Sense check for MDF wardrobe door build

[Ambush]

Hi all, looking for a sense check for my plans for some shaker style doors made from MDF.

The doors are 1747mm x 435mm so I was planning on using 18mm MR MDF for stiles/rails with a 6mm MR MDF panel. I would have 90mm wide stiles and rails with 4 rails spread equally down the length of the door (so 3 panels in total). I could increase this to 5 rails (4 panels) if this would be beneficial without negatively impacting the aesthetics I think.

I've seen a few different depths given on various forums but a lot were for the fake shaker style doors so before I get purchasing and cutting I thought it would be worthwhile asking you sensible folk.

Any help is much appreciated.

 

[TRITON]

A simpler idea is to take 12mm mdf the exact size of the door you need then overlay it in 6mm(or 18+6, or 12+9mm or whatever you want for your desired thickness.) to give you the stiles, rails etc.
The only real hassle is the edges will show the join in the boards. If you're painting them, and likely you will be, its just a matter of filling the join line in 2 pack, sanding till invisible and painting over.
This unit was done using this technique -
If you look really carefully you can see that i missed the end door filler, so the two layers are just about visible. But done correctly(unlike the way i did it ) it would be invisible.

The stained glass panels are if i remember the phases of the moon. OR it might have been the seasons, i really do forget. Either way construction was simple and the effect excellent.

 

[baldkev]

With a longish door like that, I'd be tempted to use 22mm for the stiles and rails.

I make mine with a frame and panel, but theres lots of ways to skin a cat

 

[planesleuth]

The danger is bowing and twist and that is about balance of the components. What you do to one side you must always do to the other. It's also about the quality of the board that's delivered to you and the atmospheric conditions in the home. It's also about size. Long slim doors are always at greater risk. I have always used 22mm MDF with 12mm MDF centre panels and when there is greater risk of bowing, 22mm Poplar with 12mm panels. With long slender doors I have always made two doors joined as one to halve the risk. My experience has been that MR always stands a greater risk of bowing. Plan this very carefully. If the panels/doors bow, the job's ruined.

 

[Ambush]

A simpler idea is to take 12mm mdf the exact size of the door you need then overlay it in 6mm(or 18+6, or 12+9mm or whatever you want for your desired thickness.) to give you the stiles, rails etc.
The only real hassle is the edges will show the join in the boards. If you're painting them, and likely you will be, its just a matter of filling the join line in 2 pack, sanding till invisible and painting over.
This unit was done using this technique -
If you look really carefully you can see that i missed the end door filler, so the two layers are just about visible. But done correctly(unlike the way i did it ) it would be invisible.


View attachment 129285
View attachment 129284
The stained glass panels are if i remember the phases of the moon. OR it might have been the seasons, i really do forget. Either way construction was simple and the effect excellent.

I was aware of this technique but it was more the additional weight of that style I was trying to avoid. Can you remember what thicknesses you used, size of the door and how they held up out of interest?

 

[Ambush]

With a longish door like that, I'd be tempted to use 22mm for the stiles and rails.

I make mine with a frame and panel, but theres lots of ways to skin a cat

I've tried having a search for some 22mm MR MDF and the prices are shocking, are you aware of anywhere that stocks this thickness at a reasonable price? I already got some 18mm for another job for around £45 (god doesn't that price make my head spin already), whereas anywhere that does 22mm wants nearly double that for a sheet.

 

[baldkev]

I think i paid maybe 56 plus vat in jewsons recently for 22mm, the 18mm was 42 plus vat ( this is caberwood pro, not trade ) on trade account. Its not cheap at the mo.....

 

[TRITON]

I was aware of this technique but it was more the additional weight of that style I was trying to avoid. Can you remember what thicknesses you used, size of the door and how they held up out of interest?

I think it was 12mm backing board with 9mm overlay. Hinges were 4 of the better quality kitchen cabinet style you normally see on these type of units
Certainly never heard anything back from the customer. So thats always a good sign.

Didn't have to change our number or hide the phone under a pillow

Is this for yourself or a customer ?.

 

[Ambush]

It's for myself so a DIY set up, nothing professional but I'm not terrible at woodworking so thought I'd give it a go.

 

[TRITON]

How is it you're intending to joint stiles to rails ? is it biscuits or half-laps.



Personal point of view I'd say half laps would be the strongest. MDF is a layered thing and splitting in the layers could present a problem.
Have you a bandsaw, or decent router ?.

 

[Ambush]

I was going to copy Peter Mallards method with loose tenon. I've got a bandsaw, tracksaw and a router but I'd be hard pressed to call that decent, its workable though.

 

[doctor Bob]

I'd do them in 25mm with a 9mm panel. Sometimes 22mm

 

[baldkev]

I'd do them in 25mm with a 9mm panel. Sometimes 22mm

Thats interesting, did you find the 22mm less stable?

 

[doctor Bob]

Thats interesting, did you find the 22mm less stable?

Not really, more for aesthetic reasons. I only use MR MDF

 

[petermillard]

I switched to 22mm after issues with 18mm bowing, wouldn’t use 18mm on a door of that size, personally.