Have a look at the thread on our restoration of the MB. We took a jelly bean sprocket and machined the bore out, added a key way and also machined the boss to the right size. I couldn’t find an off the shelf part that had a bore and boss size to suit. I just buy off who ever is offering the best prices at the time. If you can’t and dont have a mate who can machine them up, Sedgwick do sell them, but brace yourself they know how to charge!
Sedgwick PT255
- Thread starter Picalilli
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Picalilli
Established Member
I was looking at the thread last night and watched the machining of the sprocket. I don’t have the machinery for that and don’t know anyone who would…I guess maybe a local engineering company might give me a quote for something like that…
If it’s the case I’ll need to get them from Sedgwick I’m afraid it’ll have to wait as I’ve maxed my budget out for now… is there any detriment to using the machine with worn sprockets? Can it cause damage or is it more to do with accuracy etc?
Are the chains standard? Sorry if that seems a daft question, I’ve never dealt with a machine like this. I’m starting to worry I’ve gotten myself in too deep here!
If it’s the case I’ll need to get them from Sedgwick I’m afraid it’ll have to wait as I’ve maxed my budget out for now… is there any detriment to using the machine with worn sprockets? Can it cause damage or is it more to do with accuracy etc?
Are the chains standard? Sorry if that seems a daft question, I’ve never dealt with a machine like this. I’m starting to worry I’ve gotten myself in too deep here!
Picalilli
Established Member
Just received a quote for new sprockets from ‘R J Woodworking Machinery’ …£277.25! Still waiting to hear back from Sedgwick, I’d thought maybe a different supplier might be cheaper than them.
Yikes - really can’t afford an additional £300 right now.
Is there any harm is using the machine with worn sprockets? I mean, will it cause any harm to the actual machine (I’m not bothered about it affecting accuracy and things like that for the moment)
They also quoted £37 for a new chain, but not sure if I can get that elsewhere cheaper.
Yikes - really can’t afford an additional £300 right now.
Is there any harm is using the machine with worn sprockets? I mean, will it cause any harm to the actual machine (I’m not bothered about it affecting accuracy and things like that for the moment)
They also quoted £37 for a new chain, but not sure if I can get that elsewhere cheaper.
No harm using the machine with worn sprockets, when they get too far gone the chain will slip.
When I get the new workshop up and running, I can modify some standard sprockets for you, they won’t cost you Sedgwick prices….I said they know how to charge
. Equally there are others on here who have metal working machines, a lathe and a shaper or broaches is what they need to modify them. It might be a while yet before I can, they haven’t started building it yet!
When I get the new workshop up and running, I can modify some standard sprockets for you, they won’t cost you Sedgwick prices….I said they know how to charge
. Equally there are others on here who have metal working machines, a lathe and a shaper or broaches is what they need to modify them. It might be a while yet before I can, they haven’t started building it yet!Picalilli
Established Member
That’s really kind of you, thanks for that. I’d definitely take you up on that offer when you’re up and running!
Good to know I can just go ahead and start using the machine and getting a feel for it without starting any major overhaul.
The guy I bought it from was using it with a standard 13amp plug, but said it should really be a 16amp.
I’ve checked by garage CU and there’s space for another 16amp mcb, or not sure if I can just spur a 16amp socket from one of my existing 3 pin sockets…or is the 13amp plug fine? The garage CU is fed from a 32amp mcb in the main fuse board of the house…electricity is not my forte, as is probably obvious!
Do these need to be ran on 16amp?
Good to know I can just go ahead and start using the machine and getting a feel for it without starting any major overhaul.
The guy I bought it from was using it with a standard 13amp plug, but said it should really be a 16amp.
I’ve checked by garage CU and there’s space for another 16amp mcb, or not sure if I can just spur a 16amp socket from one of my existing 3 pin sockets…or is the 13amp plug fine? The garage CU is fed from a 32amp mcb in the main fuse board of the house…electricity is not my forte, as is probably obvious!
Do these need to be ran on 16amp?
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eribaMotters
Established Member
It should be fine on a 13amp plug, I'd leave it unless you have problems.
Colin
Colin
Mine runs fine on a 13A supply, although if I plug my shop vac into the same double socket as the PT there's an audible change in the shop vac suction frequency for a few milliseconds whilst the PT starts up, presumably due to the large inrush current.
I think if a 16A supply were required, the machine would be fitted with a blue plug with cylindrical pins.
I think if a 16A supply were required, the machine would be fitted with a blue plug with cylindrical pins.
Picalilli
Established Member
Just wondering whether anyone has any photos they can share of an original dust extraction hood for the pt255?
I’m not 100 sure how the homemade one it came with should be mounted when in use - it seems to have been split with some ply into two chutes - see photos. The chipping extraction isn’t really doing much, but wondering whether I’m just fitting the hood wrong…
My extractor might just be underpowered too - it’s the one below
https://www.axminstertools.com/axmi...dPNQWoUWy6G-NbkLd511cIG0JvufA-cMaAmwqEALw_wcB
I’m not 100 sure how the homemade one it came with should be mounted when in use - it seems to have been split with some ply into two chutes - see photos. The chipping extraction isn’t really doing much, but wondering whether I’m just fitting the hood wrong…
My extractor might just be underpowered too - it’s the one below
https://www.axminstertools.com/axmi...dPNQWoUWy6G-NbkLd511cIG0JvufA-cMaAmwqEALw_wcB
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Doug71
Established Member
Bit of a thread here showing the OEM hood but most people make do with a wooden box similar to what you have.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/sedgwick-cp-dust-hood.114862/
When planing over the top my box works best in the opposite end to where common sense tells you it should go but that's where it works best so that's where it goes, see pics below
Mine has a slot in so I can push out the shavings every so often.
This is what they used to come with before dust extraction was a thing, it would give you a nice shower of wood shavings!
And yes I would say your extractor is definitely underpowered.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/sedgwick-cp-dust-hood.114862/
When planing over the top my box works best in the opposite end to where common sense tells you it should go but that's where it works best so that's where it goes, see pics below
Mine has a slot in so I can push out the shavings every so often.
This is what they used to come with before dust extraction was a thing, it would give you a nice shower of wood shavings!
And yes I would say your extractor is definitely underpowered.
Picalilli
Established Member
Thanks for the info and photos - I did suspect the one I have is underpowered. Guess an upgrade might be in order at some point…never ending expense this hobby!
The weird thing about thicknessing is that the majority of the shavings seem to be ending up at the infeed part of the machine, they are all gathering in front of those teeth that prevent kick back (I assume this is what they do)…again, possibly just because it’s underpowered that they are ending up there?
The planing mode didn’t seem to bad to be fair, although probably just taking much less off per pass
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