Sedgwick PT255

[SLM]

Ah, engine hoist trolley is a good idea. You mean something like this?

https://www.mark1hire.co.uk/product/engine-hoist/

Yes, that’s what I used to load and unload my Dominion. It can take a bit of tooling and froing, to get the machine high enough and far enough into the vehicle, but it’s not difficult.

My lift came with a spreader bar, which makes the rigging a little easier. Also, by using sufficiently strong cargo straps in place of strops, to connect the load to the hook, gives you the ability to trim the load as needed.

 

[Picalilli]

Cheers - think that’s the way to go. Do you mean ratchet cargo straps, so you can adjust them when it’s on the hoist?

I’m planning on using a Peugeot expert which has a fairly low base so that’ll help, assume they’re not too bad to ‘shuffle’ about once in

 

[SLM]

Cheers - think that’s the way to go. Do you mean ratchet cargo straps, so you can adjust them when it’s on the hoist?

I’m planning on using a Peugeot expert which has a fairly low base so that’ll help, assume they’re not too bad to ‘shuffle’ about once in

Yes, ratchet cargo straps. You’ll need some anyway, to secure it in the van.

 

[clogs]

dont rely on the ratchet straps for hight adjustment, it will only give a few inches even on a 5 tonner.....

having done this sorta thing over the years......
I have a couple of friends over and off we trot to get said machine......
the wives turn up later depending on distance.....
whilst the men unload the machine n get it too the shed plus have a beer the women get the BBQ going.....
So it's a great day, u get help with the loading /unloading, have a laugh n a great day out.....simples....

I found this approach whilst living in the US......it was called barn raising....look it up....great fun.....
Even after all these years I can still remember their faces and the laugh's we had.....happy days....
try it some time....

 

[SLM]

dont rely on the ratchet straps for hight adjustment, it will only give a few inches even on a 5 tonner.....

having done this sorta thing over the years......
I have a couple of friends over and off we trot to get said machine......
the wives turn up later depending on distance.....
whilst the men unload the machine n get it too the shed plus have a beer the women get the BBQ going.....
So it's a great day, u get help with the loading /unloading, have a laugh n a great day out.....simples....

I found this approach whilst living in the US......it was called barn raising....look it up....great fun.....
Even after all these years I can still remember their faces and the laugh's we had.....happy days....
try it some time....

It’s that sometimes vital few inches that I use ratchet straps for. No more than that.

 

[Picalilli]

What are these clamps/guides called? I haven’t seen them much on YouTube videos of planer thicknessers, but the one I’m buying comes with them.

assume they are just to keep stock right to the fence and bed as you feed it through?

 

[Sideways]

Shaw guards. They are in the manual.
Good to have those, you won't need them often but worth a good £100+ of value.

 

[Doug71]

A great feature of the Sedgwick planers is that you can cut rebates with them, this isn't possible on most other planers.

The shaw guard is meant to be used when cutting rebates, it works as a guard and guide.

 

[Picalilli]

Ah great - this is a nice feature. The only method I have a rebating currently is an old Stanley 78, so this will be a welcome addition!

 

[MikeK]

A great feature of the Sedgwick planers is that you can cut rebates with them, this isn't possible on most other planers.

I know the U.S. version of the Powermatic planers can cut rebates, because the infeed table has a little support wing where porkchop blade guard attaches. After removing the blade guard, the fence is moved to set the height of the rebate and then the infeed table is lowered to set the depth of the first pass. The dimensions of the rebate are limited by the width of the planer blades and distance the infeed table can be lowered.

I didn't see a similar wing on the Sedgwick planer in @Picalilli's first post. How do you cut the rebate on the Sedgewick planer?

 

[Picalilli]

I’m assuming the fence just pulls forward and the part that you don’t want rebated hangs over the front of the machine supported by those shaw guards, where there is some gap between the blade and the blade guard mount? It will only rebate up to 13mm apparently…

Will be interesting to see how it works

 

[Doug71]

@MikeK the Sedgwicks don't have the support wing like the Powermatic but the infeed table is wider than the cutter block to give a bit of extra support if that makes sense. I used to cut rebates on my old Wadkin where both in and out feed tables were the same width as the block and unless the rebate was very narrow or the wood very thin you could normally manage it by just keeping plenty of pressure against the fence.

I don't know if it's health and safety or just easier/cheaper to build a planer without this feature but these days not many have it. I don't rebate on my planer very often as the Spindle Moulder makes a better job but for the odd quick cut the planer is very handy.

The stepped tables on my Sedgwick

 

[MikeK]

Thanks, @Doug71! The photo answers my question perfectly. My SCM P/T has the Euro style guard and the tables are the same width. The chassis is flush with the top of the tables at their highest setting, so I can't use it like your Wadkin.

 

[SLM]

I know the U.S. version of the Powermatic planers can cut rebates, because the infeed table has a little support wing where porkchop blade guard attaches. After removing the blade guard, the fence is moved to set the height of the rebate and then the infeed table is lowered to set the depth of the first pass. The dimensions of the rebate are limited by the width of the planer blades and distance the infeed table can be lowered.

I didn't see a similar wing on the Sedgwick planer in @Picalilli's first post. How do you cut the rebate on the Sedgewick planer?

Should anyone be reading this, with a view to choosing a P/T with the ability to cut rebates, my Dominion ES (12x7”) also has this feature.

 

[Picalilli]

Going to collect this today with a van.

What’s the advice on the best way to secure this for transit? Lay it down flat or keep it upright and strapped to the side?

I have plenty of ratchet straps and two big timbers to use for lifting via thicknesser section.

 

[Sideways]

Upright, strapped. If you can pull it tight to the bulkhead behind the seats that it the best place. It won't become a missile if you have to make an emergency stop.

 

[Picalilli]

Successfully collected!

I need to sort out some kind of castor base to move it around the workshop though, needs to be my next priority.

I have a few questions that someone might help me with:

should the thicknesser feed control lever always be in the disengaged position when using in planer mode?

Is the shaving collection always a bit hit and miss or is this down the the homemade collection chute? There are quite a few shavings just sitting above the extraction chute even after planing a few passes, is this just to be expected or have I positioned it incorrectly? I’ve posted some photos.

I’ve also posted some photographs of the gears, sprockets and chain. I’m not really sure what I’m looking for but they seem in reasonable condition?

Also, I’ve noticed a very faint burning smell, kind of like an engine that is low on oil, after running some timbers through. It seems to be coming from where the blades are, but only very faint. Could this just be usual for a machine of its age, or just need some general maintenance to resolve?

Any advice gladly received!

 

[Doug71]

The dust extraction from my Sedgwick MB isn't great, I don't think old machines were designed with it in mind.

Mine has a homemade dust chute similar to yours, I've tried a few different variations and none have worked as well as I would like. My chute has a hole in the back to let some air in (as you need some air going into it) but also so I can occasionally poke a stick through the back to push any stuck wood shavings down the extraction pipe. When planing over the top I found mine actually extracts better when the extractor is fitted to the opposite end to what you think it should be I will try and post a photo tomorrow as that probably makes no sense at all

I could also do with a bigger extractor, I'm sure that would help!

 

[deema]

Doug summarised it, they arnt great even with the OE shoot.
The chain and sprockets need changing, they have served a long and fruitful life and now need a replacing. The sprockets are ‘sharp’ which is why they are worn out, so when replacing them, always best practice to replace the chain. Have a measure, you might be lucky, they might be a jelly bean part. I can say for certain the MB are not, but haven’t had to replace a set in the PT. However, I would assume they are the same part as the MB. This would make sense to keep manufacturing costs down by communising parts across the range.

 

[Picalilli]

thanks for the advice - if the sprockets aren't standard sizes does that mean ordering direct from sedgwick? Are they expensive parts?

do you have any recommendations of suppliers of parts like sprockets and chains?