Sedgwick or axminster?

[Jamied]

Hi all,
In a nice dilemma.
I can keep my existing sedgwick 315 with sliding table( but space does not allow me to set up sliding table much) with annoying dodgy fence, but i could add a sexy looking incra fence. I could remove the right hand extension table and fit in my axminster cast top router table with the incra going right across.
Or I could not mess about and sell my current set up and buy the complete axminster ts254ts with router table inbuilt.
Just a bit concerned about it being a cheap China short term tool.
Am I best sticking with my robust sedgwick.
I'd also like a mitre gauge groove but my current sedgwick does not have this.
Thoughts please.....

 

[DBT85]

I would find a way to make the Sedgwick do what you want.

Don't have to spend massive on a better fence. @Steve Maskery has a video on making your own proper fence with no welding involved.

The mitre gauge bit is different of course

 

[Doug71]

Just wondering what is dodgy about the fence?

 

[Jamied]

Thanks for the quick reply,
The sedgwick is my gut feeling too,

 

[Jamied]

The locking mechanism is unpredictable.
8 times out of ten its fine. But sometimes it slips away as I push my stock through, really annoying! I've tried to solve it but it keeps happening. I've been quoted a small fortune for a new fence, thats why I am considering the incra system.

 

[Ttrees]

I'd love to know what the issues with the fence is, looks like a good design to me.
Could there be a part like a gib missing?

 

[Jamied]

Nothing seems to be missing, I've had the saw about ten years, its like a cam system, but sometimes it does not lock correctly, feels fine but starts to slip when putting a batch of cuts through.

 

[Sideways]

Look at the size of the trunnion on your TA315

Now ask yourself if any of Axminsters made in China stuff comes anywhere close to this standard....

The TA315 isn't perfect but it is solid, rigid and simple. Everything that matters long term.

Why not try making something that can bolt on along the left edge of the table and install a T track mitre slot into that? Think of it as proof of concept to help you design a better 2nd generation one.

 

[Ttrees]

That's a seriously hefty part, my Startrite is nowhere near as well built.

I tried to find a video of the saw, as I can't get good pictures of it.
Found this scary video, crikey!

 

[Sideways]

Aghast !

 

[Jamied]

Thats a really good idea! Thanks, I have spare t track from a previous mitre saw bench.
My saw is very solid and reliable and I'm happy with it other than the fence, so maybe the incra saw fence wrapped around my router table on the right saving space in the workshop.

 

[LJM]

If you do go for the incra fence, I’d be interested in your old fence; I’m in the process of messing about with different fences on my saw, and although yours is imperfect, it would give me sense of that style of fence.

 

[Jamied]

I appreciate the offer, but I would keep the old fence in case I sell the saw later but keep the incra. And I'm still not sure what I'm going to do yet. But thanks

 

[LJM]

I appreciate the offer, but I would keep the old fence in case I sell the saw later but keep the incra. And I'm still not sure what I'm going to do yet. But thanks

No problemo.

+1 for work with what you have.

I’m actually in the process of making a Frankensaw to suit my needs and space, based on a Startrite TA machine, with an SCM slider (nice and compact, folds down) supported by Sedgwick parts. The fence is to be decided, and I’ll probably fabric an out feed with rollers.

I’m sure you can tweak your saw in a similar way.

 

[Sideways]

If your spare T track isn't the right size, Axy do a UJK version that is dovetailed on the outside profile so it can be tightly fitted into a length of stable hardwood, and is the width of a standard mitre slot. It's not that expensive when you only need a couple of feet.

When I bought my own table saw secondhand, the cabinetmaker who owned it before me had fitted a nice extension to width of the the sliding table made of 2" beech staves. I chose not to keep it at the time but it was very solid and there was a lot about it that I liked. I've no problem with wooden add-ons to a cast iron machine.

I'll also thrown these two pictures in. The only ones I have of the underside of the TA315 fence clamp. All cams wear over time and I would expect it to need cleaning and adjusting every few years to keep it just right. Too slack and you can go over the top of the cam if you push the lever hard. Too tight, and the cam engages early and doesn't really lock. You are on a steep part of the wedging action and the cam can vibrate loose.
To me perfect is when everything locks up really tight and stops with (say) an inch of travel to go at the end of the lever before it goes over the top of the cam.

Pull your fence bracket off, have a look, give it a clean and hopefully it will be easy to see how to adjust the action and solve the unreliability

Notice the neat little roller at the end of the bracket. Stops the casting scraping across the top of the table as you move it left and right. I can't remember but that might be on an eccentric fixing so that you can tweak the clearance above the table to just enough and no more - and correct for any wear in the roller over time.

 

[Jamied]

Good advice thanks,
I have had a few goes at the fence but to no avail, but maybe another try would be helpful.
It does seem everyone is in agreement to keep the sedgwick , no endorsements for the axminster.

 

[DBT85]

Good advice thanks,
I have had a few goes at the fence but to no avail, but maybe another try would be helpful.
It does seem everyone is in agreement to keep the sedgwick , no endorsements for the axminster.

I thnk there would be plenty of support if you had a site saw or something and wanted to get the axi. But not in the direction you were thinking! The Axi is perfectly fine but you own something of a much higher standard.

 

[Spectric]

If I was younger and setting up a larger workshop I would buy only decent iron machines like Sedgwick and do my utmost to avoid all rebranded asian clones of this and that like Axminster and the rest. Looking at that Axminster you quoted, be interesting to know how they are managing to sell one that can allow the use of a dado cutting stack, I thought in this country they were very much frowned upon and they even class it as trade.

 

[DBT85]

If I was younger and setting up a larger workshop I would buy only decent iron machines like Sedgwick and do my utmost to avoid all rebranded asian clones of this and that like Axminster and the rest. Looking at that Axminster you quoted, be interesting to know how they are managing to sell one that can allow the use of a dado cutting stack, I thought in this country they were very much frowned upon and they even class it as trade.

As long as it stops fast enough and is correctly guarded there's no reason you can't use them even in production shops.

It's easy enough to want to only buy quality iron machines, but there are often issues that get in the way of that. Might be availability, required maintenance or restoration taking up valuable time, etc. It's nice to just have a tool rock up and after initial setup just work without needing or probably wanting a bit of love. The cheaper axi stuff which all appear very similar to the SIPs and itechs of this world will all still be running fine in a few decades. One thing they don't have are things like cabinet mounted trunnions and instead they hang a very heavy mount and motor from the table itself.

The AT254TS mentioned does in fact have proper trunnions which appear to be cast iron. However, I'm not sure what the saw offers for £3200 over something like a Laguna F3 for £1100 less.

Interestingly @Nick Laguna UK I know you have a note on your site about dado sets but you don't mention IIRC whether the saw can actually take one. I assume it can as I'd be surprised for them to manufacture a new arbour just for the EU market when there's nothing actually illegal about using one. Given that Axi are selling this with one prominently in the advertising (though not included) will you guys be changing your stance at all?

 

[Cabinetman]

My Sedgwick T315 has the cam handle lock and it also has a knob which you can turn to lock the fence and in that position you can turn another knurled knob for micro adjustment of the fence, does yours not have that those two extra bits?
I will take some pictures in the morning and put them on. The extra knob is a very simple threaded bar through the front of the casting and it then bears onto the main bar/rod that the fence slides up and down on, it would be very simple to drill and thread that casting to add a knob. Ian
Ps, on no account whatsoever swap it for an Axminster!
Pps, I know what you mean about it taking up a lot of room, I quite often have to spin it on its axis if I am crosscutting long pieces but it does come equipped with some very nice long handles ha ha