Second project - trinket box

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simdel1":1rxt0tqp said:
Got it clamped up after work today. Fingers crossed!

dsc01365a.jpg

Are you a mechanical engineer per chance?

Aidan
 
AndyT":2d7gnlfi said:
It's always nice to see someone finding ingenious solutions to problems when working with a few basic tools. Well done!

Thanks, Andy. It's been a lot of fun trying to figure out how to do these things with my limited selction of tools. I do find myself flicking through the machine mart catalogue dreaming about table saws and bench drills though!



TheTiddles":2d7gnlfi said:
Are you a mechanical engineer per chance?

Aidan

I certainly am. I only graduated a couple of years ago so I'm not an expert in anything yet!

I am finding the woodworking to be a welcome break from my day job though. It's almost theraputic going into the garage to cut some wood after spending a day chasing after diesel engines.
 
simdel1":lbgkugh4 said:
After shaving the hinge area smooth (still using the knife!) I drilled some pilot holes and fitted the hinges to the main body of the box.
dsc01391mq.jpg

I like the box, very clean lines and neat joints. If you want to make the hinges a bit special, buff them up with a couple of grades of wet and dry sand paper, and then some Autosol or Brasso on a rag. Do the same for the screws. That will make standard hinges pretty special without taking much time and without any outlay for extra tools
 
simdel1":go9fyf1z said:
AndyT":go9fyf1z said:
It's always nice to see someone finding ingenious solutions to problems when working with a few basic tools. Well done!

It's almost theraputic going into the garage to cut some wood after spending a day chasing after diesel engines.

The thoughts of someone who has caught the bug? I think so.

Congratulations. You're a Woodworker!

Nice work, and keep going.

Regards
John :D
 
RussianRouter":950d3f7d said:
Hi simdel1

Nice work for an ametuer,however forgive me if I correct something but...those hinges are the wrong way round,does the lid close flat at the back or is there a gap between lid and lower box?

Looks like they are assembled correct way, but IMO this butt-hinge type is not so good for boxes as it leaves gap between lid and chassis. These are mentionet to be used more or less cabinet doors etc.

For boxes it's better use hinges, which "screwplates" are attached middle (90 degrees related) to hinge "barrel" instead of lower edge. In other words, unattached box hinge should not lay flat (when opened) on table or other flat surface...

I have made this very same mistake with box hinges many times it the past... :oops:

Btw, nice box simtel1! Keep it up! :)
 
Another tip simdel1

I noticed you cut and mitred the sides then rebated the wood.

To save time and get the rebates the same depth,always rebate the length of the wood first then cut and mitre the four box sections.

:)
 
simdel1[quote="TheTiddles":je42om1e said:
Are you a mechanical engineer per chance?

Aidan

I certainly am. I only graduated a couple of years ago so I'm not an expert in anything yet!

I am finding the woodworking to be a welcome break from my day job though. It's almost theraputic going into the garage to cut some wood after spending a day chasing after diesel engines.[/quote]

Yep, different area, same therapy.

Aidan
 
frugal":xvevglo9 said:
If you want to make the hinges a bit special, buff them up with a couple of grades of wet and dry sand paper, and then some Autosol or Brasso on a rag. Do the same for the screws. That will make standard hinges pretty special without taking much time and without any outlay for extra tools

Thanks for the tip! Those screws will need a lot of work though. They are very poor quality. I'll post up some pics of the results.



RussianRouter":xvevglo9 said:
Edited: My apologies they're the right way round,just badly made hinges and nothing to do with simdel1's work.

Yes, these are very badly made hinges! You might find it hard to believe, but I actually went thorough the entire selection of hinges on the shelf trying to get a pair that matched in terms of surface finish, hole location and counter-sink depth. That's what I get for buying hardware from wilkinsons! As this is only a 'practice' piece, I dont mind having rubbish hinges though.

Chems":xvevglo9 said:
those hinges look so neat

Thanks! I have only shown the best one though. One of the hinges on the lid is very bad. I must have moved the work piece part way through marking up because the recess is about 1-2mm too wide for the hinge. I'll probably try to build that edge back up with wood filler.

Einari Rystykaemmen":xvevglo9 said:
this butt-hinge type is not so good for boxes as it leaves gap between lid and chassis

Yes, the hinge would ordinarilly leave about a 2mm gap between the base and the lid. However, I have deliberately cut the recess for the hinges about 1mm too deep to allow the lid to sit flush to the base. It's not exactly ideal.



Thanks for all the comments and advice, guys. It's definitely helping me improve my skills :D
 
simdel1":3h032hrn said:
I'll probably try to build that edge back up with wood filler.

You'd be surprised how well you can get a little piece to fill that in. Pair a small slither of some scrap and keep working it till it fits your gap, ad a little glue and force it in, best to a very tight fit. Sand it back and it will be almost invisible. Wood filler never works, specially as it doesn't stain and making little filler bits is a great skill to acquire as its very hand for filling errors.
 
Thanks Chems. I'll give that a go.

I spent a couple of hours tweeking the hinges yesterday to that the lid would sit square and flush to the base. I'm very pleased with the results. I haven't trimmed the grain end of the lid yet. I was waiting until I'd got the front edge lined up before I cut the ends to match the base.

dsc01399ii.jpg


I also had a go at polishing the hinges and the screw heads. I went through various grades of sand paper and wet-and-dry until i got to this stage. They still need a good going over with brasso, but i'm quite pleased. (aplologies for the poor photo!)

dsc01398b.jpg
 
You're getting there simdel1 :wink:

If you have a bench drill? or a stand for a normal drill always pilot drill the holes in the hinge recess as this gives a clean straight hole and the screws go in perfect ie the hole acts as a guide,then you won't have wonky screwheads.

Position the hinge where you want it,holdfimand draw the holes with a pencil,then drill as above.

Use the very smallest bit or a nail will suffice.

Another way is to cut a small piece of thin oblong perspex and cut a small channel in it ie like the spacing on a tuning fork about the shank size of a 1/16" drill bit,position this perspex and the gap over the hole so that it rest on the wood side,plop a screw in the perspex channel and start scewing it home making sure to keep the screwdriver more or less upright all the time,slide out the perspex and finih the screwing..

Reason for perspex soyou can see whats going on.


The gap I mean,but not so wide the screws will fall through.

http://www.healthclinic.net.au/images/T ... k659Hz.jpg
 
simdel1":1jcw4bgl said:
RussianRouter":1jcw4bgl said:
Edited: My apologies they're the right way round,just badly made hinges and nothing to do with simdel1's work.

Yes, these are very badly made hinges! You might find it hard to believe, but I actually went thorough the entire selection of hinges on the shelf trying to get a pair that matched in terms of surface finish, hole location and counter-sink depth. That's what I get for buying hardware from wilkinsons! As this is only a 'practice' piece, I dont mind having rubbish hinges though.

I do not find that hard to believe at all, Wilkinson, B&Q etc will only sell pressed hinges where the metal is folded over the hinge pin. If you want the next level up you need to look at drawn brass hinges like these but they are going to be about £7 a pair.
 

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