Scribing to a stone wall

[Adam W.]

I have a Gransfors small carpenters axe with a very straight and thin edge, more like a very wide chisel.

 

[jcassidy]

I think this kindling axe is designed more for the lay-man, wide blade so easier to hit the target

Spear & Jackson no.4 hatchet? Something you might see Ray Mears mucking about with. (Seriously off topic now, so we are).

 

[Jacob]

What's the difference between an axe and a hatchet?

 

[jcassidy]

What's the difference between an axe and a hatchet?

They're spelt different.

 

[Adam W.]

A hatchet is designed for single handed use.

 

[TRITON]

My "joiners" axe here. Spear & Jackson. Weighs about 1.5 lbs. Not sure what the 1/4 stands for.

Official MSC issue about 1982.
Sharpened freehand on coarse side of a Norton No. "0" oil stone. There's a bit of a knack to sharpening but once you've got it it's easy. Ends up with a deeply hollowed stone, which is no problem.

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I never thought I'd find myself admiring another man's chopper

 

[hikingcharlotte]

Following this thread, would you then fill any gaps where the wood doesnt fit snuggly - and what type of filler would you use?

 

[Jacob]

Following this thread, would you then fill any gaps where the wood doesnt fit snuggly - and what type of filler would you use?

Probably look a lot nicer if you get a scribe as near as you can and leave it at that. Filler more likely to highlight probs than hide them. Depends on the details.

 

[mikej460]

I'm installing new kitchen units with solid block beech worktops into our utility room which is a converted galley kitchen built in the 19th Century as a 'modernisation' i.e. built using ironstone stuck on the back of the 300-year-old stone cottage. There isn't a straight wall or right angle in it, so I have had to scribe every unit, side panel and two worktops. I bought a Saker Scriber which has been a godsend for the worktops and units.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09W8RC9FP/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item
I needed infills to fill in gaps in three end panels where the wall was bowed beyond the width of the panels, and this was a bit trickier and needed several re-scribes as outlined above by others. I have to say that the scriber has been excellent but there are many other cheaper techniques. The two worktops came out well but note the gap in the end panel - it looks straight in the picture but is as wobbly as they come and then other side is much worse, up to 30mm gap.

Have a look at @petermillard excellent videos on the subject


hope this is useful

 

[AJB Temple]

I'm surprised that some trades people here (exc. Jacob) have never seen a carpenters axe on site. Nor an adze. I have a really old and well used granfors axe, which was given to me as a "framing axe" of "rigging axe" along with a small adze by a guy who used to do a lot of oak framing. Extremely useful when you are erecting a green oak frame and need to do a bit of trimming without getting down from the structure. The rigging axe is lightweight and small, and has gradually acquired an offset bevel. I always have it to hand when doing green oak work. The adze is fantastic for stropping off bark, for doing scallop cuts and trimming up curves.

I can understand that anyone doing softwood roofing would be bemused though.

 

[rogxwhit]

I used it most often for scribing inside linings of sash windows during restoration work - they need to be a good fit for plastering.

Not quite the same thing though - which you'd know if you stopped to think - in that case all the discrepancies will be hidden by the plaster as it's run up to the work. I sense that in the current case the whole face of the scribe will be visible. And I think it's been dealt with above how to deal with it. You scribe from the stonework in the plane of where the outer face of the work is going to be, and cut that as precisely as you can, then undercut behind that plane as appropriate.

What tools you use are up to you - it's only the result that counts.

 

[rogxwhit]

Extremely useful when you are erecting a green oak frame

That doesn't relate to the current enquiry - you're spouting off.

 

[rogxwhit]

then a block plane etc.

What on earth has a block plane to do with scribing to stonework?

 

[Jacob]

Not quite the same thing though - which you'd know if you stopped to think - in that case all the discrepancies will be hidden by the plaster as it's run up to the work. I sense that in the current case the whole face of the scribe will be visible. And I think it's been dealt with above how to deal with it. You scribe from the stonework in the plane of where the outer face of the work is going to be, and cut that as precisely as you can, then undercut behind that plane as appropriate.

What tools you use are up to you - it's only the result that counts.

It is the same thing but not covered by plaster, as I describe above.

What on earth has a block plane to do with scribing?

Quite handy following on from the axe. Use it with the workpiece on a saw stool with your knee on it and use the plane down across the edge. Just one of those things you might discover if you do enough site work.

 

[AJB Temple]

That doesn't relate to the current enquiry - you're spouting off.

I am deeply sorry and apologise profusely. I have not been called a spout before but shall quickly turn myself off as offending people like you is heart wrenching. The thread had turned in a axe direction as OP had solved his problem but I am mortified that I had not understood that you wanted to keep talking about scribing. It should be forbidden to deviate even slightly from the original topic. But thank you for your expertise and constructive contribution. Oh yes.

 

[rogxwhit]

Quite handy following on from the axe. Use it with the workpiece on a saw stool with your knee on it and use the plane down across the edge. Just one of those things you might discover if you do enough site work.

Good for the highs - not much use in the hollows ... ps I could do without the news about your knees :-(. Or your stools :-(((.

OP had solved his problem

Had he? I missed that. :-(

I have not been called a spout before

There's a first, then!

 

[Jacob]

Good for the highs - not much use in the hollows ... ;-)

Yes. Well spotted. Congratulations.
A cambered blade helps.

 

[rogxwhit]

A cambered blade helps.

Of course! That's the default, isn't it?

 

[mark w]

I use a pair of compasses to scribe a line and then cut to the line with a fine jigsaw blade, Quick and easy.