Scribing plaster coving

[Woodchips2]

I am putting a floor to ceiling cupboard in a room with plaster coving and wonder if there is an easy way to scribe the new coving to form an internal angle with the existing other than temporarily fixing it in position.

I tried the same method I've used for timber skirtings ie cut a 45 degree angle and trim the profile with a fine saw, but that didn't work :roll:

Regards Keith

 

[AndyT]

Assuming you are talking about fixing a length of pre-made solid plaster, I am pretty sure the answer is to use mitres on the internal and the external corners. Plaster does not shrink and expand like wood does so the joints should all stay put and there is no need for scribing. (The fit can be 'improved' with polyfilla if necessary!)

 

[Ring]

I use these if its just plain coving.... http://www.british-gypsum.com/~/media/F ... mplate.pdf
Jim

 

[jasonB]

Must be your scribing tecnique. I have added a bit to existing cove several times usually when fitting cupboards to alcoves and just cut a mitre and then coping saw to the edge of the mitre. Don't use the jigs and templates to cut the guide mitre do it as you would timber with the moulding held as it will go on the wall not laid flat.

The templates and jigs are OK for fitting new where the internal corner is mitred but no good when butting new part way along an existing run

 

[Woodchips2]

Thanks Andy, Jim & jasonB for your input. It's true the standard Gypsum mitre box doesn't work when you are trying to butt joint partway along an existing run.

Regards Keith

 

[Otto]

Could it be off because of the 'spring angle'?

 

[Woodchips2]

Got the hang of this today :lol:

Cut a mitre in the Gypsum box as if doing a normal internal angle ie wall edge of the coving at the front of the box. The mitre then need relieving at the back which you could do with a coping saw but I just planed it off with a Surform until you get a good fit. Simples (hammer)

Regards Keith

 

[mailee]

I did one using the same method recently, but I was lucky enough to have corner pieces to go over the mitres so they didn't have to be that critical.