Screws snapped inside blank

[Making Shavings]

Oooops.
Used some 1.5" goldstar screws (screwfix own brand) to fix on a faceplate into some Laburnum. The plan was to finish it as a platter on stand, o-gee(?) undercut.
Turned the outside of the piece just fine, removed it from the lathe to fix on a chuck.
Used the drill/driver to remove the screws (same one I put them in with).
2 screws came out fine, no problem.
2 other snapped inside the piece, leaving an inch inside from each one.
Lesson learned- use better quality screws.

However, what's best to do so I don't ruin my tools with a catch on the screws buried inside?
Drill them out with metal drill bit? Large (50mm) Forstner bit down the centre of the piece, then undercut outwards (below the screw tip), then cut down the inside edge? Fill the holes and turn the inside into something else (nutcracker, clock, sun dial etc)
Bin the piece, learn from the experience and move on?
(it owes me nothing except maybe 20 minutes labour)

 

[Lons]

Screwfix goldscrews are brittle, I've snapped a few in the past using a driver in hardwoods so these days I always dip them in wax if I know they're to be removed later.
I don't use them on lathe work.
I'd use a plug cutter if you have one to remove the screw then plug the hole or if the screw body is thick enough, drill the centre and use an extractor to get it out, I think you'll find the screws pretty hard to drill though.

If the screws are evenly spaced, which they should be, why not drill them all and insert contrasting plugs to make them a feature?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You've turned the bottom first? I assume you have depth enough to play with, otherwise you wouldn't have used screws that long? Use a parting tool (of the trad. pattern, not the deep slim one) and cut a groove to the depth of the screw a few mill inboard of the screws and another to the same depth outboard. This will leave you a ring of mostly short grained wood to crack out with a large screwdriver or something, the broken screws being in the scrap you break away.

 

[Making Shavings]

2 great suggestions there, thank you.
Never used a plug cutter. Like the idea of that.
*scuttles off to google*

 

[Dalboy]

You've turned the bottom first? I assume you have depth enough to play with, otherwise you wouldn't have used screws that long? Use a parting tool (of the trad. pattern, not the deep slim one) and cut a groove to the depth of the screw a few mill inboard of the screws and another to the same depth outboard. This will leave you a ring of mostly short grained wood to crack out with a large screwdriver or something, the broken screws being in the scrap you break away.

This is exactly what I did when I broke off a screw

 

[Lazurus]

You cant beat a good pair of mole grips when you have reveled the screw shank!

 

[Making Shavings]

Went for option 2, parting tool method.
Plug cutters on back-order.
Thanks for all your suggestions everybody
(hopefully adding the image works)

 

[dickm]

Glad you got it sorted. For next time(!) you could always make an adequate plug cutter by forming saw teeth on the end of an appropriately sized metal tube.

 

[Lons]

you could always make an adequate plug cutter by forming saw teeth on the end of an appropriately sized metal tube.

You can buy very cheap kits now **** with several sizes for less than a tenner. Not top quality but pretty good for light use. Hardly seems worth the effort of making them.
Bob

 

[Happy amateur]

Would it not be simpler to use proper screws or even with pilot holes

Fred Taylor
orchard-woodturners.org.uk

 

[Making Shavings]

That was with pilot holes. Totally agree about 'proper' screws though- lesson learned *sits in corner, sulking*

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Curiosity - did you put them in with an impact driver? If I do large pieces, I'd sooner use eight shorter screws than four long ones.

 

[woodfarmer]

These days I have invested in some stainless steel coach bolts, having had a few screws break trying to get them out of oak after resting there for some time. Heads 10mm shanks screw cut like a woodscrew about 5mm diameter. ie the biggest that would fit the face plates although there is nothing wrong with drilling out the faceplate holes a bit bigger

 

[Making Shavings]

Curiosity - did you put them in with an impact driver? If I do large pieces, I'd sooner use eight shorter screws than four long ones.

Nope, drilled a pilot hole, then just the same drill, with a screwdriver head on it.
I usually use short screws too, but the weight of the blank made me think hmmm, and used longer ones on this occasion.

 

[Lazurus]

On all my faceplates I have drilled additional holes and can have as many shorter screws as I need, on large pieces it is coach bolts with impact driver plus a few screws, but as all have said good quality screws are a must.

 

[dickm]

You can buy very cheap kits now **** with several sizes for less than a tenner. Not top quality but pretty good for light use. Hardly seems worth the effort of making them.
Bob

Bob, you just don't recognise the depth of my cheapskatery! But there was actually a more sensible reason for suggesting something roughed out of tube, which is depth of cut. All my plug cutters have very limited depth of cut, which might not be enough to get down to the end of the broken screws.

 

[Lons]

You can buy very cheap kits now **** with several sizes for less than a tenner. Not top quality but pretty good for light use. Hardly seems worth the effort of making them.
Bob

Bob, you just don't recognise the depth of my cheapskatery! But there was actually a more sensible reason for suggesting something roughed out of tube, which is depth of cut. All my plug cutters have very limited depth of cut, which might not be enough to get down to the end of the broken screws.

Cheapskatery is a great word, I love it and can identify with that as well I get great satisfaction from making or repairing something for next to nothing, if you saw the junk, ( wifies words, I say treasure) that I have saved I'm sure you'd approve. :lol: