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Corneel":37ey837n said:
Indeed, firearms are a no go area overhere.

I watched some youtube video of some Belgium firearm smiths who made damascus riffles almost a hundred years ago. The level of craftsmanship of those guys completely baffles me. With the advance of technology a lot of handskills have gone through the drain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa9dlvRDuQU

I don't know if any of the current smiths at williamsburg can make a rifle from flat wrought, but George's other journeymen, Jon, is able to do it. I think the result is an older pattern rifle that costs about $40,000, though.

I know the few guns George had made, he made because he wanted to, but one or two of them he made completely by hand minus folding a barrel together from flat stock (he made the lock and springs, etc, and I would assume that means he made period appropriate screws - which is why this reminds me of that).

I had a question about one of the pistols he had made (centuries old style, of course, not new "scary looking" type), and he sold it to one of the Du Ponts (!!).
 
Sheffield Tony":3r9mqew6 said:
Cheshirechappie":3r9mqew6 said:
to me, seeing a set of slotted screws nipped up so that their slots align the same way speaks of a level of care and craftsmanship.

I shall confess up front, I am an Engineer.

Seeing screws all neatly clocked in the same orientation speaks to me of style over function. A screw is in the right orientation when it is at the correct torque / tightness. If you insist on lining them all up, especially with brass screws, snapped screws are a risk you run. IMHO as an engineer.
.

You can overcome this by marking the direction of the slot when you start the screw (e.g. 6o'clock), then tightening the screw and noting the finished position (e.g. 4o'clock). If you want the screw slot to finish at 12 o'clock then reverse the screw out and begin driving it at 2o'clock. Then you can repeat all your other screws at 2o'clock and you'll have a nice set of lined up slots.
 
Another method of ensuring screws line up is to use the old-fashioned brace-type countersink. Drive the screw home, note the misalignment, remove the screw, countersink lightly, replace screw. Quite a bit of faff, and only for the very finest work.

The old countersinks used to be much more important in the 19th century than more recently. Standardisation of screw sizes didn't really happen until the early 20th century (I think), and fittings and brassware was often supplied with holes imperfectly sized and countersunk. It was therefore necessary for a craftsman to trim up his fittings with reamers and countersinks so that the screws fitted. The old brace bit sets always had a set of rimers (reamers) and countersinks of three types - flat (and quite hard) for iron fittings, rose for brass and snail for wood; often two sizes of each. There were three types of reamer, too - square for iron, half-round for brass and a sort of tapered gouge shape for wood. They all crop up quite regularly secondhand, and sell for peanuts because nobody needs them these days.

On brass screws, I think these didn't exist until about the middle of the 19th century. The reason being - as with tube for chisel handle ferrules - that drawn brass was not available, and cast brass was brittle and inconsistent (anybody who's fiddled with old saws having the split-nut fittings will be familiar with this); consequently, it was usual to use wrought iron screws to hold brass fittings in the first half of the 19th century. I think Derek Jones wrote something about this in F&C a few months ago, but I can't find it now. (Clock and instrument makers used cast brass for things like clock plates, but they hammered the blazes out of it to 'close the pores of the metal' and work-harden it - possible for screw blanks, but expensive if you've got thousands of them to make).

Edit to add - Found the Derek Jones reference - Furniture and Cabinetmaking issue 213, winter 2013, and follow-up editorial and letter in F&C 215 (Feb 2014) and 216 (March 2014).
 
Cheshirechappie said:
Something that I have tried - and it does make a significant difference - is a small smear of petroleum jelly on the thread of the screw before driving it. It can also help with the problem of rusting-in, too; I had to remove some steel screws I'd put into the garden gate hinges years ago, and they came out with no bother at all, and still quite bright. Another old trick used donkey's years ago was to keep a bar of soap in your pocket, and apply a smear before driving the screw.

Years ago, I was advised to rib a little soap on the thread of a woodscrew before driving it.

I've now discovered SCREW-WAX [sp?] and a little on the first couple of thread turns makes the screw VERY easy to drive.

I've also discovered TORX screws which drive far better than Pozi. They are easily obtained in the United Kingdom - unlike Robertson “Square” screws. When I need a new box of screws, I'll always buy Torx now.

Finally, I needed some round head Black Japanned screws a few months ago - can anybody tell me why they are NOT easily available in Torx or even Pozi head?

MC
 
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