Scoring blade info required.

[Richardsth]

Evening all,

I’ve finally got to grips with my old Guillet Panel saw and I’m trying to get my head around how to setup the scoring blade or how it should operate. First off, how high should it sit? And secondly. I have read conflicting information as to the width of the cut. My scoring blade is thinner than the main blade, yet some sites indicate that the kerf should be wider than the main blade? how can that be? Do I need to change my main or scoring blade to match? Or should one be wider than the other.

i did notice that mine was lowered below the table, so perhaps it was never used In its current confirmation.

cheers Rik

 

[Sideways]

Does your scoring blade have trapezoidal teeth ? The higher you raise it the wider the kerf at the bottom surface.
Is the scoring blade split ? You put shims between the two halves to adjust the width of the scoring kerf to match the kerf of the main blade.

 

[deema]

There are two types of scoring blade, the first is conical, the higher you raise it the wider the cut, you raise it such that it cuts the same width as the main blade. The second has two blades seperated usually by shims. You add shims to get the width of cut the same as the main blade. I’m not aware of any height guidance other than it needs to cut enough to stop breakout by the main blade. I just wind my up to the top!

 

[PassionforWood]

The scribe blade should be very slightly wider than the main blade. If it isn’t, the main blade will chip out on the bottom surface. The height of the scribe really should be 2-3mm, but it does depend on the size of the board you are cutting and whether you are able to hold the board down flat. Ie if it is a long cut and you are trimming the edge of the board first, it can be quite difficult to keep flat depending on what support you have to hold the sheet up and flat to the table.
Hope this helps

 

[Richardsth]

There are two types of scoring blade, the first is conical, the higher you raise it the wider the cut, you raise it such that it cuts the same width as the main blade. The second has two blades seperated usually by shims. You add shims to get the width of cut the same as the main blade. I’m not aware of any height guidance other than it needs to cut enough to stop breakout by the main blade. I just wind my up to the top!

I never checked the teeth, but that does make sense. The higher it's raised, the wider the cut, it's definitely a single blade, so I suspect that's what it is. I'll check tomorrow and do some test cuts when I'm back in the workshop.

Cheers

 

[Richardsth]

I never checked the teeth, but that does make sense. The higher it's raised, the wider the cut, it's definitely a single blade, so I suspect that's what it is. I'll check tomorrow and do some test cuts when I'm back in the workshop.

Cheers

Thanks for all the info. Here's what my blade looks like.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Thanks for all the info. Here's what my blade looks like.

That's a split scoring blade. The kerf width is constant so it doesn't make sense to me that raising the scoring saw appears to give you a wider kerf. Adjustment of the kerf width is via the addition or removal of manufacture supplied shims between the plates - the shims are an integral part of scoring blade package when bought new. Slainte.

 

[niall Y]

I stopped bothering with the scoring blade on my saw when I came across triple tooth blades. They minimise break-out to such an extent that I found that in most instances it wasn't worth the aggravation of setting up the scoring blade.

 

[mark w]

Are the teeth damaged? I haven't seen a scoring blade with teeth like that.

 

[deema]

The blade needs a lot of attention, the carbide is chipped to hell. Probably cheaper to get a new blade. The blade that you have is the shimmed variety