Scheppach Basato 4 Bandsaw

[artanddecco]

I am considering the above bandsaw for resawing using a 3/4 inch blade, and also using a smaller blade for circular log cuts for bowl blanks. I am concerned that only the more expensive bandsaws are suitable for the the higher tension needed for 3/4 inch blades. This is considered a mid range machine. Would like to hear of users experience of tension issues using the Basato 4 for resawing. Would also consider the Record BS350 S which is cheaper.

 

[TomO]

Hello there. I own a Basato 4. I find fairly accurate once its been set up really carefully. I think its a little underpowered for deeper rips. With a new good quality blade I still wouldnt be confident ripping deeper than around 8 inches. My only other gripe is the shape the basato bandsaws are means they take up more room than a normal more square bandsaw (only an issue in small workshops like mine). If I was buying again I would save a little more money and get a Hammer n4400 or similar.

Hope this helps. Tom

 

[ProShop]

I've had the Basato 4 for over 4yrs now and it's a good bandsaw. I've had 1" blades on and used it for resawing 10" X 10" Oak into veneers and similar work. It has a very good sized table for resting large timbers on. Also cuts circles very accurately with very narrow blades on. Have a look round for a s/hand one & save some money.

 

[artanddecco]

Thanks to TomO and ProShop for your encouraging replies. Would really like to know when using the one inch blade, if its then necessary to use a planer, to get a decent surface sufficient for use in small scroll saw projects. I dont have enough room for both a bandsaw and a planer. When its then changed over to a small width blade, for circular cuts on bowl blanks, does it take up to eg 10 minutes, 20 minutes or 30 minutes or more to change and reset correctly !. Another query is that I hear that on some cheaper bandsaws, the bearings are not good enough to take the necessary tension of the 3/4" and 1" blades. Have either of you had problems of screeching bearings. In my case, will probable not want to resaw much more than 6.5 inches.
John

 

[Eric The Viking]

IIRC, Steve Maskery has one too. It's in his videos.

Steve ?

 

[artanddecco]

Thanks Steve, that got me to look at the Steve Maskery Video. Useful to see its a Scheppach

 

[TomO]

I think the one seen in steve`s videos is the larger size. In term of blade size I have found I prefer using a maximum 1/2" blade in my basato 4. I have tried a 1" blade and a 3/4" and find I get a better result with a thinner blade. Im pretty sure this is because this saw struggles to tension blades bigger than 1/2".
In terms of the time to change the blade. Once you have been through a couple of setups and know the saw inside out i'm sure 10 minutes will be ample time for a blade change and re-setup.
Reading it back my first post looks a little negative towards the saw, I didn't mean it to sound that way. It is a decent little saw and with a good blade will resaw your 6.5" no problem. My hankering for a more powerful saw is just a flaw in my nature. Id prefer to be able to rip 10" even if I only ever need to rip 5", ha ha

 

[artanddecco]

Thanks TomO. Its good to hear of your experience with different size blades and the 1/2" being your preferred choice. John Bullard in his review agrees with your conclusion : http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=521 I was told there is a new Basato 4 coming on the market soon, but have no idea how it will be different.
John

 

[Steve Maskery]

Mine is the Basato 5. It's a monster. I have seen, but not used, the B4.
A 1/2" blade is ideal for resawing, and easier to tension, you do not need to go higher. Remember that the more steel there is in the blade, the more tension you need to apply, so big blades are better suited to big machines. Just because a wheel is 1" wide it does not mean that the saw can successfully tension such a wide blade, especially if it is a traditional thickness and not thin-kerf. The configuration of the teeth is much more important. Go to Ian John at Tuffsaws and ask his advice. He'll sort you out.
As for speed of change, that rather depends on you! The first time it will take forever, but once you get used to it, you can do it in 10 minutes, no problem. Just make sure you get some excellent training! And remember, it's worth going to the trouble of eliminating drift, so that the mitre slot becomes useable, rather than just compensating for it by skewing the fence. That is a very second-best solution.
If you do the right adjustments in the right order you will get excellent results, I am sure.
HTH
Steve

 

[xy mosian]

Steve Maskery is not a bloke to blow his own trumpet. However if you feel the need for guidance in setting up your bandsaw to get the best from it, then Steve's own videos have a very good reputation in these parts. Other parts too I don't doubt.
xy

 

[Steve Maskery]

Steve Maskery is not a bloke to blow his own trumpet.

I nearly spilled my coffee.
Many thanks for the thumbs up, much appreciated.

 

[artanddecco]

Thanks for your advice Steve and all you have contributed to my query. I am much encouraged, and will be ordering a couple of the videos as soon as I proceed and order the Bandsaw
John

 

[stokiejoe]

Hello there. I own a Basato 4. I find fairly accurate once its been set up really carefully. I think its a little underpowered for deeper rips. With a new good quality blade I still wouldnt be confident ripping deeper than around 8 inches. My only other gripe is the shape the basato bandsaws are means they take up more room than a normal more square bandsaw (only an issue in small workshops like mine). If I was buying again I would save a little more money and get a Hammer n4400 or similar.

Hope this helps. Tom

Hello

I know this is an old post but I have recently acquired one of these bandsaws I've got it all set up but I'm finding that anything deeper than 3" the blade simply stops have you had this problem? ( Never owned a bandsaw before so utterly at a loss. )