Scheppach Basato 1 Bandsaw Wheel Wobble

[NiallMcc]

Hi all,

I recently bought my first bandsaw which is a used Scheppach Basato 1 and have been having trouble with it while getting it set up. I purchased a blade and got it up and running for a few days but the blade suddenly dropped off the wheel the other night while in use.

The bottom wheel has a wobble on it and I'm not sure if it was there to begin with or I made it worse. I also don't know if it's because the wheel is warped or something else is off in the motor housing.

I've uploaded several videos where you can see that the blade doesn't track evenly on the top or bottom and the bottom wheel also spins back before it stops.

I have all the blade guides backed off from as well. I've looked into buying a replacement wheel but they seem hard to come by in Ireland where I'm based.

If anyone has any idea on how to fix this without having to replace the wheel I'd greatly appreciate your help.

Thanks!

 

[rogxwhit]

Oh lord that ain't right at all! The wheel might not be seated properly & it looks like it might be held on by that hex screw - which is likely a LH thread. Have it off & investigate its fit on the shaft.

That wobble looks to me to be originating in the plane of the wheel rather than further back in the shaft & bearing.

 

[Agent_zed]

I've got the same saw, but don't have that problem.

For what its worth I would suggest.

- remove the blade.
- rotate the bottom wheel and feel for worn bearings
-if bearing are ok clamp a block of wood to the base with a small gap and rotate the wheel so you can see how much and where the wobble is.
- remove the wheel and ensure there is nothing stopping it seating correctly.
- also check the motor shaft is spinning centrally and not bent
- if above is ok, place the wheel on something flat and see how bad the bend is.
- the wheel is cast aluminium I think so is going to be brittle so do this at your own risk... gently bend the wheel where it is out of flat, going slow and gently and checking each time on the flat surface.
-hopefully you can get it back flat.

I guess perhaps someone over tensioned the blade and buckled it?

The main problem I have/had is the guide wheels. The rear guide 'wheel' stopped rotating and the blade just cut into the wheel creating a groove which eventually started snapping blades. doesn't seem like an easy part to get hold of so to start with I ground down the surface to remove the groove but it eventually happened again (another blade bites the dust).

So I recently bought a small sealed bearing 4x16x5mm from ebay √ 600 - 699 zz QUALITY DOUBLE SEALED MINIATURE BEARINGS ALL SIZES AVAILABLE RC √ | eBay and drilled and tapped a piece of 10mm rod to take a 4mm machine screw to hold the bearing on. I drilled it off centre so I could turn the rod to position it best.

I'm not sure it will last that long but I can turn it around in the short term and in the long term I might make a new carrier was the bearing guides with the rear thrust bearing inline with the blade so it rotates rather than the blade sliding down the slide. still have no idea why the bearing is perpendicular to the blade?

hope that helps

 

[NiallMcc]

Oh lord that ain't right at all! The wheel might not be seated properly & it looks like it might be held on by that hex screw - which is likely a LH thread. Have it off & investigate its fit on the shaft.

That wobble looks to me to be originating in the plane of the wheel rather than further back in the shaft & bearing.

Yep, you're absolutely right! I just took the wheel off and it's slightly bent out of flat..

 

[NiallMcc]

I've got the same saw, but don't have that problem.

For what its worth I would suggest.

- remove the blade.
- rotate the bottom wheel and feel for worn bearings
-if bearing are ok clamp a block of wood to the base with a small gap and rotate the wheel so you can see how much and where the wobble is.
- remove the wheel and ensure there is nothing stopping it seating correctly.
- also check the motor shaft is spinning centrally and not bent
- if above is ok, place the wheel on something flat and see how bad the bend is.
- the wheel is cast aluminium I think so is going to be brittle so do this at your own risk... gently bend the wheel where it is out of flat, going slow and gently and checking each time on the flat surface.
-hopefully you can get it back flat.

I guess perhaps someone over tensioned the blade and buckled it?

The main problem I have/had is the guide wheels. The rear guide 'wheel' stopped rotating and the blade just cut into the wheel creating a groove which eventually started snapping blades. doesn't seem like an easy part to get hold of so to start with I ground down the surface to remove the groove but it eventually happened again (another blade bites the dust).

So I recently bought a small sealed bearing 4x16x5mm from ebay √ 600 - 699 zz QUALITY DOUBLE SEALED MINIATURE BEARINGS ALL SIZES AVAILABLE RC √ | eBay and drilled and tapped a piece of 10mm rod to take a 4mm machine screw to hold the bearing on. I drilled it off centre so I could turn the rod to position it best.

I'm not sure it will last that long but I can turn it around in the short term and in the long term I might make a new carrier was the bearing guides with the rear thrust bearing inline with the blade so it rotates rather than the blade sliding down the slide. still have no idea why the bearing is perpendicular to the blade?

hope that helps

Thanks for sharing all this info! I just took the wheel off today and it is bent of out flat. I'll try to flatten it gently myself but it's a good few degrees bent out of shape. Good news is the motor shaft seems to be straight and has no wobble to it. I have managed to source a spare wheel so if all else fails I know I can buy a replacement one.

I noticed the exact same issue on my rear guide wheel, there's a grove formed on it already! I'll have to keep an eye on that and will try the above fix if it gets worse on me. The guide wheels on mine aren't in great condition and I'd love to replace them but I'm not sure the upgrade is worthwhile on this bandsaw.

 

[Ttrees]

It could be a few issues, but must say its the first case of a wheel being warped
for no good reason, which I've seen (should it be the case)
I've always seen strange alloys as something which shouldn't be used for bandwheels, nor other cast components.
(Is it magnesium or some alloy, I couldn't say, I guess not cast iron.
Terrible design of wheel, possibly a contributing factor, if some odd alloy, I would guess
Though too hard to say by hand turning wheels alone without knowing...
I didn't see any mention of how things look, without a blade....



Is the bottom wheel in alignment with non adjustable top wheel, (in terms of skew)
The top wheel should only be able tilt, and not skew.

To get the bottom wheel to correlate with top on a small saw like that,
it should be easy align wheels using a beam and ruler.
See Grizzly video regarding co-planar wheels, (this is for pre-alignment checking)

you can use a rule thereafter, or strip of masking tape on the base,
and mark a line w/pencil, with aim to make lines parallel to each other, whichever you prefer to reference.

Wheel depth done by levelling machine on two axis beforehand, the column (spine) is about the best you've got,
and a beam or plumbline to get the depth of the wheels within the machine cabinet to match.

With both wheels aligned, then time to see if the motor is in alignment.
You might be able to sight it by eye, or the beam with pencil/both.

If not a brand new machine within warranty, hoping all is the issue might be
the jacking bolts, which hold the shaft of the wheel being a mile out, stripped threads, or perhaps not even there anymore?
Best to detension before adjustment.

Good luck
Tom

 

[rogxwhit]

Go easy on the wheel - probably alu alloy, malleable to a degree but could easily crack when stressed But then something has to be done! You're unlikely to get it running hyper-true, but maybe good enough will do.

 

[Niall Church]

I've got the same saw, but don't have that problem.

For what its worth I would suggest.

- remove the blade.
- rotate the bottom wheel and feel for worn bearings
-if bearing are ok clamp a block of wood to the base with a small gap and rotate the wheel so you can see how much and where the wobble is.
- remove the wheel and ensure there is nothing stopping it seating correctly.
- also check the motor shaft is spinning centrally and not bent
- if above is ok, place the wheel on something flat and see how bad the bend is.
- the wheel is cast aluminium I think so is going to be brittle so do this at your own risk... gently bend the wheel where it is out of flat, going slow and gently and checking each time on the flat surface.
-hopefully you can get it back flat.

I guess perhaps someone over tensioned the blade and buckled it?

The main problem I have/had is the guide wheels. The rear guide 'wheel' stopped rotating and the blade just cut into the wheel creating a groove which eventually started snapping blades. doesn't seem like an easy part to get hold of so to start with I ground down the surface to remove the groove but it eventually happened again (another blade bites the dust).

So I recently bought a small sealed bearing 4x16x5mm from ebay √ 600 - 699 zz QUALITY DOUBLE SEALED MINIATURE BEARINGS ALL SIZES AVAILABLE RC √ | eBay and drilled and tapped a piece of 10mm rod to take a 4mm machine screw to hold the bearing on. I drilled it off centre so I could turn the rod to position it best.

I'm not sure it will last that long but I can turn it around in the short term and in the long term I might make a new carrier was the bearing guides with the rear thrust bearing inline with the blade so it rotates rather than the blade sliding down the slide. still have no idea why the bearing is perpendicular to the blade?

hope that helps

Could he not get a new wheel for it, instead of risking bending it?

 

[Agent_zed]

Could he not get a new wheel for it, instead of risking bending it?

probably, but if you are going to buy a new wheel anyway then doesn;t really matter if you have a go at bending it first. It either fixes it and you don't have to buy a new one or you break it and just carry on and buy one.

 

[Fergie 307]

Easiest if you have, or know someone with a lathe that will accommodate it. Just makes it a lot easier to see exactly where you need to work on it. Or maybe a proper bike repair place with a wheel truing stand. The trick with something like this is to make sure the part that is ok is adequately supported before you start trying to bend the part that needs attention, otherwise you risk just putting a kink in it somewhere else. How difficult it maybe depends on how badly out it is, and where particularly in relation to the spokes.

 

[Niall Church]

probably, but if you are going to buy a new wheel anyway then doesn;t really matter if you have a go at bending it first. It either fixes it and you don't have to buy a new one or you break it and just carry on and buy one.

He could keep the new wheel handy, and if not needed he can send it back unused,he could ask the shop if that is possible! If he has the new wheel close at hand, it will give him confidence to try what you suggested knowing he can replace it immediately with the new wheel!!