Schepach 4010 seems to have lost power

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Jaybee24

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18 Dec 2009
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Burgh Heath. Tadworth Surrey
Hi. I have a schepach 4010 and what a good saw it has been. For the very first time after many hours of happy problem free sawing I had a piece of wood "kick back" its' the very dangerous occurence that every Magazine and woodworking writer warns you about and only happens once in a blue moon.

Well I am truly converted. After nearly losing my thumb and a couple of fingers, I can say they have been patched up at A&E and are now nearly healed. Even though I was very careful in the past I truly vow that I will be one hundred times more careful in the future.

The problem I now have is that the trauma suffered by the 4010,it seems was just too much. Even though I have a verified good electrical supply to the machine, it simply will not function. I have in my time been an electrician, electrical engineer and electronic engineer and I do indeed have the tools to test these sort of things. I have not yet had the machine apart.

Can anyone tell me if there is any kind of power circuit breaker fitted to the 4010. If there is then it is certainly not an obvious feature. Maybe I have to look inside the machine or remove a panel.

Can anyone please advise?

Jaybee24
 
Is the capacitor ok. The one on my 4010 went after about 5 years of fairly heavy use and caused the saw not too start. There are no safety switches on mine.

cheers

Jon
 
Thanks Jon

Aha! You make a good point. I have not checked that out. It is of course possible the capacitor blew when the motor was snagged to a virtual stop by the wood.

Thanks that is a good place to start investigation.

I will let you know

Best regards

Jaybee24
 
Hi Jaybee and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your accident - having had a similar event, I know how you feel!

There is also a little PC board in the plug socket box at the back of the machine that controls the electric braking. This can become faulty - mine doesn't like it when I unplug/plug the cable in and out. I think there is a poor solder joint in there that reacts to the minor stress on the socket as I move the plug.
 
Just to put this one to bed:- It was the relay contactor in the box that houses the red/green on off switches. Close examination reveals that all the contacts have become welded together or that is what it looks like.

Replacing the contactor solves the problem. Each wire/spade terminal must be swapped over one by one. Do not take this job on lightly as it is a hell of a job to get the relay contactor back into the box without the wires fouling it all up.

Many thanks to those who replyed..

Best regards

John.


PS Thumb replaced by A&E using a tincture of Chimp glue and geriller filler. :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
Just a quick question Jaybee....what type of fence did you have on the saw when the incident happened. Was it a short fence or one that goes front to back?

Also...it is important to ensure that your blades are sharp. A dull blade will have a tendency to cut badly and have TCT bits sticking out to catch more easily.

Obviously some woods are also to blame but the above two points and a incorrectly mounted riving knife or blade dimension are the usual causes of kickback.

Jim
 
It was the long fence that goes front to back. The standard one with the two air hose clips on the top.

The blade was and still is a fairly old one but is still quiet sharp and looks to be in good condition.

I was preparing to cut some rebates for a window frame in soft wood an I was testing the cut on a piece of scrap wood which happened to be in the shape of a wedge. Looking back it was a stupid thing to do as the thin bit of the wedge was toward me. Therefore I could not control it as well as a piece of normal stock. I had a plastic push rod in my right hand pushing the wood forward and my poor left hand thumb was doing something like a feather loc should have been doing.

I know - I know. Just like a red rag to a bull I have learned my lesson (the hard way). Totally my own stupid fault and not the saw.

Best regards

John
 
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