sawing teak

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ken Smith

Member
Joined
31 Dec 2008
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
France
What am I doing wrong? Every time I cut a length of teak on my circular-saw after 2ft. the blade starts smoking, I've fitted a new blade on two occasions to no avail :oops:
 
Have you got the correct size riving knife to match the blade kerf? sounds like the cut is closing and pinching the blade.
I'm assuming you have a rip blade and enough horsepower to keep the blade speed up?
Teak is pretty abrasive and so you will need a carbide tipped blade.

Bob
 
It's also a very heavy/dense wood and I think it also has calcium deposits in it - which really blunt your tools
 
TCT saw blades are needed for teak...I assume yours is? If it's smoking after a 2' cut then the blade is blunt and whatever you do, never put teak thru' a p/t!! Handplaning only and you'll need to resharpen your plane blades about every three minutes with constant use...have fun :) and welcome to the forum - Rob
 
Beg to disagree, my Nutool(!) lunchbox planer regularly surfaces and thicknesses 100 year old teak (ex lab benches). Shallow cuts and lots of 'em = nice surfaces. Yes, tough on blades, but my HSS ones do resharpen fairly easily.
Dust is a far worse problem. Outside working is an absolute must.

Sam
 
If your planer/thicknesser will accept TCT blades (knives) then you could of course go down that route. While they do last a lot longer, you can't resharpen them. HSS blades tend to give a better finish (when sharp).
 
Hi,

Sounds like its pinching the blade you might have to stop push a wedge in the kerf and continue. I have just had to do this on 10 planks of birch they warped so much it split the final 2 inches on lots of the planks.

Pete
 
SammieQ":bw6552kq said:
Beg to disagree, my Nutool(!) lunchbox planer regularly surfaces and thicknesses 100 year old teak (ex lab benches). Shallow cuts and lots of 'em = nice surfaces. Yes, tough on blades, but my HSS ones do resharpen fairly easily.
Dust is a far worse problem. Outside working is an absolute must.

Sam

When I was at college in the 70's teak was very much in vogue. It was the only material that the machine shop refused to plane, the student just collected a big parcel of the stuff and then it all had to be planed by hand. But then again, if sharpening planer blades is your thing...rock on! :) Fwiw, I was reliably informed that several woodworking business went to the wall in the 70's 'cos d'management didn't take into account the down time for sharpening tooling when using teak. Teak dust isn't too bad, it's iroko that's the shocker...this was also used for lab benches - Rob
 
OPJ":2ojf5ktn said:
If your planer/thicknesser will accept TCT blades (knives) then you could of course go down that route. While they do last a lot longer, you can't resharpen them. HSS blades tend to give a better finish (when sharp).

Just want to point out that TCT knives can be sharpened although it is more expensive at my saw doctors to sharpen TCT over HSS.

jon
 
Rob, I bow to your more extensive experience. I don't process anything like the volume a 'pro' workshop would and therefore don't run into the same problems.

Sam
 
Hi from deepest France,
thank you one and all for your replies my teak isn't as exotic as Sam's lab-desks it was just a plain old greenhouse frame, but it was free. Since writing I have discovered that the old log-saw (3-phase) which was abandoned along with the teak rips it down a treat, sharpening the blade occasionally then it goes through my Geetech P/T also sharpening the knives occasionally finished off with a little sanding then oiling, the loungers are coming on a treat.
Cheers from France
 
Back
Top