sawing green oak

[RogerS]

Given the rate at which I seem to be blunting my saws, what would people recommend? Just keep buying hardpoint saws from Travis Perkins or is there some magical saw that I can buy that will last forever and never need sharpening?

 

[selly]

a bowsaw with teeth for greenwood?

 

[StarGazer]

Dear All,

Firstly hello! Been lurking for quite a while. Learning something new every day.

Once a month I am helping build a large green oak framed building...well the oak started green but now even the 10" sqare posts are fairly well air dried!

Given that none of us started out as trained frame builders we all use Stanlet Jetcut saws and throw them away after a year or so (say 6 weeks solid use). The difference between new, 6 months old and one year old is very noticeable. At under £8 from screwfix they work very well and it doesnt matter if we are working in the rain or they get left out overnight.

These saws cut green oak very well crosscutting, and seem to cope ok when ripping along the grain. Once the initial sharpness has been worn off they can cut very accurately.

StarGazer

 

[Bob Smalser]

Given the rate at which I seem to be blunting my saws, what would people recommend? Just keep buying hardpoint saws from Travis Perkins or is there some magical saw that I can buy that will last forever and never need sharpening?

Over here replacement blades for induction-hardened saws cost between 20 and 50 dollars depending on the quality of the saw. That'd get old in a real hurry around my house.

If you're going to do much of this, it isn't difficult to learn how to file saws, and a couple 5-point Disston D-8 or Spear and Jackson 28" thumbhole rip saws in good condition can be had inexpensively at least here....including ones that have been rehabbed and are ready to work. Simply refile one of them to crosscut teeth and you have a perfect set of timber saws.

Horsing through green wood is where you want a heavy, coarse D-8 and not a thin cabinetmaker's saw like a #12 or #16 or the S&J equivalent. Trying for a smooth finish on green wood is a waste of time. Keep the saws coarse and clean up using a plane.

And don't be shy of using two hands. Filing saws is a pretty quick learning curve. After some practice you can touch both your saws up at the end of a long day's use in about 20 minutes. It's the much-abused saws badly out of joint that take an hour or more to file.

 

[RogerS]

Thanks all for the suggestions.

In the end I took the easy way out and bought a bowsaw with a raker blade for green wood and WOW! What a difference so thanks selly for the suggestion.

 

[jonny2mad]

I have some old spear and jackson saws that belonged to my late father and grandfather cant remember if they have a thumb hole, but if not thats a type of saw I now have on my list of tools to get .