Sawbench, still can't decide

[Pond]

Hi,

I have been looking (and looking and looking) to buy a sawbench for a while now.

i thought i had decided on the Ax TS200 kit

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod833225/

but have been put off by the 60mm cutting depth. I anticipate needing to re-saw 75mm plus timber, so am now leading towards this one

http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jet-jts- ... prod32026/

as it has a significantly larger motor and will cut 90mm. It also is a 'site saw' so I can move it out of the way easily when not in use.

I need to cut dried oak and have concerns about small motors!

any opinions?

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

A few have said its under powered for thicker wood. Combine this with oak and i think your on a loser for the Jet.

Out of the two i would go with the TS200 and just flip the timber after one pass to rip timber upto 120mm thick

 

[Pond]

Out of the two i would go with the TS200 and just flip the timber after one pass to rip timber upto 120mm thick

Doh (homer) I never thought of that!!!

Thanks

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Have you thought of a bandsaw for thinker timbers?

 

[Pond]

Have you thought of a bandsaw for thinker timbers?

Can wood think?? I learn new things here everyday! :wink: :wink:

I can't really justify both at the minute. I think a rip saw will be generally more useful to start, as I always seem to be doing general joinery at home too. If I really get the bug and find I can't do without a bandsaw, I may have to re-think.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Thinks harder then me most of the time

 

[Pond]

LOL, ditto! (hammer)

 

[cambournepete]

PM sent.

 

[woodbloke]

Out of the two i would go with the TS200 and just flip the timber after one pass to rip timber upto 120mm thick

A popular and oft quoted way to use the table saw, but 'deep-ripping' is fraught with danger, not least because the guard and riving knife have to be removed. The consequence is that there's a danger of kick back which is not recommended. If it's of any use, this technique has been illegal in the trade for many years.

Deep rip at your peril :shock: - Rob

 

[Pond]

A popular and oft quoted way to use the table saw, but 'deep-ripping' is fraught with danger, not least because the guard and riving knife have to be removed. The consequence is that there's a danger of kick back which is not recommended. If it's of any use, this technique has been illegal in the trade for many years.

Deep rip at your peril :shock: - Rob

Good point! I would like to avoid cutting my arm off for the sake of buying a less able saw!!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod832683/

I am tempted by this one, but with extensions and sliding table it's near the £1000 mark, which is more than I'd like to pay at the moment. Does anyone have this saw?

 

[woodbloke]

A popular and oft quoted way to use the table saw, but 'deep-ripping' is fraught with danger, not least because the guard and riving knife have to be removed. The consequence is that there's a danger of kick back which is not recommended. If it's of any use, this technique has been illegal in the trade for many years.

Deep rip at your peril :shock: - Rob

Good point! I would like to avoid cutting my arm off for the sake of buying a less able saw!!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod832683/

I am tempted by this one, but with extensions and sliding table it's near the £1000 mark, which is more than I'd like to pay at the moment. Does anyone have this saw?

The saw bench that I'm going for is this one:

...the Charnwood W650. I've seen it in the flesh at Yandles and it's very, very good. It's also recieved some glowing reviews in the press (to name Andy King and Nick Gibbs of this parish) Cost is around £750, 10" blade, ci top, decent fence with fine adjustor, sliding table etc A great saw for the money - Rob

 

[monkeybiter]

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod832683/

I am tempted by this one, but with extensions and sliding table it's near the £1000 mark, which is more than I'd like to pay at the moment. Does anyone have this saw?

I've just bought the 12" version [at the 2010 price], a lot of money but I spent a lot of time looking around and it seemed the best value for money at this price range, and I don't anticipate ever having to buy another.

I think the only significant differences between the 10" and the 12" are motor power and capacity. I am extremely satisfied so far, the fence is rock solid, the blade runs true and the sliding table is a joy to use.

 

[Steve Maskery]

My vote would be for a mid-range bandsaw.
Don't get me wrong, I have a very nice tablesaw and I wouldn't be without it. But if your criteria includes deep ripping, then a tablesaw is not at all the right machine for the job. A bandsaw will do that for you. It needs to be set up well (but then so does a TS - and yes, I do know that is a bit easier on the TS) but getting a BS right is not actually difficult. Just get some Tuffsaws blades and a bit of tuition and you'll be deep-ripping, ripping and cutting curves to your heart's content, and doing it safely.
The BS is not so good at cross-cutting, of course, as you are limited by the diameter of the wheels.
S

 

[barkwindjammer]

I read one poster on here not that long ago say that his TS had become almost redundant after he got a bandsaw :idea:

 

[Shane]

I read one poster on here not that long ago say that his TS had become almost redundant after he got a bandsaw :idea:

Depends on your needs, they are obviously very different machines. I had to get a table saw first, and it is central to the way I work, and the bandsaw would just not be suitable, although the bandsaw is next on the must have list for curves and the afore mentioned deep ripping.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

A popular and oft quoted way to use the table saw, but 'deep-ripping' is fraught with danger, not least because the guard and riving knife have to be removed. The consequence is that there's a danger of kick back which is not recommended. If it's of any use, this technique has been illegal in the trade for many years.

Deep rip at your peril :shock: - Rob

Good point! I would like to avoid cutting my arm off for the sake of buying a less able saw!!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod832683/

I am tempted by this one, but with extensions and sliding table it's near the £1000 mark, which is more than I'd like to pay at the moment. Does anyone have this saw?

I have this very saw with all the extensions and sliding gear, the 12" version you need 3 phase where as the 10" its only recommended you have 3 phase. I don't and have never had a problem with it.

Fantastic saw and the fence is brilliant.

Deep ripping isn't to dangerous if you be carfull and take your time. I wasn't aware it was illegal though. Pond are you trade :lol:

You don't have to remove your riving knife if you have one that don't support your guard. With my AW10 I modified the riving knife and built a support arm for the guard so I don't have to remove the knife for anything.

I have never had issues with deep ripping but I have always been careful. Do it in 4 rips. 1/4 the way through, then 1/2 way then flip to do 1/4 and then 1/2.

I do use my band saw for thick rips now though. Unless its a very long length. A bandsaw isn't a bad idea if you plan to rip thick oak. I was once ripping down 2" AW oak on my AW10BSB2. Very sharp near new blade yet it struggled to not only keep the cut straight but as the oak bowed as it was cut, it forced onto the blade jamming it and made the cut very unsafe. I had to turn to my bandsaw to finish that cut off which worked a treat. A trick when this happens to to start the cut again on the TS (so your cutting away the bowed bit) but this didn't work on this occasion.

 

[monkeybiter]

I have this very saw with all the extensions and sliding gear, the 12" version you need 3 phase where as the 10" its only recommended you have 3 phase. I don't and have never had a problem with it.

It's still single phase 240V but needs a 16A supply, no big deal.

but as the oak bowed as it was cut, it forced onto the blade jamming it and made the cut very unsafe.

Were you using the supplied short auxilliary fence ?

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

I have this very saw with all the extensions and sliding gear, the 12" version you need 3 phase where as the 10" its only recommended you have 3 phase. I don't and have never had a problem with it.

It's still single phase 240V but needs a 16A supply, no big deal.

but as the oak bowed as it was cut, it forced onto the blade jamming it and made the cut very unsafe.

Were you using the supplied short auxilliary fence ?

Yes your right sorry, 16a supply needed. Was an extra cost of £200 for me when I brought. The machines then was supplied with everything, no option for saw only etc so the price was well over a grand plus electrics. I sided with ill never need that extra power or the extra 400mm extension table that came with the 12".

No i wasn't. I barely use the one supplied, its to fiddly to fit. I just use another wooden one i have clamped on. Which is what i was using.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I just had a second look: I think the Charnwood sliding table/fence is the same as the Axy TS200 and the Kity 419. The Charnwood's track might be slightly different, but the carriage and fence look identical. The rip fence isn't the same though (the Axy and Kity ARE identical in that respect)

I'm not sure this means anything, as the actual saw table itself is quite different -- looks very nice though.

 

[Pond]

Well I took the plunge and ordered a TS200 from Axminster yesterday.

I only ordered the basic saw, as I can add the sliding table and extensions if, and when I need them.

I will make a stand for it, as the angle jelly sorry iron, stand they sell is rubbish (got one on my RT).

I will get a better blade from somewhere straight away too.

At the end of the day as long as the table is flat, the fence is straight and the motor is beefy enough it should be fine! :?: :!: