saw blades

[essexcowboy]

advice please...what are the best blades to use when cutting thin ply. the reason i ask is when cutting thin ply i am breaking the thinner parts of the pattern, i turned the speed down low but it makes no difference i am using 18 and 24 tpi blades i got from machine mart. have looked around and now even more confused by the variety of blades. and as you probably guessed i am a newbie to scrolling
after reading a couple of posts i think it maybe the ply i am using. got it from wickes so probably not the best

 

[Claymore]

Hi,
I don't actually cut thin materials so can't help with the size/type of blades suitable but for quality i find the Pegas and Olsen brand blades are good quality.
There should be some of the scroller guys along soon who will know more about it.
Cheers and welcome to the forum
Brian
ps you will find decent blades will make a big difference in your work so worth getting some, also can you use pinless blades?

 

[Chippygeoff]

You may find that it is not so much the blade that is causing the damage but the insert plate and the aperture being to big. If this is the case the thin plywood is not being supported when it is close to the blade. You can make a new insert from a variety of materials and make a zero clearance hole flor the blade. If you got your blades from machine mart then the chances are that they are not much good. As Brian said, Olsen and Pegas blades are very good or you could try Niqua blades from Hobbies. With thin ply the make of blade does not really matter but a quality blade does. I would go for number 3 and number 5 blades. The 5s you can use to cut the outside shapes as you have more control with a 5 in keeping to the line of the pattern and you can use the 3 blades for your internal cuts.

 

[jonluv]

Hi ,
Are you using pinned blades? If so can you use pinless blades?. As Chippygeoff says if you can use pinless blades try a number 3
Regarding the table insert , If the hole is too big try covering table with "stick backed plastic"

John

 

[essexcowboy]

i have a blade adapter so can use either. Chippygeoff great bit of advice thanks i have now made a new insert and its so much better would never of thought about the hole being to large

 

[ChrisR]

Hi.

Welcome to the forum.

Follow the advice given by Geoff, in above post and you will be well on track.

Take care.

Chris R.

 

[summertime]

Hi, this is what i do. I stack 4 or 5 thin layers of ply sometimes more. nail them in a parcel at the corners, masking tape on top.pattern with carpet spray adhesive on next, sellotape on top. use flying dutchman no 3 or 5 ultra reverse blades, not sure which layer the reverse teeth cut, use excalibur EX30, fantastic saw better than my Hegner polycut 3
adjust saw to give minimum orbital action, that is forward bite. I cut some very fine detail out of ply from drawer bottoms, not birch ply quality, I stick selotape over completed sections as they are so delicate, be carefull poking out parts cut as blade can move them up and down breaking delicate cut sections.
stack em and they hold together better
Roy Ames

 

[scrimper]

Thin material is very difficult to cut detail. As Summertime says stacking does help, even if I only want one of an item I always stack at least 3 to cut, this makes it much easier by slowing the cutting down, it also usually ensures that at least the middle one in the stack will be good and you will have at least one spare to use.

I am assuming you are using standard blades rather than pin end ones? if not you really need to get a couple of adaptors to convert your saw to take std blades, (you can even knock up your own adaptors if you are handy)

Geoffs comment about the blade aperture is also very important, you need to have a blade hole that is a max of about 3mm in dia.

For delicate work you need fine blades, for thin ply you can use right down to 00 size but they are really delicate and break easily. I would suggest trying a size 1 or 2 and see how you get on.

I have tried various types of blades but I generally use the Niqua ones which Hobbies sell, there is not much of a price difference between ordinary blades and the reverse tooth ones so I normally only buy reverse tooth (this minimises cut out underneath the work)

http://www.alwayshobbies.com/tools/hand ... ccessories

Hobbies only sell the reverse tooth blades in sizes 5, 7 and 9 but Hegner sell them in the smaller sizes such as 00 (2/0)

http://www.hegner.co.uk/products/spares ... lades.html

 

[essexcowboy]

some great advice and tips. im really grateful thanks. made myself a new insert and it is so much better. thanks chippygeoff, tried the stacking tip today and that helped a lot too. looking at mikesworkshop for blades (anyone else used him) .

 

[Chippygeoff]

Many of us on here USED to use FD blades but not anymore. The reason for this is that the quality of the blades has dropped and as a result they break very easily. Those of us who no longer use FD blades have gone over to Olsen or Pegus blades. I used Fd blades for many years and a few weeks back went over to Olsen and I am very pleased with the way they cut. If you look up "The Wooden Teddy Bear company" you will find many blades there. As John has suggested you really need a reverse toothed blade for your thin play to prevent breakout on the underside.

 

[Claymore]

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[essexcowboy]

ordered some olsen blades today including reverse blades. many thanks again for the advice although a newbie to scrolling at 50 plus never to old to learn. got to say never thought it would be so damn addictive, going to get some practice under my belt then attempt a piece of intarsia so no doubt be pestering for more tips very soon........