Sanding Sealer Question

[Dizzwold]

Hi Guys,

I have some walnut I'm using for pelmets around my living room.

I'm sanding them back with 80, 120, 240 grit then finishing with 0000, Chestnut Cellulose Sanding Sealer and burnishing again with 0000 wirewool.

On one length I'd completed with the above process, I've had to sand part of it back to bare timber.

If I recoat the bare timber with the sanding sealer, will it create a tide mark where the fresh coat of sanding sealer meet/overlaps the existing sanding sealer?

Would I be better off to just sand the full length back and recoat with sanding sealer?

Dizzwold.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd think you are working for nothing going beyond 240. No, you shouldn't get a line, especially if you've thinned the sealer which is always a good idea - I thin it 50/50 with cellulose thinners
Try using hot water - pour on, wipe off, go to lunch or knock off and leave it dry. It's surprising how much grain it'll raise, it can't do any harm and leaves no marks. Of course, you can do it between grits as well. Always worth a try, it's free.

 

[Blackswanwood]

I doubt you will create a tidemark I think I would wipe the dry edge of the already applied sanding sealer with meths using a lint free cloth immediately before applying to the adjoining piece. (That assumes it’s shellac based sanding sealer)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

He's using cellulose.

 

[Blackswanwood]

He's using cellulose.

Ah yes - sorry - as the youngsters say “my bad”!

 

[johnnyb]

No it won't have quite the same build but each coat of cellulose melts into the last and is the reason its usually sprayed if multiple coats are used as it drags.

 

[Dizzwold]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your replies. I'm very grateful.

Can any of you explain what has happened to this piece. This has had the exact same process as previously explained (sanded with 80, 120, 240 grit, 0000 wirewool, sanding sealer and burnished with 0000 wirewool again).
The only difference with this and others I'd already made, is this piece was straight from the timber yard that morning and worked on that same day?

The sanding sealer went On as normal (not pooling or anything odd), but when I went back to it it looked liked I'd missed areas. So I recoated these parts again. Again this looked fine and normal, but later, yet again it looked liked I'd completely missed these areas?

 

[johnnyb]

Not sure but is it sapwood? Pale wood from outside of the tree.

 

[Nelly111s]

It’s probably worth asking Terry Smart at Chestnut finishes. He’s very helpful. He publishes a weekly newsletter (yours may get featured) where he answers questions regarding different finishes.
And, by the way, don’t thin the sanding sealer - it’s the right consistency out of the tin (ask Terry - he’s a chemist).

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If it's the right cosistency out of the tin I'd suggest buying a better one, it'll work out cheaper.

 

[Dermot McArdle]

The problem might be that you are considering the the use of cellulose sanding sealer as a finish in itself. It is only a sealer and is a base on which to apply a further decorative finish such as wax or a clear lacquer.

Traditional wood finishers prefer to use shellac sanding sealer which has a high build quality, so filling some of the wood grain and settling to an even low gloss finish in itself.

Both sealers do require the dried finish to be sanded back flat in order to achieve an even effect. I would try using 00 wire wool instead as the 0000 is only useful as a polishing agent.

With your sample, try rubbing on a further coat of sealer with a folded cotton pad. If the dull patch persists, rub on some clear wax, it should disappear then.

 

[scooby]

Terry used to post here, but I don't think he's be on for a while. I recall he was pretty helpful when I had a sanding sealer issue with a turned item (which was also walnut, but the issue was different). After that, I always oil (usually some type of hard wax) on anything walnut.

As for thinning sealer, I always used un thinned..only because I kept forgetting to buy thinners. I used to watch a lot of turning stuff on YouTube, a lot. I'd say 99% were thinning the sealer.

 

[Jake]

It just looks like that is much more porous / absorbent, does look rather like sapwood like Johnny said. Give it some more coats and it'll stop sucking it in after a while.