Rubbish quality.

[whiskywill]

One of the 8ft. fluorescent tubes (or the starter) in my workshop has just failed after only 27 years of use. They just don't make things to last.

 

[delboy47]

And only a 26 year warranty. Typical.

 

[t8hants]

Are 8' tubes still available?

 

[Tasky]

One of the 8ft. fluorescent tubes (or the starter) in my workshop has just failed after only 27 years of use. They just don't make things to last.

You can buy an old Marples one on Ebay for only £20. I'm reliably informed that they're "better than the new Irwin ones and will last you a lifetime of woodworking"...

 

[monkeybiter]

Are 8' tubes still available?

Perhaps you could scarf two 4' tubes together?

 

[Jacob]

One of the 8ft. fluorescent tubes (or the starter) in my workshop has just failed after only 27 years of use. They just don't make things to last.

If it's just the starter they often will still light up after half a minute or so. No need to lash out on a new starter if you want to get your money's worth!

 

[whiskywill]

If it's just the starter they often will still light up after half a minute or so. No need to lash out on a new starter if you want to get your money's worth!

I haven't tried changing the starter yet as safe access is impeded by rather a lot of junk. It has been taking a long time to fire up the tube lately, sometimes as much as a couple of minutes, so I am hopeful that it is the starter.

 

[whiskywill]

A question. Is the starter supposed to glow when the power is switched on? It used to but doesn't now.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Yes it is supposed to glow when switched on:

There are two heater filaments, one at each end of the tube.

There's a neon in the starter: they have a very low resistance when glowing. It's in series with the two filaments. It allows them to heat up, but once there's a strike of the main tube, the starter system is effectively short circuited and both neon and heaters go off (they're not needed as heaters, as the plasma discharge is self-sustaining).

The heater filaments lose metal through evaporation, just like incandescent lightbulbs do. You can see the evaporated metal as a dark build-up on the glass inside the tube at the ends. If the ends are very dark, there is a good chance a filament has gone, in which case the tube is U/S.

If you have a test meter you could take the tube out and put the meter across the pairs of pins at the ends - that's the filaments and you should see a low-ish resistance. If very high, no filament any more :-(.

I'd try changing the starter capsule first, just in case. I have some, but IIRC they're only rated for 5ft tubes - you're welcome to one in the post to try it just in case. I don't know where you'd find the correct starter nowadays, sold individually I mean. Fleabay? If you want one, PM me but bear in mind it might not work.

To be honest, a couple of new LED units will probably give you as much light, but bear in mind tubes are quite directional (especially 8ft ones!) - brightest perpendicular to the centre of the tube. If you swap for something else you won't necessarily get the light where you used to, but you will probably save a bit of running cost though. Peter Millard has square LED panels in his workshop, and Steve Maskery has just bought some recently too -- I think both really like them, and I'm tempted myself...

 

[HappyHacker]

Last year I looked at getting some 8ft tubes for a customer. I could not find a local wholesaler who had/could get them in small qtys. They went for new LED units.

 

[whiskywill]

If you have a test meter you could take the tube out and put the meter across the pairs of pins at the ends

I have some, but IIRC they're only rated for 5ft tubes - you're welcome to one in the post to try it just in case. I don't know where you'd find the correct starter nowadays,

To be honest, a couple of new LED units will probably give you as much light,

Thanks for the very useful information and kind offer. I do have a meter and will test the tube before buying a new one. They are available for around £20 each.

Screwfix sell suitable starters for 99p a pair rated for 125W, the same as the existing starter.

I might go for LED panels but I like the light I get from the old fashioned tubes, and, if they last for another 27 years, they will probably outlast me.

 

[whiskywill]

It was the starter so my 27 year old tube is still alive and kicking. Hurrah!

 

[Geoff_S]

It was the starter so my 27 year old tube is still alive and kicking. Hurrah!

Yeh, but the starter is dead!

 

[AES]

I may well be wrong (NOT a professional) but I think I heard somewhere - maybe here - that standard practice when changing a tube is to change the starter as well, broken or not. They're dead cheap. Don't know if that applies "in reverse" (i.e. starter gone, change tube as well). Any professionals care to comment?

AES

 

[lurker]

I can't find the discussion about led panels
Can anyone point the way?

 

[whiskywill]

It was the starter so my 27 year old tube is still alive and kicking. Hurrah!

Yeh, but the starter is dead!

I believe it's called "planned obsolescence." :wink:

 

[gregmcateer]

It was the starter so my 27 year old tube is still alive and kicking. Hurrah!

Excellent recovery!!

Shame though when you have to fork out 99p for two, when one would have lasted another 27 years - Always looking to oversell (hammer)

 

[whiskywill]

It was the starter so my 27 year old tube is still alive and kicking. Hurrah!

Excellent recovery!!

Shame though when you have to fork out 99p for two, when one would have lasted another 27 years - Always looking to oversell (hammer)

In fact, a very good investment. I have two 8ft fluorescent lamps in my workshop but one had been out of action for about 3 years because I couldn't get it to work. I believed the ballast to be at fault but as I had my access equipment (an old chair) out I had a fiddle with it . I fitted the second new starter, removed and replaced the tube (not easy at 8ft long unless you have very long arms) and Eureka!, it worked. I now wear sunglasses in the shop.