Router table project

[Rookiecutter]

I am planning to build a router table to go on my benchtop. I am fairly new to woodworking but eager to jump in, learn and build.

I have a Mac allister MRO 1200 watt router. I can't seem to find a router plate that specifically fits that brand. So my first question is what is a good brand to purchase a plate from? I have seen the name rockler and MagnaLOCK thrown around. Also how do I know it will fit my router?

It also seems that palm routers are the preferred option, is there a reason for this? am I better off ditching the Mac allister (especially as it may not be the best brand) and getting a dewalt or Bosch?

What are people's thoughts on router lift's? At first glance they are eye wateringly expensive. But they seem to easily enable changing depth and router bits. Are they worth it? How much of a pain is changing the router bit under the table?

My other question is about the surface of the table itself. I was going to buy two hardwood plywood boards and glue them to create the table top. I think the friction of the top surface may interfere with sliding wood into the routing bit. Would a melamine chip board be a better top?

Any other hints would be helpful. I appreciate the expertise and advice.

 

[NickVanBeest]

Top for my router bench is 2 x 18mm ply, glued, and then I covered it with a sheet of tufnol to get a smooth surface. Used the same top in the previous attempt (see my thread about the rebuild) and it works really well.

 

[billw]

Ply is fine for router tables, router lifts - I don't see the point in anything elaborate because it takes seconds to reach under the table and adjust it but it depends how much work you're doing with the router. There are universal router plates available so you should find one to fit but good ones generally aren't cheap.

 

[Rookiecutter]

Top for my router bench is 2 x 18mm ply, glued, and then I covered it with a sheet of tufnol to get a smooth surface. Used the same top in the previous attempt (see my thread about the rebuild) and it works really well.

Did you have any issues leveling the ply? Can you be more specific about the tufnol? Is it sheet plastic like acrylic?

 

[Jameshow]

Hi

I would have thought that something like this would fit your router which has a fairly generic base plate I think from an elu originally??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313122263017
You could use ply but something with a melamine surface would be less friction as would phenol plywood or mrmdf such a varomat.

As to lifts the are expensive. You could try a sissor jack?

Other with greater experience will be along shortly.

Cheers James

 

[NickVanBeest]

Did you have any issues leveling the ply? Can you be more specific about the tufnol? Is it sheet plastic like acrylic?

I used a slightly bowed piece of lumber to ensure a good clamping power in the middle of the top, utilizing the dining table (as I had no bench at that time )


I used the 2mm Tufnol Whale sheet, glued on with contact glue, and the top is level and has been stable for the past 3 years.

 

[robgul]

I bought an aluminium router insert plate from Banggood or Aliexpress and the drilled it to work with the base of the cheapie Energer router that I built into the table - added a very basic scissor lift from the same source, with a bit of tweaking, and adding a switch gave me what I wanted (the only "cobble" was having to strap a strong cable tie round the switch on the router handle)
The whole thing is stored under a bench and just clamped to the bench top when I use it - being tall, the working level of the table is a good height for me. Dust extraction has now been added to the back of the fence together with T-track for featherboards etc.

 

[clogs]

Rookiecutter....
save all ur probs.....get something like this.....it's not the best but oh so conv.....pick it and put on a shelf.....
Mines got a 3HP Hitachi hanging from it.....there's 1/2 an excuse for a dust port which does work....seperate fences....and very stable....
mine was less than 50-60 squids...so long ago I just dont rememeber....they are on ebay at the mo but from the States but I'm sure they are still available there in the UK....the table is still flat after years of hard work.....mine gets chucked in the van for jobs away from the shop.....it's on a euro plallet for size and the forks make a conv table.....and yes it's got wet a time or two.....
ur McAllister is not the best but it'll get u started....they copy other router designs but never the mounting bolt patern....dohhh.....
Proper branded routers will always have a plate that fits them....
I will build a proper router table when the new workshop is built but I'll have a lot more room than the average w/shop....

 

[Cactushands]

Rookiecutter....
save all ur probs.....get something like this.....it's not the best but oh so conv.....pick it and put on a shelf.....
Mines got a 3HP Hitachi hanging from it.....there's 1/2 an excuse for a dust port which does work....seperate fences....and very stable....
mine was less than 50-60 squids...so long ago I just dont rememeber....they are on ebay at the mo but from the States but I'm sure they are still available there in the UK....the table is still flat after years of hard work.....mine gets chucked in the van for jobs away from the shop.....it's on a euro plallet for size and the forks make a conv table.....and yes it's got wet a time or two.....
ur McAllister is not the best but it'll get u started....they copy other router designs but never the mounting bolt patern....dohhh.....
Proper branded routers will always have a plate that fits them....
I will build a proper router table when the new workshop is built but I'll have a lot more room than the average w/shop....

View attachment 101317

Hello, i have just stumbled across this thread having been given a Mac Allister table exactly like yours above. It is old and i am looking routers that would fit the (rather basic) attachment options for this table. Could you let me know how you did it? Was it designed for a certain router (yours?) or did you adjust somehow? The screw holes look very wide for a typical place to fit…