Router table insert

[Dibs-h]

So they're charging VAT on cutting the shoulder... :lol:

He did ask how I wished to pay & I did ask, "was cash ok?" The answer was "£3.40 all in per plate." I suspect they aren't charging VAT on the shoulder\recess - but that's not my (or our) headache.

My apologies for chasing you Dibs, but I queried my price too (£6 too low !!) and had a technical query.


Rob

Rob - the amount in the Total Cost field for you is 18.63. Where are you looking that you see £6? Also technical query - post it up (might be of value to the others) or by PM. Whatever suits.

Sorry - realised you meant it's low by £6 and not £6 (which you think is too low).

 

[OldWood]

Hi Dibs - you must have missed the posting (hardly surprising with the amount of to and froing!) - showing up at 11.36am today.

Rob

 

[Dibs-h]

Hi Dibs - you must have missed the posting (hardly surprising with the amount of to and froing!) - showing up at 11.36am today.

Rob

Right - Google Spreadsheet is all good and well, but a pain to do formulas. I've copied and pasted the numbers into Excel totted stuff up and pasted it back into the online.

I'm fairly confident everyone's should now be correct - there were only a few that were out. :lol:

If you want to double check (probably a good idea)

Dibs

 

[Dibs-h]

Hi Dibs
Done a proper check on the sums for my order and it's not coming out right !

Taking the price per item and totting it up for my order gives £18.36 - you've got £18.63 in the Totals column, which should be £21.58 if it includes VAT.

In fact I've now double checked everything and see your Note which says the Total Cost column includes the VAT and the shoulder machining at £3.40 inc. which should make my Total Cost £24.98.

I also (only now of course!) went back to look at the drawing - what is the pair of holes (6.3 dia) near the shoulder for (one is dimensioned at 97/83 and the other not positioned, and I would have thought should be) ?

Cheers
Rob

Sorry Rob - missed this one. Took a few goes to find it.

The total should now be sorted.

The 2 holes are for the guide pin, one is dimensioned and the other is mirrored (dimensions would be the same). The cutters don't required dimensions on the DXF file, so I removed them all on the file supplied to them, but included a PDF print which has them all, for reference.

So for the M\S plates these holes will come centre marked by laser as will the 4 corner holes. Also 3 lines spaced 15mm apart (running parallel to the long side), 30 mm away from the 90mm hole in the plate. These will assist in aligning any fence\workpiece.

Unfortunately AL doesn't laser mark - so no can do. Did try tho.

 

[Dibs-h]

Just a quick note - don't worry if your entry doesn't say "Paid". I'll be checking every morning and a few times during the day. Can't be checking it all the time - don't want to be seeing my Credit Card bills all day long! :lol: Even tho it gets screwed every June due to insurances for the cars!

I'll be placing the order on Monday 12 July around 11:00am so therefore will be drawing a line under this Group Buy at 09:00 on Monday (12 July).

Sorry for the bold & large print - just don't want anyone to miss this "small print". :lol:

Which will give me a few hours to Triple Check the quantities, etc. I should have them by Friday (16 July) and get them to the CNC shop on Sat (17 July) am, and back by Tuesday (20 July) ('ish). And then out that week. Which ties up nicely on a run down to Brum on 26 July, so could drop some off en route, etc.

We've exceeded the Qty's that the cutters quoted against - so the prices should be valid. If there's any change it should be less - I'll try it on when I place the order (worth a punt) and let all of you know if we manage to blag it a little cheaper.

 

[Dibs-h]

Google just stuffed the Spready!

Here's a backup copy I took earlier.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key= ... y=CKTQrNgO

 

[aesmith]

Anyone else from Aberdeen or Aberdeenshire up for sharing postage?

 

[OldWood]

Tony
I'm buying for a friend in mid-Fife; he used to live in Aberdeen and goes up there fairly frequently - it's a bit of a long string but it might work. It will depend obviously on when delivery starts, but I'm seeing Bob on Friday and will ask if he's any plans for Aberdeen towards the end of the month or the beginning of August which may be more likely.

Rob (Oldwood)
Edinburgh area

 

[Boatfixer]

I dont know where in West Yorkshire you are Dibs but on Friday 23rd I am heading south from Newcastle to Cornwall (near St Austell) with an overnight stop on the Mendips just S of Bristol - if I can take help with getting stuff South then let me know. Just bear in mind I will be towing a boat so don't want to be doing too many detours off the motorway....

Graham

 

[wizer]

Dibs. I can't make payment until the 15th, so feel free to count me out.

 

[Dibs-h]

I dont know where in West Yorkshire you are Dibs but on Friday 23rd I am heading south from Newcastle to Cornwall (near St Austell) with an overnight stop on the Mendips just S of Bristol - if I can take help with getting stuff South then let me know. Just bear in mind I will be towing a boat so don't want to be doing too many detours off the motorway....

Graham

I suspect you'd be going straight down the A1, M18 and then the M1? If so - it would make it a little awkward.

Mind you there's a high probability that I'm doing a Brum run that day - so considering I'm not towing a boat - might cross somewhere along the M1\M42. :lol:

I suppose we'll have to wait & see how the cutters\CNC shop do. I spoke to the cutters yesterday, if as we hope the order is placed on Monday am - they'll do me a Thursday afternoon delivery. Might just get them to the CNC shop on Friday and back on Sat.

I have a question or 2 - the plate screws down and the rings will be screwed to the plate (in some cases). Now as I'm drilling & tapping the plates\rings for a few folk - what's the suggested size for holes to screw the plate down? And what about the ring to plate element - i.e. what size holes and I'm assuming if I have a choice of fine or coarse threaded taps - go with the fine ones?

 

[srp]

M6 csk m/c screws would be adequate to screw the plate down to the table, and T nuts (some people call them prong nuts) are easily obtainable in that size. You could alternatively use woodscrews of course. So a csk clearance hole for M6, 6.25mm or 1/4" in old money would be fine.

If you feel M6 is a bit skinny, then M8 is fine. I would say M10 is far too big and clumsy.

To screw the rings down to the plate I would use M4, or possibly M5, again csk m/c screws, so a 4.2 or 5.2mm clearance hole. Tapping drill for M4 is 3.3mm, and for M5 is 4.2mm.

In both cases I would stick with ordinary metric coarse (the figures above assume metric coarse). Metric fine taps are fairly uncommon so difficult for folks to buy the taps. Pitch for M6 is 1.0mm, and for M4 is 0.7mm. edit - and for M8 is 1.25mm

Axminster sell the T nuts
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-th ... rod828747/

 

[RussianRouter]

M7/M8 for the plate,M6 is far too flimsy for holding a steel plate in wood.


M5 for the Disc.

 

[RussianRouter]

Just had a thought,why are you tapping the plate for securing to the table? countersunk bolts and nuts underneath is far more efficient and secure.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28313/Bol ... Pack-of-50

 

[OldWood]

M7/M8 for the plate,M6 is far too flimsy for holding a steel plate in wood.


M5 for the Disc.

George - with all due respect that is quite unneccessary; I did start off being somewhat more 'positive' in my statement than that :twisted:.

I've a 1500W router on an 8inch MS plate that is 3mm thick - it isn't bolted or screwed down at all, and is held in place by the fence when I'm adjusting the height. Occasionally over the 10 - 15 years of its life I've set out to make it fixed, but then something more interesting comes along and that idea gets put aside.

I'm not saying it shouldn't be fixed, just that experience shows that it doesn't really need it and that if it does, the size of it is far less than you are thinking.

Rob



Rob

 

[aesmith]

Just had a thought,why are you tapping the plate for securing to the table? countersunk bolts and nuts underneath is far more efficient and secure

I don't intend to secure the plate at all. Around 2.5kg of plate plus 5kg of router, sitting in a snug rebate in the table top, that's not going to go anywhere.

 

[Dibs-h]

Just had a thought,why are you tapping the plate for securing to the table? countersunk bolts and nuts underneath is far more efficient and secure.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28313/Bol ... Pack-of-50

George

The tapped holes are in the plate - for the rings\disc to screw to. For fixing the plate to the table - those holes would just be drilled and just countersunk.

This is only for those folk - that I'm doing a favour for. I think they'd rather the ring\disc be screwed down and plate itself be screwed down to the table (unless they want otherwise).

I'll get a some csk m\c screws this Sat and once I find my taps\dies - will have a bit of an experiment\practice.

Dibs

Result: found my tap & dies. Have M6x1, M5x0.8, M4x0.7 amongst others - so should be ok. I was dreading it being in a super safe (& now super secret) place & having to go buy another set.

 

[RussianRouter]

So those who don't bolt down the plate? then why have a plate in the first place? ie why not just cut a hole out wide enough in the table and just buy the disc and cut an reces for the disc.


Whats the idea of not securing the plate in the table?

Well I've made the motorised router lift in wood and it works but I'm now putting it to phase 2 and thats purchasing cheap 20mm ally plate off ebay
and making the chassis in aluminium and using a stepper motor for precise increment heights.

Found a circuit that can drive the stepper motor and operate via push button for raising it,a switch to reverse or forward the motor ie raise or lower,and potentiometer for adjusting the speed.

Beats paying £60 fo an over priced extension shaft.

 

[OldWood]

Whats the idea of not securing the plate in the table?

Originally laziness - I wanted to see how the table worked when I built it, and never got round to drilling the plate and putting in screws as it worked perfectly well without them - and has continued to do so.

The reason for the plate was to give me a surface to mount the router to so that it could be easily removed from the table.

Rob

 

[peter99]

Lets not get hung up on the thread / diameter of the set screw etc fixing the plate down.

Remember, if you strap a buildings walls you generally use no 12 screws in 7mm brown rawlplugs to do it and any structural engineer will tell you that those screws will withstand any force pulling on them, even directly laterally pulling on the heads, that the strapping (much thicker than the screws) can exert.

The medium they are fixed to and not overtightening them (but tightening them to a felt resistance) is much more important.

3mm dia set screws will hold anything you put the plate through metal to metal. Hard part is 3mm into a wooden bench gaining purchase.

This is not posted to extend the thread into a mathmatical argument, solely to put it all into perspective. Size within reason irrelevent, how you do it and what into deffo is.

peter