Router insert plate

[Scruples]

Hi all

I have a cheap and cheerful, free-standing router table. I use a 1/2" router. It works OK but I'd like to get something a little better, so -

Is a 10mm thick aluminium plate the thing to go for?
Is a 1/2" router really necessary for small, light routing or would a 1/4" router bo OK for most projects? (mine is hobby stuff with ply and pine mostly, although I have a slab of mahogany waiting for a project).
I can see that it makes life easier to have a router lift. Are they worth it and do they give you better setting and control of router height?
Are there any other DIYers out there that have got router inserts, with a lift, who could recommend their choices?

Any helpful information or recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Spectric]

You will find a 1/2 router with the added power so much easier to use and get good results. 1/2 shank cutters are more rigid and come in larger sizes so you are not restricted in what you can do, even a 1/2 router on some jobs needs multiple passes so leave the smaller router to those hand held smaller jobs.

 

[HOJ]

I would suggest thinking more about your intended needs, demands and intentions, the more you rely on a router and its capabilities, the more in the way of an investment you may need to make.

However, I'm not a diyer so don't qualify, and most "woodworkers" would be horrified with my setup's, I have a little 1/4" DeWalt mains router jammed in a home made table in my shop for small work, like edge chamfering/rounding over etc, I also use various other bits and do slot cutting, key holes and just about anything else that only needs small diameter bits, works a treat and the cutters are fairly cheap to buy.

It only has a thinnish steel plate it's bolted to (on a simple leg/box that I can easily pick up and move around and put away) along with a shiny piece of MFC on the top, the fence, again shop made, is just clamped on, never felt a need for a lift thingy, and don't have an issue with setting it up, cost me a big fat £0

My other option is a Makita 1/4" battery one, which I also use, and have been known to jam that in my vice to make it work like a table top version.

However, I also have a 1/2" router in another homemade table, using the same principals but fixed to a 6mm steel plate, for more demanding heavier work, but behind them I have 2 spindle moulders for when things get really big and serious.

 

[meccarroll]

The above is has some good suggestions to start with.

For small mouldings or grooves a 1/4" router normally copes ok, for heavy work a 1/2" router might perform better.

Both 1/4" and 1/2" routers come with a wide range of motor sizes, also some do and some don't have speed control. Some have better height adjustment and depth stops.

You need to pick a router that will suite most if not all of your intended work.

When I make ply templates I like to use a 1/2" router but when I am moulding I will mostly use a 1/4" router.

If you use a 1/2" router you can normally use a step down bush to 1/4" but not the other way around.

Out of the two I'd probably go 1/2" if I had to make a choice between the two.

Ps: I'm in the trade not DIY.

 

[recipio]

I have two router tables for 1/2" and 1/4 " routers. In practice I use the 1/4" about 90% of the time. I have a Makita RP1111C installed which has an 1100 watt motor. Starting out I would prioritize motor power over everything else although I appreciate it's not exactly cheap.
One advantage is being able to use 8 mm bits which are stiffer than 1/4" . You also need variable speed for the bigger bits.
If making a DIY table an insert plate is worth the investment to maximise router travel . Install a switched plug on the table which saves having to reach underneath all the time to use the router.
A lift is nice but not essential. I splurged out for a Woodmaster lift for the 1/2" but find it hard to use. The ' bicycle chain ' mechanism is continuously clogged with wood dust. It will remain in place for the moment because the upmarket lifts like Jessem are serious money.
Think about the fence. I have on old Veritas fence on the 1/4" table and have to use playing cards to shim out the out feed table all the time.
The only adjustable fence I know of is the Jessem TA fence which is only suitable for bigger tables and again serious money.
Just my tuppence worth on how I would approach the problem. Good luck.