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kirk,
We call them circlips, snap rings are a different beast over here!
The idiosyncrasies of English eh!

I had to fix the rise & fall on a Felder combination m/c today, that was held together with a circlip, I have always hated them since I was an apprentice, however, I bought a few sets of different sizes of expensive quality circlip pliers, and have never looked back, however, please remember they earn me a living!

wcndave,
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-8688 ... B000WTJPGY
These will not last much more than a job or 2 I suspect!
Also you may have issues if the clips are tight.
If the clip is on the outside of a shaft you need an expanding type, external, if it in the inside of a housing you need a contracting type, internal.
As kirk has already said you can get sets that do both, mine are one such set.
 
If you are having trouble removing those clips I can assure putting them back is worse!
As stated, circlip pliers make it (relatively) easy.
PS. It may be too late now but that shaft is repairable.

Roy.
 
lots of replies, excellent! I have ordered some of the plier - should have looked before, now have to wait another 10 days before i can get going again - should have ordered them at the same time as the replacement shaft.

Roy - repairable how? I don't really have any metalworking tools here...
 
Repairable by a machine shop, they would weld the end and recut. Cheaper than new I suspect.

Roy.
 
well, update is that my circlip pliers arrived, and after a LOT of gruntng and pain and bruised knuckles, i got them off... whoever said putting them on was harder - not arf - as fluff would have said...

trying to get to all the various bolts, after taking half the housing off the motor, and not messing the thing up, and keeping it true... a real struggle. I can tell you when i turned it on to test, i didn't half stand back a bit.

putting back the sides, the riving knife etc was also fun, had to take the starter switch off, the rise indicator doesn't work so have removed that cable as was getting in way of blade, however it seems to run true, and is very very quiet.. i had forgotten how quiet it was. it does stop rather quickly which worries me that something is rubbing, and there was that gouge out of the underneath of the table, which i have no idea what caused it....

now i just have to square up the top, put all the extension tables on and square / parallel them, then the sliding table, all with hundreds of impossible to reach bolts that require disassembly, slight adjustment, reassembly, then retest and repeat about 50 times :(

however it is at least getting there, and working. god knows how it got in such a mess, the pulley / key assembly on the new spindle is very tight indeed and removing the bolt, i could not take it off by hand, so there must been a hell of a force for a long long time to mess it up so bad... I guess i will check it every few months, it's just such a pain to get to in order to inspect.

thanks so much for all your help, almost a happy ending!
 
wcndave":tmxrciks said:
... however it seems to run true, and is very very quiet.. i had forgotten how quiet it was. it does stop rather quickly which worries me that something is rubbing, and there was that gouge out of the underneath of the table, which i have no idea what caused it....
...
thanks so much for all your help, almost a happy ending!


Dave:

New bearings stop quicker than old bearings due to all that nice new squishy grease in there. (Worn out bearings are another matter.) However, you should also check your belt tension befor you put the top back on. You should be able to push on the belt between the pulleys and deflect it some, say the thickness of the belt or a little more. Too tight and you'll wear out your bearings quickly, too loose and the belt will slip. I'd err on the loose side--if the blade stops, you can always tighten it up.

Kirk
 
kirkpoore1":2yx3k3b3 said:
New bearings stop quicker than old bearings due to all that nice new squishy grease in there. (Worn out bearings are another matter.) However, you should also check your belt tension befor you put the top back on. You should be able to push on the belt between the pulleys and deflect it some, say the thickness of the belt or a little more. Too tight and you'll wear out your bearings quickly, too loose and the belt will slip. I'd err on the loose side--if the blade stops, you can always tighten it up.

it's more like 1" slack, however seems fine, and given the belt / pulleys have ridges to keep it in place seems ok.
Thanks for putting my mind at rest regarding the quicker stopping!

long weekend coming up, so 4 days should be just enough to get it all square and set up again..
 
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