Roof rack advice - suitability for carrying lumber as well as roof box?

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Pallet Fancier

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Hi folks,

I recently changed the car and now I have flush rails, so now I need a new roof rack!

I will not be carrying bikes up there (got a rack for the back of the car that does that) but I will probably be getting a roof box next year. But the first loads will be a Christmas tree, and then lengths of lumber of various sizes.

This last is important because I was just about to buy a set of aerofoil aluminium bars, but when I looked at the cross section diagram, I wondered if the aerofoil shape (not a flat plane) would be a problem when laying planks on it. Also, many of these designs have rubber strips, or rubber wind deflector strips, designed to keep them quiet at high speeds, and I wondered if a load of wood could flatten and damage this rubber.

Anyone got any experience and recommendations?

I was looking at these when I had the above thoughts:
https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/r...71&vptype=585270&brand=Atera RTD&prodid=33171

Cheers
 
I think there is enough flat to work with and assuming the wood won't be on the roof for months don't think the rubber will be deformed permanently. Maybe torn dragging rough boards on and off.

What got my attention is this statement in the specs.
  • Load carrying weight 100kg but please be guided by the maximum permitted roof loading limit of your vehicle!
What is the maximum load your roof is able to handle? And, will that cover the weights of wood you plan on tying up there?

Pete
 
Tbh it comes down to what sizes you are likely to transport, especially the length and how often. I get most of mine within my car (max 3mtrs but 2.4 is a lot easier. The roof rack you linked only seems to span a meter or so leaving 2 mtrs of a 3 mtr length unsupported..
 
I
Hi folks,

I recently changed the car and now I have flush rails, so now I need a new roof rack!

I will not be carrying bikes up there (got a rack for the back of the car that does that) but I will probably be getting a roof box next year. But the first loads will be a Christmas tree, and then lengths of lumber of various sizes.

This last is important because I was just about to buy a set of aerofoil aluminium bars, but when I looked at the cross section diagram, I wondered if the aerofoil shape (not a flat plane) would be a problem when laying planks on it. Also, many of these designs have rubber strips, or rubber wind deflector strips, designed to keep them quiet at high speeds, and I wondered if a load of wood could flatten and damage this rubber.

Anyone got any experience and recommendations?

I was looking at these when I had the above thoughts:
https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/r...71&vptype=585270&brand=Atera RTD&prodid=33171

Cheers
I've had cheaper versions before no problem.
You have to be carefuL not to over load them. 4" deep timber evenly spaced 8ft long was the maximum I reckoned iirc.
 
I
Tbh it comes down to what sizes you are likely to transport, especially the length and how often. I get most of mine within my car (max 3mtrs but 2.4 is a lot easier. The roof rack you linked only seems to span a meter or so leaving 2 mtrs of a 3 mtr length unsupported..
You put them at each end of the rails it's more like 1.5m
 
I think there is enough flat to work with and assuming the wood won't be on the roof for months don't think the rubber will be deformed permanently. Maybe torn dragging rough boards on and off.

What got my attention is this statement in the specs.
  • Load carrying weight 100kg but please be guided by the maximum permitted roof loading limit of your vehicle!
What is the maximum load your roof is able to handle? And, will that cover the weights of wood you plan on tying up there?

Pete

Oh, I'm not getting ambitious about the weight. This will just be for awkward loads such as xmas trees and lengths that won't fit inside. I have a couple of scaffolding boards I'll need to move, and some other long bits, but never too many all at once!

Max load for the new car is given as 75kg, but I was looking at the these bars (even though they're 100kg) partly for design reasons: I like the torque wrench method of attaching this one (no spanners needed) and the idea of not whistling down the motorway when the roof box is up there. And a few extra kgs of weight allowance can't hurt. Makes the bars stiffer, if nothing else.
 
I
You put them at each end of the rails it's more like 1.5m
I think the pictures of the bars are shown with them fitted close together so that the photographer could get them both neatly within the picture for a closeup. If you have the distance on the roof, they can go as far apart as the rails will allow.
 
Thanks for the replies. I think my biggest concern is whether I need to stick with the old fashioned steel bars (which are flat on their sides with no rubber bits) or whether I can look at the modern aerofoil aluminium bars (which are not flat on their sides, and have rubber bits). I worry about damaging the aluminium bars when sliding planks on and off.
 
I would take the 75kg limit with a pinch of salt - that is the limit on the classic range rover I had yet we still had a huge roofrack and 6 people on top shooting clays at one point - together we might have been over 75kg ;)

biggest issue with wood on the roof is air pushing it up, whatever you do make sure you can strap down at the ends as well as in the middle.
 
I s
Thanks for the replies. I think my biggest concern is whether I need to stick with the old fashioned steel bars (which are flat on their sides with no rubber bits) or whether I can look at the modern aerofoil aluminium bars (which are not flat on their sides, and have rubber bits). I worry about damaging the aluminium bars when sliding planks on and off.
I abused mine tbh.
 
Roof racks! A nightmare!! So first off, check they are crash tested and not just cheapo carp. If they are crash tested, they will take the load that is stated not come off in crash. The best solution is to buy bars from one of the major manufacturers, like Thule (I used to compete against them making roof load carry systems……can’t believe I’m actually recommending them🤣) So, don’t worry, about the load. Next, NEVER EVER exceed the maximum roof loading, you might hear that roof will take X, but they won’t! The total load includes the weight of the roof rack / bars. So your car will take 75KG, but you can only carry 75KG minus the weight of the roof bars / rack. Everything is optimised to reduce vehicle weight, including the roof load.
 
I would take the 75kg limit with a pinch of salt - that is the limit on the classic range rover I had yet we still had a huge roofrack and 6 people on top shooting clays at one point - together we might have been over 75kg ;)

biggest issue with wood on the roof is air pushing it up, whatever you do make sure you can strap down at the ends as well as in the middle.
I was going to comment. Roof loading has two values. The static load and the dynamic load. It is the dynamic load you actual need to consider when you are driving. Also long boards will create a large lever effect.
 
Aero bars may reduce drag, but plastic coated square steel bars removed when not in use are more economical and less easily damaged, the question has to be will you be carrying them in the car 'just in case' as I do, or leaving them on the roof?
 
I've carried 4.8m length on a roof rack before now. I wouldn't go down a motorway but a few miles home isn't a problem as long as you tie the front and back down so they aren't whipping up and down. At the end of the day it comes down to what you believe to be safe (and what the police/insurance would deem safe) as there is no actual rule on it (to my knowledge) other than having to put something on the end if it sticks out past a certain distance. As with all towing/carrying it is your responsibility to ensure the safety of others.

As for square bars or curved unless the bars are designed to sit perfectly inline with each other I think you may well find that square bars aren't flat in use. On my other halfs Polo due to the curve of the roofline neither bar sits flat, with the front one slightly tipped forward and the rear one tipped backwards. Which means you are actually putting the load on the edge of both of the bars. Although to be fair they probably twist flat a bit. Never caused me a problem though.
 
I've carried 4.8m length on a roof rack before now. I wouldn't go down a motorway but a few miles home isn't a problem as long as you tie the front and back down so they aren't whipping up and down. At the end of the day it comes down to what you believe to be safe (and what the police/insurance would deem safe) as there is no actual rule on it (to my knowledge) other than having to put something on the end if it sticks out past a certain distance. As with all towing/carrying it is your responsibility to ensure the safety of others.

As for square bars or curved unless the bars are designed to sit perfectly inline with each other I think you may well find that square bars aren't flat in use. On my other halfs Polo due to the curve of the roofline neither bar sits flat, with the front one slightly tipped forward and the rear one tipped backwards. Which means you are actually putting the load on the edge of both of the bars. Although to be fair they probably twist flat a bit. Never caused me a problem though.
I agree that it shouldn't be a problem if you can tie it down front and back. Not sure how easy that would be on our vehicle.
 
2021-05-02 13.57.21.jpg


My usual steed for moving wood around (and anything else!) - the roof rack is particularly good as wood slides between the bars and is effectively clamped by them - I will happily carry a lot of 5m length wood on the roof - tied down at the back to the tow-hitch, and at the front to the towing eye. When it comes to 4x8 of plywood etc - it slides straight into the boot.

My wife's 4x4 has normal thule roof bars and it is really limited in contrast - I wouldn't put anything long or heavy on it
 
Definitely recommend the Thule aero bars. Got a second hand set of bars and then used brackets specific to my car, Passat saloon, for around £100. The way it connects to the car is far superior to the cheap roof racks, around £80 new, that I have bought previously. I had 24 lengths of 3x2 on the roof only this week no problem. They are pretty tough. Also invest in decent quality ratchet straps and carrying stuff on the roof is rarely a chore.
 
Just to add I always keep in mind public safety when transporting long items. Pay particular attention to the front tie downs etc if they were to come loose and the board/plank moved sideways you now have a lance with which to kill pedestrians or car drivers coming the opposite direction.

I never understand when I'm towing or carrying things on the roof why people tail gate. I don't tailgate anyway but stay even further back if someone has a load on, never know if something is likely to fly off.
 
View attachment 193742

My usual steed for moving wood around (and anything else!) - the roof rack is particularly good as wood slides between the bars and is effectively clamped by them - I will happily carry a lot of 5m length wood on the roof - tied down at the back to the tow-hitch, and at the front to the towing eye. When it comes to 4x8 of plywood etc - it slides straight into the boot.

My wife's 4x4 has normal thule roof bars and it is really limited in contrast - I wouldn't put anything long or heavy on it
It’s surprising what you can get in a roof rack or partly on it at least 😜
IMG_1368.jpeg
 

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