Reynolds Hand Morticer c 1875

[condeesteso]

what ML7?
I will test the linseed turps on an area. It's going to take time anyway, I have to give it low priority re other things I need to get done, but it is covered and lubricated so safe for now.
re chip clearance I imagine blind mortices likely to be tricky then. The other 12 chisel-bits I found available are all straight too.
If I ever became convinced what the original colour really was it may one day get a re-paint, but I wouldn't want it 'shiny'.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Condo

Check under bolt heads/covers for the orignal paint.

Pete

 

[AndyT]

what ML7?

I think we have just seen a drive-by gloat by proxy!!

If you are too busy with two new toys at once, let Jim take some photos of it while it's still sunny and start a new thread for it!

 

[condeesteso]

Pete - the under the bolts is a good idea. I see I am going to have to spend time on this morticer sooner than planned.
O.K., I own up, a few days before, I got a 1953 Myford ML7, with an array of tools and accessories, many of which point to very precise work having been done on it, by a real toolmaker type.

I may be mentioning the ML7 later, but once it is properly installed the components for the long-awaited large (600mm) frame / bow saw are high on the need list.
On the morticer I am chasing the other 12 chisel-bits for it so will hopefully get those, and add versatility to what is already a really effective tool.

 

[bugbear]

Hi, Condo

Check under bolt heads/covers for the orignal paint.

Pete

Yes - Restorers often find area of original paint during disassembly - they look out for it.

BugBear

 

[marcros]

Douglas, your review was enough to persuade me...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 500wt_1277

 

[jimi43]

Douglas, your review was enough to persuade me...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 500wt_1277

Good LORD Mark...fifteen squids! A bargain!

The X-Y table on these things is superb..no backlash nor play at all in Douglas' one after over 100 years! Amazing bargain

WIP for the restoration please!!!

Jim

 

[condeesteso]

excellent find Mark, with chisels (plural) too. I'm still trying to contact the man down here with a spare dozen for mine. Not had time to do anything with it yet, what with going to see the Queen and making vices and all.
Pics when I start cleaning it up.

 

[marcros]

Douglas,

Any ideas what your morticer might weigh?

Mark

 

[custard]

Condeesteso, what a magnificant machine. Good for you for rescuing it. Keep us posted on progress!

 

[condeesteso]

Hi Custard - yes indeed, it's in excellent shape technically. As discussed I may 'restore' it a bit some time, but just managed to track down the man with a dozen chisel bits for it, £20 plus postage, done! And the definitely came off a Reynolds as he still has the arm (for some reason unknown) and it is marked the same. I'm sure I can get this working well now.
re weight Marcros - sorry being so slow responding - my guess is 100Kg... or four bags o' taters.

 

[condeesteso]

Here's an interesting one, belt drive. I found this on display in Saltaire Mill, surrounded by the work of David Hockney. It's a chain and chisel morticer.

Apart from the belt drive and being heftier in all respects, it is very similar to the hand morticers here - xy bed etc.
It is fitted with a square chisel with boring bit down centre. As far as I could tell the left lever controls the cut, the right is presumably the clutch (could be the other and more logical way round though)... I didn't have long to examine it!

Nice to see it was made about 7 miles away, and was very likely used in the mill - one of the biggest woollen mills in the area, just down the road from Bronte's Hawarth, and all powered by the River Aire.

 

[Benchwayze]

this one is a very dull 'drab-crab' red.

You might want to be a bit careful with that finish.

From the colour it sounds as though somebody might have given it a coat of lead primer at some time.

In my youth, Zebrite was called 'Black-Lead'... Not without reason either! 8)

 

[AndyT]

Interesting post Douglas - are you thinking of expanding your collection? :wink:

 

[marcros]

Douglas

Think you got a good deal, considering this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodworking-M ... 500wt_1043

Mark

 

[marcros]

Douglas,

I have had a play with my 1910 model tonight. Seems a good bit of kit. I can only use one chisel on mine, because I have no idea how to remove the thing. Any ideas- all look like they have been struck on the corners below the taper before. I only had a quick go on a lump of softwood- made a reasonable job, although those fluted chisels that you have may be tidier. If I had marked out the mortice first it would have been a better trial. Chip clearance, like you identified is a slight issue.

Also, the chisels have been ground so that rather than triangular in cross section like a pig sticker from the side, they look more like a finger- is this what is meant by a rounded bevel. The bevel is curved like the finger tip Is either more correct than the other?

Mark

 

[Cheshirechappie]

To remove the chisel, there may be a trick adaptable from the method used to remove the taper spindle from drill chucks.

You'll need two steel wedges, with a slot filed in each so that they look like two-pronged forks. The legs of the fork fit neatly over the root of the chisel's taper where it seats in the machine's socket - exact dimensions to suit the job, of course. Mild steel should do fine, but if you happen to have some ground flat stock or similar, even better. File the faces of the two wedges to a very slow taper. Then insert one from either side of the chisel, and tap them together to remove the chisel from the socket. Won't take much if the taper on the wedges is nice and slow, though if the chisel has been in the socket for a while, breaking the seat might take a thwack or two.

 

[kirkpoore1]

To remove the chisel, there may be a trick adaptable from the method used to remove the taper spindle from drill chucks.

You'll need two steel wedges, with a slot filed in each so that they look like two-pronged forks. ...

They look like this:

The problem is finding the correct size if you plan to buy them (and, really, they're pretty cheap). The "legs" are quite narrow, so the slot must be close to the chisel or it won't work. An alternative that I've seen mentioned on OWWM is to clamp onto the chisel near the top with a pair of visegrips, and then hit sideways with a hammer to twist the chisel. All you need is to get it moving in some direction, and it will be most of the battle.

Kirk

 

[marcros]

Ah great.

I have a bit of gauge plate so could probably make a pair quite easily. Chat are they actually called if I was to search for some? I dont have any vice grips- theya re also on the long list of tools that I could do with getting- perhaps they will be promoted to the top!

It shouldnt be stuck too fast in there- I only put it in last night and chopped into some 4x2 softwood a few times. I just didnt want to go hitting everything with hammers which would either make things worse, or risk damaging them..

 

[Cheshirechappie]

www.arceurotrade.co.uk stock them, calling them 'chuck removal wedges'. They do four sizes, 12mm, 15.5mm, 19.2mm and 21.9mm between forks, at £4.85 a pair plus the dreaded p&p. I didn't see vice grips in the catalogue, but they do have a selction of diamond tooling at reasonable prices, including 0.5 micron lapping paste at £3.68 a tube.

Other possible sources would be the big engineer's merchants such as Cromwell Tools, J&L Industrial and so on, but they may be pricier.