Although the Veritas Jack Rabbet can trace its roots to the #10 ..... actually think of it as the offspring of the #10 and the #62 .... it has as much in common with the #10 as Jacob has with hollow grinding
This is a thoroughly modern plane. In fact it would be science fantasy to a furniture maker in the 17th century. Is it expensive?
Just think of the number of planes it can replace ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
I don't wish to detract from such a good review, or hand plane, but would however like to air a word or three of caution regarding the reply to Anaminal's query.
Stanley said something very similar to Derek's "Just think of the number of planes it can replace ..." when they introduced their #55 Universal Combination Plane as 55 planes in 1. Although a great plane in it's own right,
a multi-tasker will seldom out perform the job specific planes it's intended to replace. This was the case with the #55 and can be the case with #10 derivatives if you expect them to be capable of outrunning plane types you hope it can emulate. Good enough to use occasionally on work outside their normal range, but nowhere near as good as job specific planes.
The last point needs to be recognised and highlighted before making recommendations regarding any tool and especially so if they're targetted toward newcomers.
One downside to buying a #10 derivative (
ESPECIALLY if intended as a first and only plane) is the fact it
isn't especially suited for use with the shooting board, or for cross-grain facing work on raised panels. A second & third blade/iron would also prove necessary if one wishes to use this plane as a crossover between jack and smoothing plane. If working with a single blade on hand and retaining this plane type for it's intended use in rebate work -
the single iron will need to be honed square and true without round-over on it's corners. Hence the need for additional blades/irons.
Yet another downside to working with a single plane is the fact you
continually find yourself needing to re-set/adjust the iron to suit the cut needed during use if working various aspects on a project. Not a good trait if you wish to quickly rough a surface into true using a #5 jack setting, then quickly plane some end grain, before smoothing your work piece using a #4 smoother setting. You won't be able to set the plane up and retain a constant setting, so will naturally tend to become disenchanted by repeatedly needing to set and re-set your plane.
In the case of a learner, this breaks concentration and has him/her awkwardly attempting to gain the best performance from the same plane using multiple settings, instead of one. I'd much rather to teach a learner how to use a single plane - using a single setting - extremely well, rather than have the same learner endure unnecessary frustration in trying to coax the performance of a #04, #05, #9.5/60.5, #713, et al, from a plane intended for use on rebate work.
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Having said all of that, I sincerely enjoyed test-driving both Lie-Nielsen & Veritas various takes on the #10 and found both maker's examples very easy to work with. However, I would not recommend either as a first hand plane, but instead would chose a #4 and #5 as a pair of planes (Bevel down or bevel up) to initially invest in. Then a #9.5/#60.5 block plane and perhaps a #078/#778 rebate/fillister plane and basic plough/combination plane (A second hand #044 or #050) if you find yourself pursuing a route where you'll need them.
In other words, I'd buy a straight forward #5 jack plane AND a #4 smoothing plane as part of a starter kit.
