Required woodworking tools/machinery. Opinions please

[Pond]

Hello,

As I have mentioned previously, I wish to build my own kitchen in the very near future from (probably) american oak.

I have a lovely new 8.5m x 6m workshop (or 'garage' as my wife likes to call it) and want to furnish it with some lovely new woodworking machinery and tools!!

I have not done any proper woodworking before; only hung doors, made a fire surround a while ago, that sort of thing.

I have made a list of tools which I anticipate needing. What I'm after is opinions on whether my choices are sound, or should I consider others?

I already have:

Dewalt 700 compound mitre saw
Trend 1/4" hand router (with a knackered on/off switch)
Erbauer 1/2" 2100w router
belt sander

I think I will need:

Axminster TS200 table saw (or similar)
Dakota router table with stand and featherboards
2 roller stands
2 3ft sash clamps
4 500mm F clamps
2 7" vices (to attach to a workbench I will make)
small worktop planer/ thicknesser (not sure about this, depending whattimber I buy)
Router cutters to suit
new set of hand chisels (my existing have been abused a bit!)
mortice and tenon jig
dovetail jig
Dust extractor (probably wet and dry hoover type)

All opinions on what is good/bad, anything I've missed, anything I won't really need will be greatfully received.

Thanks

Andy

 

[RogerS]

If you buy a table saw for ripping down timber to width then how are you proposing to get all four sides square if your planer/thicknesser is optional?

 

[Pond]

Hi,

Good point.

I was thinking if I get my timber PARed I won't need a thicknesser, but if I buy sawn timber I would.

Could I not rip two sides and use a mitre saw for the other two if I need to?

As you can tell, at the moment I'm a 'all the gear no idea' kind of a guy!

This is why I'm asking all you Oracles lots of stupid questions! Knowledge is power, you know! :?

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Hi Andy,

Firstly I would say that I reckon you would save yourself a pretty penny if you made yourself a router table rather than buying one in, it will be just as good, and you won't have to shell out more than the price of some mdf. It'll be just as useable, especially for one job, and then if needs must you can upgrade it if you still want.

Secondly, I reckon you will usually (no always) find it easier with a few more clamps than you have accounted for. One handed quick grips are very handy, Irwin do some decent ones (see here). Also F-clamps/ cramps are handy.

There are plenty of decent shop vacs about, I've just upgraded to a Nilfisk-Alto, which I've heard is very good, but not had a chance to use it yet. So now I have a Makita 440 Wet/ Dry shop-vac with auto-power take off (see here) if you are interested? It still works fine, and I'll send you some pics and a price if you want. Just let me know.

Good luck mate, if you have any questions don't be afraid to pose them on here, this lot are very knowledgable!

Cheers _Dan.

 

[Pond]

Dan,

People have said about making a router table before and I have a friend who's a carpenter said the same thing. The problem I have is until I use a table, having never used one before, I don't know what I need and what I don't.

I would have no idea where to get ali 'U' channel for feather boards to locate, or where to purchase things like the cutter shield or extraction port! The only place I've seen the individual items sold is Rutlands and these add up to more than the complete table!!

I was going to buy a phenolic board with pre-cut cutter hole, with pre-made fences and U channels. When I get accustomed to using it and know what I need it to do or not do, I can then customise it to my requirements. A pre-made table will cost me £90 from Rutlands, so quite a cheap way of getting the basics needed!?

The Makita vac you have is the one I was actually looking at. Please PM or email me a price. I will have to check but I think my big router is 2100w, so is right on the limit of the power take off from the vac!

Andy

 

[OPJ]

I wouldn't worry too much about building your 'ultimate' router table right away - as you say; without having used one, you won't know exactly what you require from it. I don't think you'd go far wrong with one of the tables from Rutlands. If there's anything you don't like, you should be able to modify it as you please. Guards, featherboards etc. can easily be made from scraps of MDF and ply - no need to make any great expense, there. I don't believe that T-tracks in the table top are entirely necessary either, since it's difficult to set the fence up perfectly parallel to the track - in most cases, you can get better results with a jig that runs against the fence, anyway. There's nothing wrong with a few carefully positioned holes, with flange or T-nuts fitted underneath.

 

[JonnyD]

I have a workshop just outside of Boston and your more than welcome to pop in for a cuppa and chat about things if you want too.

cheers

Jon

 

[awkwood]

My advise is buy the best table saw and planer/ thicknesser you can afford first, These two machine do all the hard work so dont skimp on the basics

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Basically all you need to get by in regards to a router table Andy, is; a flat surface that you can either clamp a fence down to, or screw down. MDF is fine for a router table, just mount the router underneath either using a Router Table Insert that can be bought from many places, Axi, Rutlands or similar Or just get a router collet extension and mount directly to the MDF. You can hold featherboards etc with clamps or screws, IMHO there's no need going buying one when you can save some dollar and make your own, and it'll probably do you for ages. If you do find that it's not what you're after then modify it to suit your needs.

Just my two penneth, each to his own of course. (but more clamps will definitely be a help to you)

Cheers _Dan.

 

[Pond]

Jon, thanks for the offer, i might just do that.

I think I will make my own router table, as I am going to make a bench with an MDF top anyway. See you lot have saved me £100 already and I haven't started yet!

Another question:

what is the difference between a planer, a thicknesser and a planer/thicknesser? I really don't know anything do I??

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

If I were you I would definitely take Jon up on his offer. He'll explain what you need and probably save you a pretty penny. I'll pm you the details of the Makita 'shop vac tomorrow Andy.

Cheers _Dan.

 

[János]

Hello,

What you really need is a band saw (bigger the better), a jointer (8” is wide enough), and a thickness planer, or a combination planer/thicknesser, albeit two separate machines are better.

The most important piece of equipment is a quality workbench: a traditional, full sized joiner’s bench is the best.

I own a Kity circular saw, and in my opinion this machine would be a bad choice. But you can find my view in a different thread:
advice-please-site-saw-benches-versus-workshop-versions-t47393.html

And forgot those jig things, and learn the proper hand working methods instead: far more enjoyment and fun.

By,

János

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Hi Andy,

I think I'm going to keep hold of the Makita 'shop vac for a while, until I move into my new workshop and get the layout sorted, it may still prove to be useful to me. Sorry!
But there are plenty of decent shop-vacs out there, make sure you get one with 'Power-Take-Off' so the vacuum starts automatically when you start the powertool connected to it.

Cheers _Dan.

 

[Pond]

And forgot those jig things, and learn the proper hand working methods instead: far more enjoyment and fun.

I want it done in six months, not six years!! :wink:

 

[Pond]

Dan,

No problem. I'm sure i will find one