replacing the miter slot on a DW744 with a t-slot

[ydb1md]

Has anyone tried replacing the miter slot on a DW744 with a t-slot? A better (larger) saw would come with a proper t-slot but a larger saw in my small shop isn't an option.

To install a t-slot, I'd have to rout a 1-1/8" wide x 3/4" slot in the saws aluminum top and epoxy the t-slot into place.

 

[MikeW]

Hi ydb,

I had thought of doing this to a Rigid I had. After looking at it and thinking more about it I decided not to do so as I think it would substantially weaken the top.

However, I think the newer version, DW746, now comes with the T-slot. Have you contacted them to see if a new top would bolt in place?

 

[ydb1md]

Hmmmm . . . good question.

Thanks for the tip!

I love everything about my dw744 except its inability to crosscut wide boards. I put my dw744 on a mobile base to give me storage and better dust collection.

 

[ydb1md]

I checked and the dw746 is their larger contractor style -- not really interchangeable with the 744. I'm probably going to go ahead and order some t-track and give the modification a "go". It might weaken the top a little but once I epoxy the t-track in place, I'll recoup some of that rigidity. :roll:

 

[MikeW]

...I love everything about my dw744 except its inability to crosscut wide boards...

Hi ydb,

I'm in the same boat but with a small Rigid I bought for remodeling our house several years ago.

fwiw, I use a cross cut sled which even without a t-slot, is wider to the right of the blade by about 6 or so inches and this allows me to crosscut a 10" board without difficulty. Any wider (or too long) I use the sliding miter.

In either case, I use a shooting board to ensure the final product is square (or whatever angle needed). ymmv.

 

[ydb1md]

Mike,

I can sympathize. I've got a cross cutting sled which has helped a lot. I have to make the occasional 24 or 36" crosscut which is impossible using my miter gauge or the sled. So, I freehand it and go back with a plane or whatever to square up the cut.

Because the saw is direct drive, the runout on the motor arbor doesn't give me a clean edge on my cuts. The list goes on and on . . .

I think I've reached the maximum capability of my saw and it's starting to frustrate me. I'm just not sure what to do given my space constraints. ](*,)

 

[MikeW]

Another fwiw...If you have the money I would recommend the Festool saw with the guide.

If that's not in the budget, a homemade guide and circular saw can be very effective. That's what I have for when I need to trim doors or desktops down. A couple swipes with a plane and or sanding smoothes the cut marks right quick.

As for a power tool option, I'm saving my pennies for the Festool option. I borrow one occassionaly and there's not much to clean up after it.

 

[AndyBoyd]

I've got a mate who epoxied in a piece of hardwood into the mitre slot , and routed in a T slot into the hardwood, seems to work fine, and it it breaks he just replaces the wood.

I think his T slot is smaller than the standard ones as it takes M4 bolts but it works a treat

Just a thought.