Replacing stairs

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Rich C

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The stairs in my house are in a pretty poor state. They're currently carpeted but we'd like to change them to wooden treads with white risers.
I've pulled the carpet off a few and there is all manner of monkey business hidden - large holes drilled in the risers, at least one of the winder treads is split through and held together with a bit of hardboard nailed to the top.

Given this, I'm thinking the best bet is replacing the treads and risers with new parts, oak for the treads, cheaper wood (since they'll be painted) for the risers.
Are there any gotchas with pulling them out and fitting new? The staircase is closed string, with a two step 90° winder. I can get at the bottom by pulling down the ceiling in the cupboard under the stairs, I assume this will be necessary.
 
It might be sensible to replace them one at a time, rather than try to remove all the treads and risers at once. This will help to keep the strings and newels correctly orientated. You might have fun getting the old woodwork cleanly out of the housings, and it is there that I'd be focusing my attention at the moment. If you can't be confident of doing that, and leaving access for the new ones to fit in, then it's going to be difficult. Think about each step, particularly the kites, and imagine fitting the new one in. If it can be done in the space available, then yep, go ahead. New stairs can transform the place.
 
I think your chances of a satisfactory outcome rest on the quality of the existing work, and as Mike says the task of removing wedges and treads/ risers while leaving the strings intact. I would expect it to be much more satisfactory, quicker, and easier to make a new flight and simply remove the old and install the new. I made one a while ago using southern yellow pine for the strings with oak treads, handrails and newels. The risers were pine faced plywood. The result was very striking and created a great impression on entering the house. Beat of luck with the project. My only concern is the need for a none slip finish to the treads. Oak looks nice but it can hurt!
 
I'm hoping things won't get too out of shape since the string is built into the wall on one side and forms a partition wall (of the cupboard under the stairs) on the other.
I like the idea of doing them one at a time - that's a good shout.
I am not super keen on pulling the whole string out since that would mean a lot of making good getting the plasterwork back into shape. I'm assuming this is the original staircase for the house, so it's about 85 years old.

I think the first step might be getting the ceiling off under the stairs so I can see how bad they are from underneath.
Is it easier to start at the top and work down, or vice versa?
 
.....Is it easier to start at the top and work down, or vice versa?

I think that depends on how the riser meets the tread. If the riser hangs below the tread and is nailed to it (the normal way), then obviously the tread has to be in place before the riser above. This will mean you have to work from the bottom, and it also means that you would have to remove the bottom riser-tread-riser before replacing the bottom riser and tread. Thereafter, you'd just need to remove a tread and a riser at a time .
 
I've done a few rebuilds, often reusing the existing materials (excepting the wedges).
Invariably things are loose and very dry so dismantling is easy, apart from rogue fixings and stuck wedges. A multi tool with saw blade is your saviour here.
For me it's all treads and risers out, clean, and sand. I then do any remedial work on the strings.
On reassembly I work my way up and ensure the strings are pulled together tightly with heavy, screw threaded hooks/eyes and ratchet straps.
For added strength I use threaded bar with a couple of screw on threaded "T`s" on each end to keep a tension betwixt the strings.
It's a harrowing experience for the client to see just the strings left but the first time they walk up em is a very rewarding feeling for them and me.
Sometimes it's not so easy.....
Cheers Andy
 
Last edited:
Some useful stuff there, thanks.
Bottom tread is a bullnose so it will be coming off in its entirety. I'll get the ceiling down when I have a chance and see what it's like under there.
 

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