Replacing glass in corner unit?

[Doug71]

I was asked if I could replace the broken glass in this, I don't want to do it as it's all so delicate, I'm sure I would end up breaking more

Thing is it's a lovely old couple so I would at least like to give them some advice on the best way forwards with it. Anyone know how this is normally done, it looks like the glass is held in by a very fine line of putty on the inside?

I don't think it's a fine antique so not worth spending much on but would be nice to get it fixed.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

My thoughts turned first to finding a local glazier. Most glazing businesses are almost certainly focused on window installations and repair, I admit, but it seems likely that a call to one or two might elicit the necessary expertise in-house, or the business you approach might know someone with the skills to do the job. I say that because in my furniture line of work, I have a pretty shrewd idea of the specialist capabilities of other local furniture businesses. For example, I don't own a CNC machine, but I know who to send enquirers to in the same town as me if anyone asks about that capability. Slainte.

 

[Bingy man]

I’m definitely no expert on this subject but is seams like a job for a leaded window restorer rather than a window manufacturer. You are correct in your thoughts that you will most likely do more damage to this cabinet in your attempt to repair the current damage. Ironically I’ve just watched “ shed and buried “ where 2 leaded window panes were cut into 3 pieces to eventually make a table lamp . Like most things in life it will come down to cost . Good luck

 

[niall Y]

No doubt this is thin glass, no longer accaptable for glazing, proper.. It is still used for stained-glass, and picture framers use thin glass as well, which is where I got my last stuff from.
If you mask up the cabinet well, you can use paint stripper to soften and remove the putty.- no heat needed. You can then make a cardboard template to fit. If you are not confident at cutting the shape in glass you could get them to do it at a stained glass place.
Best of luck

 

[Yojevol]

I would think any furniture restorer worth his salt could repair this. If it were put to me I'd have a go. I think, with care, it can be achieved with little risk of further damage. I would:-
1. Remove the door
2. Make a cradle to the support the door
3. Tape the broken glass
4. Carefully remove the putty using a Dremel
5. Lift out the glass. If it breaks make a pattern
6. Get a new pane cut. A framer probably the best bet for 2mm glass
(check before starting)
7. Reinstate
8. Humbly accept appreciation of the owner.

Brian

 

[Richard_C]

All sound advice, I think I would give it a go, maybe even start with a stanley knife on the putty. I assume each piece of glass is flat even though the door is curved, if not then you are in trouble. Once the piece is out I might tape it to some cardboard and take it to a glass supplier/cutter and let them do the measuring. They speak a language of tight sizes, allowances and actual sizes so 'phoning it in' can be error prone.

 

[MikeJhn]

You could replace the glass with 2mm polycarbonate available from picture framers easier to cut and safer.

 

[Lard]

I'd second the polycarbonate idea.

 

[Doug71]

Thanks chaps, I'm almost tempted to give it a go

There are a couple of local glass suppliers I deal with so will ask them first if they know of anyone who does this kind of thing before I take my hacking knife to the putty

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I have replaced hundreds of panes in bookcases and corner cabinets over the years, this is how I do it.
Take the door off, lay it on the workbench and support the glazing bars on the underside.
To remove the old putty I first try to chisel it out with a sharp chisel, sometimes it will practically fall out but usually not. The next step is to heat it up with a fishtail attachment on a heat gun. Keep the gun moving over a six inch section then chisel it out. It will mostly peel off easily at this stage unless the glazier has added plaster of Paris to the original putty!
Carry on round until all of the putty is out. Lift out the remaining glass then heat up the the bead of putty that was under the glass and chisel out. Be carful not to use too much pressure as the beading will be very delicate at this stage. When the recess is nice and clean you are ready to re-glaze.
Get a small tub of brown putty, take all of the putty out of the tub, massage it well then replace back in the tub until you are ready to use it. I usually buy white putty and add dry earth pigment to match the colour of the old putty but I don’t think that is necessary for your cabinet.
You can get 2mm glass from your local glazier, they won’t be keen on selling to you but just tell them it is for an antique and they should be fine. You could also use greenhouse glass but this can be a bit heavy for a cabinet this size. Place the glass over the aperture and trace round the shape with a sharpie. Cut the glass to size.
Take a small handful of putty and push it into the bead, place the glass on top and with even pressure push the glass down making sure the putty oozes out evenly. Scape off the excess putty. A few very fine pins can be knocked in to hold the glass in place but is not always necessary. Push putty around the bead and finish off with a good clean putty knife.
The putty can take up to three weeks to set which is why some restorers add plaster of Paris or even hide glue to speed up the process, I tend to work in some terebine driers when mixing with earth pigments.
Hope this helps.