Looks to me like your switch is fitted into a plate on the front of the box. Just get a new switch, if it's a slightly different size then just modify the hole in the plate, or make a new one. Then you can wire it up exactly as before and hopefully it will run as it did before. Fingers crossed it hasn't been damaged.
Replacement switch/ Motor Issue!?
- Thread starter Chris152
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Apologised just realised I was looking at the wrong picture. Advice still holds good. Just get a plate to hold your new switch and screw it to the front of the housing, like your other box. In fact you could possibly do that using the switch from the other box. And just an aside but you really should shrink wrap over your blades, or use ones with full insulation. Always makes me nervous to see all those bare metal blade connectors in such close proximity to one another.
Have you got to the bottom of this?
There's just a chance it's caused by running off-load, so the controller is hunting? i.e. does it do it when turning?
There's just a chance it's caused by running off-load, so the controller is hunting? i.e. does it do it when turning?
ETA switch. Unfortunately seems to be discontinued, but may be available at some distributors. (US unfortunately). The part number is: 3120-F32F-H7T1-SGRX-8A. It is a thermal switch, so a 10A is not suitable. It must be 8A to ensure safe cutout.
EDIT:- just noticed no stock at allied, RS or Mouser
Be aware that items you purchase from the far east via large online sellers will probably be cheap imitations of the originalpart and probably not certified.
I regard a switch like this as a safety critical item so would only use a fully certified part. That's what the CSA/VDE/UR(reversed is a UL recognised part). also CE marked is 'OK'
If the part has not been certified, there is a real risk the part may perform in a dangerous manner. It has not been proven safe.
EDIT:- just noticed no stock at allied, RS or Mouser
Be aware that items you purchase from the far east via large online sellers will probably be cheap imitations of the originalpart and probably not certified.
I regard a switch like this as a safety critical item so would only use a fully certified part. That's what the CSA/VDE/UR(reversed is a UL recognised part). also CE marked is 'OK'
If the part has not been certified, there is a real risk the part may perform in a dangerous manner. It has not been proven safe.
Contact ETA and ask for the replacement part which is the closest match to the 3120-F32F-H7T1-SGRX-8A. It will possibly be a 3120-N3 2 D P7 T1 S GRD 8A, You must confirm that with ETA. I just had a quick check. Didn't compare cut-out curves and guessing some others
It's running fine now, John. I don't know that it'll stay that way but I've been using it for several pieces and all good since I took out the brushes, cleaned up a bit in there and replaced them. It wasn't the switch, we bypassed it and the problem persisted til I took out the brushes.
Thanks, C.
