Replacement Stanley #4 yoke?

[sploo]

I've got an old (~1940s) Stanley #4 plane, but as far as I can work out, the yoke doesn't protrude far enough through the frog in order to fully engage with the cap iron (so as you try to lower the blade the yoke "submarines" under the cap iron).

Does anyone know of a sensibly priced source for replacement yokes? I've found some in the US, but you're looking at £5 for the yoke (ok) and ~£10 for delivery. I got the plane (as a block of rust) for £20, so £15 for a yoke doesn't really make sense.

I've heard it's also possible to solder or braze a bit of metal onto the end and shape it with a file - I'd be up for that (I only need to build up about 1.5mm of depth), but I've no idea what materials would be suitable for the job. I understand the yokes of that vintage are cast (iron?).

 

[PAC1]

Matthew has some that you file down to size.
Clifton have them for about £5 but they are a bit of bent metal not castings.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Clifton offer two yokes, the bent metal one mentioned above, and a cast brass one with an extended nose. The latter may need a bit of filing to fit Stanley or Record planes. Both can be ordered from Flinn's.

http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... ml#SID=454

 

[clauskeller]

Much cheaper here: http://www.fine-tools.com/juumaplaneparts.html

 

[ED65]

Do you have any steel-filled epoxies? That should do to build up the lug as long as you provide enough texture for it to hold on to. A few shallow holes drilled in the end should be enough, plus brighten up the surface with fine abrasive or a fibreglass eraser.

I'm not sure if it's worth taking the shot if you have to go and buy the right type of epoxy but I figure you have nothing to lose if you already have the stuff given the alternatives.

Some people would consider this a bit out there but you can go even further down the DIY track here, if you have a plane whose sole needs lapping. You can collect the dust and mix that with standard epoxy and try that instead.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I have a spare one from a Record #6, don't know if it would fit, or solve your problem ... what do you think - any use ? It was long enough to cope with a Clifton iron.

 

[Racers]

Is the yoke at 90 deg to the face of the frog when it slips or is it pointing down wards?

I have had a similar problem that was caused by the slot in the cap iron being to low down, swapping it for a correct one solved the problem.

Usually its caused by a thick blade, is your blade thick?


One test would be to slide the cap iron up the blade a 3mm or so and try adjusting it.

Pete

 

[sploo]

Much cheaper here: http://www.fine-tools.com/juumaplaneparts.html

Thanks - that is a good price. I'm not sure if they'll fit a Stanley but it's worth a go.

I hadn't spotted that Dieter did those; which is a problem, as I've been trying to stop myself ordering a set of diamond plates from him, and this may be the excuse I need :wink:

Do you have any steel-filled epoxies? ... if you have a plane whose sole needs lapping. You can collect the dust and mix that with standard epoxy and try that instead.

I haven't, and despite having lapped a few planes I don't have one that needs doing right now - but, the current yoke isn't really usable, so there's probably little risk in having a go I guess.

I have a spare one from a Record #6, don't know if it would fit, or solve your problem ... what do you think - any use ? It was long enough to cope with a Clifton iron.

Good question. From what I've seen of spares, it appears it is the same part on most of the models. I'm not sure if a Record would be interchangeable with a Stanley though; perhaps other posters may know?

Is the yoke at 90 deg to the face of the frog when it slips or is it pointing down wards?

I have had a similar problem that was caused by the slot in the cap iron being to low down, swapping it for a correct one solved the problem.

Usually its caused by a thick blade, is your blade thick?

One test would be to slide the cap iron up the blade a 3mm or so and try adjusting it.

It's fairly close to 90 degrees. The blade is a normal thickness.

I have a (I think) 1990s Stanley #4, and swapping the blade and cap iron between the two is as expected (i.e. the old blade and cap iron works in the newer plane). From memory; the yoke on the old one is about 1.5mm shorter than the newer #4. The end is a bit chewed, so it may have taken some damage at some point. I.e. I think the problem is the yoke, rather than the blade or cap iron.

 

[bridger]

Is it possible that someone removed it and put it back in upside down? Givel late model stanley quality control it could have come from the factory like that....

 

[sploo]

Is it possible that someone removed it and put it back in upside down? Givel late model stanley quality control it could have come from the factory like that....

I would've thought it'd have been miles off if that were the case - but I will check.

I was able to order the Juuma brass part from fine-tools; fortunately they were able to do a cheap postage option, considering the tiny size. They confirmed it'll fit a Stanley.

 

[Vann]

I have a spare one from a Record #6, don't know if it would fit, or solve your problem ... what do you think - any use ? It was long enough to cope with a Clifton iron.

Good question. From what I've seen of spares, it appears it is the same part on most of the models. I'm not sure if a Record would be interchangeable with a Stanley though; perhaps other posters may know?

Generally, a Record yoke will fit a Stanley plane. In 1930 Record copied Stanley planes in almost every detail, right down to the (by then) non-standard threads. The geometry will be identical.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

So my Record one might well have fitted. If the one you've orderred doesn't work out, you can give me a shout. Worth a try.

 

[sploo]

Generally, a Record yoke will fit a Stanley plane. In 1930 Record copied Stanley planes in almost every detail, right down to the (by then) non-standard threads. The geometry will be identical.

Good to know, and...

So my Record one might well have fitted. If the one you've orderred doesn't work out, you can give me a shout. Worth a try.

...many thanks (and most appreciated!).

 

[GLFaria]

Is it possible that someone removed it and put it back in upside down? Givel late model stanley quality control it could have come from the factory like that....

I would've thought it'd have been miles off if that were the case - but I will check.

I was able to order the Juuma brass part from fine-tools; fortunately they were able to do a cheap postage option, considering the tiny size. They confirmed it'll fit a Stanley.

Don't expect the working surfaces to be nicely finished, though. At least on both the two I bought I had to remove a lot of casting marks. Also never, ever, try tightening the arms of the yoke in an attempt to get a slightly tighter fit on the nut. Be kind and don't ask me how I found out...

Cheers
G.

 

[essexalan]

The replacement steel yoke from Matthew needed the hole enlarging to fit my Record 5 1/2, obviously you will need the original pin. It fitted straight into another Record and a Stanley. The pin supplied is a little shorter than the original but seems to work well enough and stays put.

 

[sploo]

Don't expect the working surfaces to be nicely finished, though

That's what I say about the wood on which I use a plane :wink:

Also never, ever, try tightening the arms of the yoke in an attempt to get a slightly tighter fit on the nut. Be kind and don't ask me how I found out...

Yea... cast stuff doesn't tend to bend well!

 

[sploo]

I got the replacement yoke. Knocking the pin out of the old frog was a bar steward; I assume it hasn't moved since the plane was built (circa 1943, if the blade is original):

The new and old yokes:

The space between the forks is the same, but the new one is a little thinner. It's clearly got a longer "nose"; which is what I need.

I gave it a gentle file and polish, and it works well. Doesn't look out of place either:

 

[Vann]

Knocking the pin out of the old frog was a bar steward; I assume it hasn't moved since the plane was built...

The pins go in (and out) better from one side than the other. I can't recall which side for sure, but I think you may have knocked it out the wrong way #-o (just for future reference).

Cheers, Vann.

 

[sploo]

Knocking the pin out of the old frog was a bar steward; I assume it hasn't moved since the plane was built...

The pins go in (and out) better from one side than the other. I can't recall which side for sure, but I think you may have knocked it out the wrong way #-o (just for future reference).

Cheers, Vann.

I did try both sides: the pin is a good mm or so longer than it needs to be, and was sticking out on the left side - such that it was easier to line up a pin (read: 3mm bolt) from the other side. Otherwise I was trying to balance the end of a 3mm bolt on top of a ~3mm stub.

Seems to me that a suitably shaped press with a built in pin would be good - it's a pain to clamp/balance the frog, and I was worried I might break it with my liberal use of an American screwdriver. In the end I'd got it moving a bit, and put some oil on the ends and let it sit for a while to try to loosen it up.

Oh, I forgot to mention - I had to slightly drill out the hole in the new yoke. I think the pin is about 1/8" and the hole in the yoke was only 3mm.