Repairs to butcher's block

[jon_c]

Bought a butcher's block and it arrived with a big gap on one edge with a sliver jammed in the top. Looks a bit rubbish.

I've got some beginner wood working experience making solid shutters and all the hand tools I'd need. What's my best fix? Cut another sliver and tap it in from the side? Try and tap something up from underneath? I presume it would be very stupid to unscrew anything. Or just leave it as is?

 

[Adam W.]

I'd send it back and get them to fix it.

 

[jon_c]

I'd send it back and get them to fix it.

That's what I initially thought but he's arguing it's a result of the forces involved in clamping and securing it.

 

[fenhayman]

If it's used as a butchers block it will be difficult to clean and keep the bacteria out.

 

[grumpycorn]

I'm not sure why the forces involved in clamping would mean a 1/8th gap in it... but regardless I'd argue that unless he specifically pointed out it would have a stonking big gap down one edge, you'd be well in your rights to return it. I don't think anyone would assume that would be there.

 

[Adam W.]

That's what I initially thought but he's arguing it's a result of the forces involved in clamping and securing it.

No, it's just poorly made and the endgrain part (not sure what it's called) is larger than it should be and should probably sit in a rebate cut into the frame anyway.

How did you pay ?

 

[MARK.B.]

Send it back, you can clearly see a bit has been stuck in to fill the gap and done badly ,end rail cut to short probably,anyway its shoddy work and needs returning for your cash back.

 

[jon_c]

Ok, thanks everyone. I'll go back to him and maybe copy some of your comments...

 

[Chrispy]

That's a block made by a butcher not a butcher's block.

 

[Daniel2]

That is inexcusably shoddy workmanship.
He should expect to have it returned.

 

[Farm Labourer]

The galvanised steel bands binding the sides together don't shout quality to me.

 

[Inspector]

That looks new and they cut the sides too short to begin with. The end grain top is always going to move and fight the sides that won't so something is going to have to give. I think it is unconscionable to use hex bolts, one of which is in the end of the board doing nothing, and bucksheeing some inside corner brackets on the outsides and construction lumber legs. The maker is a hack and you'll never get a decent product no matter how they try to fix it. Return it at his cost and get your money back. It's garbage.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Send it back. He obviously hasn't much idea about woodwork to start with. Trying to put a frame around it would seem to be first mistake - the frame and the block are bound to move differently.
If you are into butchery want it as a functional butcher's block they don't have to be end grain anyway - it's more of a popular fashion.

PS on the other hand maybe I spoke too soon! Quick google shows butchers blocks with corner brackets! Some of them with straps all round like a square barrel. French Butcher's Block, 1950s
Tell yer man there should be a bracket on each corner - it's 3 brackets short of a proper job!
And box joints of some sort. DTs would be good but not same side/side, back/front, but following each other round so the box can expand in both directions - each board the same with pins at one end and pinholes at the other.

 

[Cabinetman]

I’ve seen quite a few very old original worn away completely, butcher blocks as used by proper butchers, and they always have a frame around just like this and the grain always is end grain just like that, but normally they don’t have chunking great gaps, or bolts exposed- the bolts are normally set in counterbore holes and filled over.
This isn’t a good example, it’s just possible that it has been stored in damp conditions and the top has expanded, then they have botched it with that sliver, it may be that in your nice warm kitchen it will shrink back again. If it was cheap in comparison to others you looked at, that’s what you get unfortunately.
It’s up to you - will it shrink back? Do you want to pay a LOT more for the real thing? Sorry to be a bit negative.

 

[Garno]

Even I think it is bad, I didn't think there was anyone worse than me at woodwork but it seems there is.

Get it sent back it's awful

 

[Cabinetman]

The best ones aren’t actually fastened at the corners to allow for movement, this one is pretty standard as used in the butchery trade if a bit small, sorry I couldn’t get a price on it but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was £1000

 

[TheTiddles]

Distance selling laws come in here.

It’s a rubbish build, look where those screws are on the end of the board not to mention the stonking gap, who did you buy it from?

 

[Adam W.]

The best ones aren’t actually fastened at the corners to allow for movement, this one is pretty standard as used in the butchery trade if a bit small, sorry I couldn’t get a price on it but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was £1000
View attachment 124829

If that's a grand I'll ditch fancy carving and gilding and start making butchers blocks.

 

[Jacob]

The best ones aren’t actually fastened at the corners to allow for movement, this one is pretty standard as used in the butchery trade if a bit small, sorry I couldn’t get a price on it but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was £1000
View attachment 124829

And bolted through?
I've learnt more about butcher's blocks in the last 20 minutes than in the whole of my life!
Come to think I'd never really given them a thought.
Web site is interesting too Butchers Block | Wooden Chopping Blocks | Hardwood Butchers Block the smaller ones aren't framed.

 

[Cabinetman]

And bolted through?
I've learnt more about butcher's blocks in the last 20 minutes than in the whole of my life!
Come to think I'd never really given them a thought before.

That’s something I hadn’t thought about Jacob, I had just assumed they were coach screwed but putting a bolt right through would probably be favourites – interesting. Ian