sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
The website I linked above indicates tungsten blades from the 1930s.ED65":aj6l4mxe said:
Repairing a cracked plane tote?
- Thread starter sploo
- Start date
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ED65":6rnqgw7b said:
Thank you.
Yes the paint was pretty much all gone due to rust and was certainly all gone after it had been in some solvent for a day.
I'll be honest, my brother in law owns a body shop so I get to use and play with his materials and kit.
It was sand blasted, then primed with an etch primer. One or two coats of high build primer. Then it was on with BS110 Roundel Blue, this was a 2K based paint. I've got a feeling I brushed the blue on, I can't remember why, but I'm sure I didn't spray it on.
The blade as far as I know is the original. I've since changed it for a new Stanley blade I found in my local tool shop. The original is safely stored away, I'll let the Stanley one do all the work and wear away :wink:
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
Oh for a proper spraying facility. I used to have a Heath Robinson set up for spraying loudspeakers, and found some really good 2K paints, but they're not for the faint hearted (read: unprotected). Properly nasty stuff for your health.n0legs":f5po9s8x said:
Based on mine, and various other pics I've seen; yes it looks like you've got an original contemporary blade (from your earlier photo).
sploo":29bx7map said:
Yes it's a bit of a treat being able to use a proper booth. He's got an "in house" mixing scheme so the colours are endless and using the paint factors has opened up loads of choices.
Full face air fed mask is the only way with 2K and even being the brother in law doesn't get me in there unless I'm suited up properly. Mind you mixing the stuff is enough, breathing it as a mist would be a joke.
Thanks for the confirmation about the blade.
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
The skill of a good paintshop guy (in being able to mix and match a paint to an existing car) is something I find amazing.n0legs":1qoedlij said:
+1 on the full suit and air fed; 2K is nasty. Great stuff for long term durability once cured, but not to be messed with in use. It's one of the reasons I don't repaint old planes, as I'd always feel a can or even 1K paint probably wouldn't stand up to the abuse, so I just tend to clean up, derust, and wax.
bugbear
Established Member
ED65":58m4pa1p said:I never factor that in, otherwise my collection of old tools would be a lot smaller!sploo":58m4pa1p said:(cost of elbow grease not factored in :wink.
It's all a matter of viewpoint. Some people enjoy golf - £38 for 18 holes.
Some people enjoy going to gym - annual membership - £500 (and up) a year.
Some people enjoy restoring tools to perfection - £0.
No-one would show you a beautiful pencil drawing they've put love and effort into and talk about the cost of their time!
BugBear
Damn, I was hoping it would be some simple off-the-shelf stuff.n0legs":3kbvmgnf said:
To make it easier to match the look of the factory paint maybe? I know guys in the US who use spraycans sometimes do three very heavy coats to match the thickness of the factory japanning.n0legs":3kbvmgnf said:
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
It's a standard colour, so there will be numerous products. E.g. a quick search revealed this enamel: http://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/BS381C-1 ... -Blue.htmlED65":2s091r6w said:
How tough it is vs 2K automotive paint I don't know, but the datasheet hints it might be good for heavy duty applications.
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
It's more about nicks and scratches. Obviously you don't need a plane to look like a polished car, but I've found a huge difference across paints in their ability to withstand (or not) scratches and dents. 2K automotive, and epoxy paints, are usually excellent - but they're either expensive or dangerous to spray (or both).swb58":ro78c8kr said:
You'd also want compatible base/primer and good preparation (no contamination from oil or other chemicals). It'd be quite easy to put a colour coat on an old plane that will start to peel or flake (or develop rust) due to inadequate preparation. Metal etch primers aren't exactly good for your lungs either though.
bugbear
Established Member
sploo":3a46pmuj said:
Excellent - it's good to hear that some things in tool restoration are easy. Some people make it look quite fussy.
BugBear
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
*LOL* Good point - make it authentic re dodgy British manufacturing :wink:bugbear":9tgbblld said:sploo":9tgbblld said:
Excellent - it's good to hear that some things in tool restoration are easy. Some people make it look quite fussy.
BugBear
Well traditionally it was tough as old boots which is some guide. It does need to directly withstand some wear, particularly at the toe and around the front knob, but the strength also helps it stay clinging on over time with all the shock or vibration the body casting is subject to in normal use.
The main reasons I use the 2K and automotive paints are, economy, opportunity and durability.
The coverage of the 2K paints is incredible. I mixed today approx 450ml of 2K gloss and I covered approx 2sqm twice (2 coats), sprayed on.
The cost would be around £7.
The opportunity is due to the BIL owning the bodyshop. I can paint something in safety, in the optimum conditions and at a quick turn around rate. The paint is fully dry in an hour, ready for polishing in 2.
With the planes, because the paint is baked on from the first of the primer coats, the adhesion and general toughness is assured. The finish coats are resistant to most chemicals and certainly the oils and greases etc, used to keep the tool in good condition don't have any effect on it.
Another big benefit when I've used these finishes on furniture is the ability to remedy any minor damage easily. I made my daughter some bedroom furniture a couple of years back. MDF construction painted in 2K white.
Obviously over the 2 years a few marks had developed. Two of the doors were just flatted back with 1500 and a quick polish with the mop and they were good as new. One of the other doors (frame and panel construction), had a joint ever so slightly open leaving a very visible black line. Sanded back, a little stopper applied, a coat of primer and a few new finish coats. Followed up with a flat and polish to blend the new with the old and the job is done, and I've kept all of the repair/refinishing to less than a quarter of the doors length.
For the tools it's the only products I'm going to use. Obviously the preparation goes a long way, but for the finish coats my mind is made up.
The coverage of the 2K paints is incredible. I mixed today approx 450ml of 2K gloss and I covered approx 2sqm twice (2 coats), sprayed on.
The cost would be around £7.
The opportunity is due to the BIL owning the bodyshop. I can paint something in safety, in the optimum conditions and at a quick turn around rate. The paint is fully dry in an hour, ready for polishing in 2.
With the planes, because the paint is baked on from the first of the primer coats, the adhesion and general toughness is assured. The finish coats are resistant to most chemicals and certainly the oils and greases etc, used to keep the tool in good condition don't have any effect on it.
Another big benefit when I've used these finishes on furniture is the ability to remedy any minor damage easily. I made my daughter some bedroom furniture a couple of years back. MDF construction painted in 2K white.
Obviously over the 2 years a few marks had developed. Two of the doors were just flatted back with 1500 and a quick polish with the mop and they were good as new. One of the other doors (frame and panel construction), had a joint ever so slightly open leaving a very visible black line. Sanded back, a little stopper applied, a coat of primer and a few new finish coats. Followed up with a flat and polish to blend the new with the old and the job is done, and I've kept all of the repair/refinishing to less than a quarter of the doors length.
For the tools it's the only products I'm going to use. Obviously the preparation goes a long way, but for the finish coats my mind is made up.
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
The main reasons I like 2K paints are: they're great, they're great and, they're greatn0legs":1lfxq9lu said:
The main reasons I don't use 2K paints anymore are: they'll kill me, they'll kill me, and... they'll kill me :wink: (how I wish I had a spray booth and air-fed gear)
Looks good, but has it gone a bit heavy ("MADE IN ENGLAND" looks a bit obscured)?n0legs":1lfxq9lu said:
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
I think you've just described the entire British car industry. Well, the one that used to exist anyway :wink:n0legs":2vomcv8h said:
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Forget the "car".
