Removing rust

[Beardo16]

I recently aquired a large box of hand tools from a relative, and funnily enough they are all covered in rust and grime.

I have been reading OPJ's topic on removing rust on his morticer. Now would i go down the same route as he did by removing rust, or is there a different method to removing rust from multiple hand tools.

The tools range from spokeshaves, chisels, dividers, spanners, squares you get the idea.

So what form of removing rust and grime would you guys recommend?

Adam

 

[Mreagleeyes]

I'm in the same boat, the father in law has left me a large wooden travel chest full of tools.
I'm yet to open it and reveal its secrets but i was thinking along the lines of a rubberised abrasive block & Camellia Oil.

 

[TonyW]

If the rust deposit is heavy you may want to consider Citric acid - this is a method I have used in the past with some success.
http://lumberjocks.com/WayneC/blog/1439

Or Electolyisis
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Cheers
Tony

 

[brianhr]

Have a look at this.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=17388

 

[matthewwh]

Or dip them in a bucket of this stuff, 250ml makes 5 litres, 500ml makes 10 diluted with ordinary tap water. No wires, no fuss and you can pour it down the drain when you're done.

 

[Alf]

Done a little bit of rust removal over the years and tend to use different techniques for different things. Citric acid is good for intricate stuff and removing the bulk, but I do tend to like to follow up with some sort of abrasive to get the best results. Methods used on saws here and wooden planes here. Also never overlook what the simple act of a scrub in hot soapy water can achieve - wooden items excepted, natch.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Tenko]

When I fished a lot of my gear out of their 15yr storage in the garage I found they all came up a treat with the Dremel. Steele and brass wheels were fine.

 

[Harbo]

If you have an Agricultural Supply shop nearby ( we have SCATS) you can use Milk Stone Remover - it's a cheap way of buying Phosphoric Acid (which is/was in Jenolite). Costs about £12/5litres which you dilute and will last for years?

Rod

 

[Peter Evans]

Here are some notes on citric acid

http://www.tttg.org.au/php/tttg_Page.php?n=15&a=28

Remember:

* strong, hot solution, agitated even better, eg hand mixmaster or submersible pump
* short time, check often with a scourer - most items are pretty good after 30 mins
* rinse with a scourer to remove sludge
* DRY IMMEDIATELY with a hair dryer or heat gun to avoid flash rusting
* whilst still warm brush on 3in1 oil or similar, keep hot to drive oil into metal

Note - files and rasps do not need the oil treatment, and come out sharp (if teeth still there).

Note - phosphoric acid leaves a film on the tool that protects from rust for a period; you do not really want this so must be scrubbed off.

 

[OPJ]

Anything with a wide or larger surface area can be treated with the gel-form of the Rust Remover product Matthew linked to. Hand saws and plane soles, for example. Perhaps even your squares, Adam?

 

[Jeremys]

I've had good results with electrolysis on old plane bodies and vintage car bits. Its much easier for intricate pieces...

some info at: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

 

[Dibs-h]

If you have an Agricultural Supply shop nearby ( we have SCATS) you can use Milk Stone Remover - it's a cheap way of buying Phosphoric Acid (which is/was in Jenolite). Costs about £12/5litres which you dilute and will last for years?

Rod

This stuff is amazing - I had a lot of surface rust\pitting on an old car last year that I was restoring and diluted down to about 15%, sprayed on, worked a treat. You could just dunk the tools in a tub of it and before too long - the rust will have dissolved out.

 

[oakfield]

Or the cheap and cheerful way is to use vinegar.
Get a large bottle of the cheap value stuff and leave your tools in overnight. With a good scrub in the morning they should be rust free.

Might make your workshop smell a bit though!

 

[heimlaga]

I prefer electrolysis for planes and layout tools while I use abrassives for saws and often as well for chisels and axes.