Reducing tearout from router plane.

[AESamuel]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has any tips for reducing tearout while using a router plane, particularly in soft woods? I've read that the spear point blades can help but I only have straight blades.

Thanks!

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Read the grain direction. Work across the grain if you can. If working with the grain, and this is cranky, knife the side wall deeply.

I dislike the spear point blades. Don't see the point. I believe that their intended use is are for finishing.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

The spear point blades are for working the undercut in a dovetail housing, where the floor has to be clean and smooth for the joint to work.

 

[Adam W.]

And for inlay.

 

[Trafalgar]

In a shallow housing or groove you have to be careful not to undercut the edge too much (or at all) or it can crumble. It's easy to get carried away with this cutter and start jabbing the walls of the housing or groove you're cutting.

 

[kingkiki]

Hi, has any used the

Quangsheng Small Router Plane​

It’s on offer at workshop heaven currently and looking at investing, don’t think I need a big one just not sure on it actual size can’t find any yt videos or anything on it.

Thanks in advance

 

[Orraloon]

Never used a small router plane but that one having good handles would be better than some. I have an old stanley router plane and for general woodworking have never seen the need for a small router plane. If it is for small work then perhaps it will do but you may find the small ones a bit limiting. One job trimming tenons comes to mind. More than half the plane hangs out in the fresh air so having a larger surface bearing on the wood helps a lot in being in control.
Regards
John

 

[raffo]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has any tips for reducing tearout while using a router plane, particularly in soft woods? I've read that the spear point blades can help but I only have straight blades.

Thanks!

Plane down the grain or sharpen to a higher angle of attack. Think bevel up plane.

 

[kingkiki]

Never used a small router plane but that one having good handles would be better than some. I have an old stanley router plane and for general woodworking have never seen the need for a small router plane. If it is for small work then perhaps it will do but you may find the small ones a bit limiting. One job trimming tenons comes to mind. More than half the plane hangs out in the fresh air so having a larger surface bearing on the wood helps a lot in being in control.
Regards
John

Hi John,

Thanks for the information, I see where you are coming from regarding the sole size.

 

[Chubber]

I dislike the spear point blades. Don't see the point...
Derek

I saw what you did there, you little Antipodean punster!

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I saw what you did there, you little Antipodean punter!

Everyone else is just soooo s-l-o-w

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has any tips for reducing tearout while using a router plane, particularly in soft woods? I've read that the spear point blades can help but I only have straight blades.

Thanks!

You really just need to reduce entrance and exit tearout as it may show (though a stopped joint is always the better solution). Minor tearout in the floor of the joint is rarely a problem, and doesn't affect the gluing of the vast majority of joints, as endgrain is being presented to the floor, and endgrain isn't a gluing surface no matter how smooth the meeting surfaces are. If you think you need a perfect floor, use a power router and a fresh bit.