Record Power CL4 new generation lathe

[horrorboy64]

Hi all. I'm thinking of replacing my jet 1221vs with something bigger, & the new cl4 with a stand is in my price range. However, I use a wooden based shed as my workshop, & I'm concerned that any discrepancies in the floor level may twist the lathe out of line? Also, would I have any vibration issues with it bolted to a wooden floor? Thanks for any help, Paul.

 

[MikeJhn]

Take up the floor in the lathe area and cast yourself a concrete base for it, alternatively level in some paving slabs for the legs.

Mike

 

[horrorboy64]

That's worth looking into, there's a concrete pad under the shed so I could key into that possibly. Cheers.

 

[Lonsdale73]

Hi all. I'm thinking of replacing my jet 1221vs with something bigger, & the new cl4 with a stand is in my price range. However, I use a wooden based shed as my workshop, & I'm concerned that any discrepancies in the floor level may twist the lathe out of line? Also, would I have any vibration issues with it bolted to a wooden floor? Thanks for any help, Paul.

There's a chap selling a CL4 over in the for sale forum.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The new one is a different machine to the old one, though.

 

[horrorboy64]

Yes, it's the new cl4 I was interested in, but I'm now seriously considering an axminster at1628vs, if I can wangle the extra expense. Again, being quite heavy & on cast legs, I guess a concrete pad is in order. Has anybody got anything negative to say about the axi at all or is it as good as it sounds? Thanks Paul.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Have had a 1628vs for three years, and yes it's every bit as good as it sounds and the reviews.

Well worth putting a concrete pad down, mine came in at 1.3 tonnes of aggregate and cement. Doesn't move an inch, has the Jet 3520b on it now and is rock solid.

Phil

 

[mpcpba]

Being new to turning mid last year I bought a new CL4 as an early retirement present. I am very pleased with it and it is a robust and flexible machine and excellent value for the money. The inverter speed control is great and makes starting out on the turning journey so much easier than a regular pulley system
Whilst the machine is sitting on a concrete slab it is not yet bolted down. I have generally had no problem with vibration although I suspect that a standard unstiffened shed floor would swiflty become an issue when tackling out of balance pieces. When I am finally sure of the lathe location I will bolt it down. The paving slab idea might work fpr you. or else a couple of layers of ply screwed down cross the floor perhaps?
As to the Axminster 1628vs? It is certainly a significant step up from the CL4 and at twice the price it should be. I have used one and it is very good with just a few extra features that the CL 4 doesn't have. If I had been more certain that turning was going to be a long term passion for me I have to say that I would have bought the 1628vs. But at twice the price you really do need to be sure that the few extra 'nice to haves' are worth the extra £ to you personally. As it is I am very pleased with the CL4 and have no (well almost no) regrets and the £1k I saved allowed me to kit out the rest of the workshop too!

 

[MikeJhn]

Guys, I am totally out of my depth here as I don't do any turning, forgive the purely academic question, but beside the obvious capacity and induction motors for speed control rather than changing belts? what makes one lathe better than another?

Mike

 

[stewart]

Mass would be one consideration; swing too - how large a diameter you can turn; also length if you're into long spindle work.

 

[mpcpba]

Re Mike's question.
I'd say my checklist would include:
Size - too long a bed restricts it's location , too small limits it's use and means that the tailstock gets in the way of the tool when turning bowls.
Depth over the bed - as big as possible to allow you to do bowls
Rotating headstock- to allow larger bowls to be done. The alternative of turning bowl off the backside of the headstock is better but only if you have the space
Rigid bed whether bars or cast
Good size smooth tailstock with handwheel
Head and tail knock through holes - for arbour removal and drill throughs
Proper Variable speed system
Ease of access to on and off buttons - moevable on magnetic unit best
Quality of bearings and headstock motor
Indexing head
Lockable headstock or else easy system to help with chuck removal
M33 headstock thread and 2MT tapers to future proof.
Weight - Do you need to move it around or will it stay put.
Price!!

And all of the above depends on what you want to turn! Remembering that initial ideas of what you want to do can change and you can always turn a pen on a full size lathe but you can't turn an 18" dia bowl on a small pen lathe!

 

[MikeJhn]

Malcolm

Thanks for that concise and along the lines I was thinking of.

It won't have to move once into position if I get one that is, but I do understand the restrictions on length and diameter all dependant on what I am going to turn.

Thanks again
Mike

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Mike, if you're seriously interested join a club BEFORE you buy anything at all. Once you've given it a go you might find your thoughts and priorities change, also you may well get offered good tools, extras and even a lathe at decent prices - people trade down as well as up.
Oh, and buy this (or the same from elsewhere)

http://www.waterstonesmarketplace.com/b ... &hs=Submit

No post of mine regarding beginners and turning goes without that recommendation. It is the best start up book by a mile. keep an eye on W. M. and Amazon, it turns up cheaper than that regularly.

 

[mpcpba]

+1 to the Keith Rowley book. It is excellent. Do try to get a newer release though which covers the use of chucks. It has been out in several guises for many years and earlier editions rely on traditional methods to hold bowls using just screw / jam chucks or (from memory) bespoke hand made chucks. All good stuff and they do form part of what one needs to do in due course. But now that quality 4 jaw chucks and pin/ Cole chucks for bowl remounting are affordable most of us, in my experience, use them.

Re joining a club. It is good advice as turners all seem to be a friendly lot. I did not do that though as there wasn't one right on my doorstep and i did not know any turners to start off with. Instead I self taught using Rowley and You Tube to start with plus subscribing to a woodturning mag. Some Axminster's may still host free 'Turning Tuesdays' twice a month courtesy of a friendly volunteer turner if a local AWGB club is too remote. Ax also run some apparently excellent courses too.... albeit in Devon. You may also find a local turner who runs courses too which are generally quite good value.

 

[MikeJhn]

Thanks everyone, I have ordered the book and found a fairly local club.

Thanks again.
Mike

 

[horrorboy64]

Hello all. Finally made my mind up & ordered the axi, I had a closer look at the CL & found a few things I wasn't keen on, so it's definitely worth doing the homework on these things. Just need to beef up the shed floor now! Thanks to all for your comments, much appreciated.

 

[paulm]

Hello all. Finally made my mind up & ordered the axi, I had a closer look at the CL & found a few things I wasn't keen on, so it's definitely worth doing the homework on these things. Just need to beef up the shed floor now! Thanks to all for your comments, much appreciated.

What kind of things didn't appeal on the new CL ? Just curious, but might help others who are looking too ?

 

[mpcpba]

Hello all. Finally made my mind up & ordered the axi, I had a closer look at the CL & found a few things I wasn't keen on, so it's definitely worth doing the homework on these things. Just need to beef up the shed floor now! Thanks to all for your comments, much appreciated.

Seemes like you managed to get the extra budget then! I still think for the price that the new CL4 is a good choice for many beginners but there is always something better if you can find the £££...

 

[horrorboy64]

I had a look round the new cl4 & was disappointed with the way you had to align the centres by eye if the headstock is moved at all, & as I intend to swivel the headstock for hollowing out frequently I found that off-putting.
I didn't see a switch to reverse the spindle rotation, & there isn't an indexing facility. I know these aren't necessarily important to everybody, but as whatever I buy is going to be my "forever" lathe I want to get it right. Yes, it looks very sturdy & much improved, for many people it will be an excellent tool for many years. Just didn't feel right for me. I've also decided to move the workshop into the garage after discussing things with the good lady, bless her. By the way, this also means I have a nice jet 1221vs for sale! Thanks for all the comments.

 

[mpcpba]

All good points re getting your 'forever' lathe.
On my CL4 I have placed a mark on the headstock castings to assist with realigning after swivelling the head which i find is quite accurate: but a locking pin would definitely be an improvement.
I do also find the CL4 bowl turning bed attachment a bit of a pain. It gets in the way when trying to turn in line & close to the headstock. As it is not something which can easily be removed it sometimes requires me to adopt some rather awkward stances. It is, however, quite effective when used for its intended purpose.
If I had my time again I would probably have got the Axi too. Albeit the Axi cost difference to CL4 did mean that I got a bandsaw and bench sander as well for the same price....
Hope the debate assist others with their choices.
Enjoy the new toy!