andycorleone
Established Member
kenneth cooke":2151f9nk said:
Mnnn Intersting how much did you spent in all those Mods?
RECORD BANSAW BS350S PROBLEM CUTTING 100MM HARDWOOD
- Thread starter andycorleone
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Mnnn Intersting how much did you spent in all those Mods?
gidon
Established Member
FOC = Free of charge!
andycorleone
Established Member
LOL I though was "Full Operational Capability"
I don't think your saw is heavy enough to tension a 3/4 blade. Even 5/8 may be difficult as it is just as thick as the 3/4. Meat and Fish blades are popular as the blade is often thinner and so easier to tension. 1/2 inch blades are thinner than 3/4 or 5/8 and probably more suited to this saw. Blades over 1/2 are better run on wheels of 18 or 20 and above, as flexing round a smaller wheel fatigues the steel. Drqagon used to do a thin blade for ripping on small saws???
Your tension gauge may give a reading that depends on blade length (most do) Dragon seem to generously size their blades so the pointer may well have to point higher to actually give the same tension!
Your tension gauge may give a reading that depends on blade length (most do) Dragon seem to generously size their blades so the pointer may well have to point higher to actually give the same tension!
Russell
Established Member
I would be surprised if those upgrades are free of charge. Record would replace faulty or damaged parts under warrentee but not just supply the upgrade parts to every one who just happens to ask for them. Records warrentee service and parts service is good but dont abuse it just by asking for the latest upgrade cos its better than when you bought the machine. Machine development is progressive and Record are very good at that but please dont assume you are entitled to an upgrade because it exists, you have to have a faulty or damaged part covered by their warrentee to get a free replacement.
Benchwayze
Established Member
Andy,
My Startrite doesn't have wheel-bearing guides, but has static guides instead.
I assume yours has some kind of rear bearing/guide.
So:
Is the rear guide too far forwards, deflecting the teeth forwards?
Causes friction and heat and can even throw the blade off the wheels.
Is it too far back, allowing the timber to push the blade backwards, which can twist it too.
It it's the former, it could put a burr on the rear edge of the blade, (like a scraper) This will play havoc with the tyre and also cause friction and deflection.
I had this problem when I first bought the saw. It took me a week or so to figure it out. Nothing in the manual about it. I even had sparks flying! I ditched the blade of course.
Regards
John
My Startrite doesn't have wheel-bearing guides, but has static guides instead.
I assume yours has some kind of rear bearing/guide.
So:
Is the rear guide too far forwards, deflecting the teeth forwards?
Causes friction and heat and can even throw the blade off the wheels.
Is it too far back, allowing the timber to push the blade backwards, which can twist it too.
It it's the former, it could put a burr on the rear edge of the blade, (like a scraper) This will play havoc with the tyre and also cause friction and deflection.
I had this problem when I first bought the saw. It took me a week or so to figure it out. Nothing in the manual about it. I even had sparks flying! I ditched the blade of course.
Regards
John
Benchwayze
Established Member
Presumably what butchers/slaughtermen use for cutting frozen meat and fish.mr":3i5yw56r said:
Some bright person must have reasoned that if a bandsaw can cut off fingers, it could cut fishfingers too! :-#
regards
John
Benchwayze
Established Member
I dunno Mike, but I wouldn't care to take a joint from the freezer, to try out which was best.
I rather think the bandsaws they use have some sort of cleaning devices to enable daily cleaning. I must ask my local butcher about that. The bandsaws might be better than our versions!
Regards
John
I rather think the bandsaws they use have some sort of cleaning devices to enable daily cleaning. I must ask my local butcher about that. The bandsaws might be better than our versions!
Regards
John
Benchwayze
Established Member
Andy,
Just had another thought:
A bad weld can cause problems galore...
Switch off, pull the blade round by hand and check the weld.
Remedy obvious!
Cheers
John
Just had another thought:
A bad weld can cause problems galore...
Switch off, pull the blade round by hand and check the weld.
Remedy obvious!
Cheers
John
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
andycorleone":39poy12z said:
Andy, apologies if grannies and eggs and all that, but are you sure the teeth are pointing downwards towards the table surface ?
From your description above it sounds like they are the wrong way ...........
Can you post a pic ?
Cheers, Paul.
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
Andy,
This is the direction the teeth should point, downwards towards the table
Cheers, Paul
This is the direction the teeth should point, downwards towards the table
Cheers, Paul
Benchwayze
Established Member
chisel":8rd0rnvx said:Andy,
This is the direction the teeth should point, downwards towards the table
Cheers, Paul
Wicked looking blade Paul. Do you do a lot of deep resawing?
For 'real veneer', as I call it?
John
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
Hi John,
Yep, sure do !!! Resaw a lot of logs typically up to 10" to 12" diameter, mainly into turning blanks, but also into planks for various purposes such as box making, house signs etc.
The bandsaw is a Startrite 351e with 12" ish depth of cut so can handle most things, although the motor could do with being a bit more powerful for use at those limits.
Blade is a Dragon Saws 3 tpi skip 3/4" inch I think, which I use for ripping the logs lengthwise and crosscutting.
I use a smaller Rexon bandsaw with a narrower blade for cutting out the round blanks once I have ripped the slabs, saves blade changing on the Startrite, and use a variety of chainsaws also for the larger stuff to break it down into sizes I am able to handle on the Startrite.
Tend to be using whatever I have managed to "scavenge" over the years, mainly beech (lots of spalted), ash, sycamore, sweet chestnut, cherry, oak etc.
Tend to spend more time resawing than actually making anything these days :lol:
Have tried a 1" 1.3tpi ripper blade from the same supplier and that was terrific, but was really at the limits of what the saw would take in terms of guides, wheels etc and was therefore a bit of a pain to set up and use otherwise I would stick with those as they eat trhrough the logs really quickly and easily.
Hoping it rains tomorrow so I can leave off the gardening and get back into the workshop :lol:
Cheers, Paul.
Yep, sure do !!! Resaw a lot of logs typically up to 10" to 12" diameter, mainly into turning blanks, but also into planks for various purposes such as box making, house signs etc.
The bandsaw is a Startrite 351e with 12" ish depth of cut so can handle most things, although the motor could do with being a bit more powerful for use at those limits.
Blade is a Dragon Saws 3 tpi skip 3/4" inch I think, which I use for ripping the logs lengthwise and crosscutting.
I use a smaller Rexon bandsaw with a narrower blade for cutting out the round blanks once I have ripped the slabs, saves blade changing on the Startrite, and use a variety of chainsaws also for the larger stuff to break it down into sizes I am able to handle on the Startrite.
Tend to be using whatever I have managed to "scavenge" over the years, mainly beech (lots of spalted), ash, sycamore, sweet chestnut, cherry, oak etc.
Tend to spend more time resawing than actually making anything these days
:lol: Have tried a 1" 1.3tpi ripper blade from the same supplier and that was terrific, but was really at the limits of what the saw would take in terms of guides, wheels etc and was therefore a bit of a pain to set up and use otherwise I would stick with those as they eat trhrough the logs really quickly and easily.
Hoping it rains tomorrow so I can leave off the gardening and get back into the workshop :lol:
Cheers, Paul.
andycorleone
Established Member
chisel":2ziihtci said:Andy,
This is the direction the teeth should point, downwards towards the table
Cheers, Paul
thank you chisel thats position i used, I think the problem was the tension but is a bit hard to find out what is the correct position in a 3/4 blade, Ian (from Dragon) sent me a smaller blade yesterday I didn't have time to try it (I was making my deck
) but I Will try todayBenchwayze
Established Member
chisel":3axyrbc4 said:Hi John,
Hoping it rains tomorrow so I can leave off the gardening and get back into the workshop :lol:
Cheers, Paul.
Indeed Paul,
The "Woodies' Prayer"!
I use a Startrite 351 myself. The things I don't like about it are the tacky fence and means of adjustment, and the fact it has no roller guides.I might upgrade, but maybe it's a bit late at my stage to worry too much about it!
I must look into Dragon blades though, as I do need some new ones.
Thanks again..
John
misterfish
Established Member
I've got a 352 and am quite impressed with the rubbing block type guides. I used to have an EB 315 with roller bearings and never managed to get a decent consistent cut.
Scrit, who I consider a veritable encyclopaedia of woodworking machinery knowledge and experience also favours the rubbing blocks (I'm sure you'll find previous postings on the subject if you search). Also if you go for roller bearings you need to make sure the whole assembly is decent quality and not some cheap Chaiwanese general purpose add on.
Misterfish
Benchwayze
Established Member
Thanks for that MF.
Yes, the guides are fine, but they need constant attention is all. But then, that's woodwork all over really!
I am obliged.
John
Yes, the guides are fine, but they need constant attention is all. But then, that's woodwork all over really!
I am obliged.
John
kenneth cooke
Established Member
Re the comment regarding blade tensioning. I have not had any problems fitting and tensioning a 3/4" meat and fish blade on my saw albeit the 1/2" meat and fish blades from Hamilton Edge perform equally well in fact I have just ordered two new ones this evening.
Regarding warranty upgrades I see no issues at all in equipping a machine with upgraded parts in fact it was Record Power themselves that informed me that certain parts had been upgraded as the original parts failed. As this model, or certainly my saw is stamped 5 year guarantee, the sticker is located on the outer left upright. I would suggest the best cause of action would be to speak to your dealer and if he was not forthcoming, as mine wasn't, I would ring Allan at Record Power
Regarding warranty upgrades I see no issues at all in equipping a machine with upgraded parts in fact it was Record Power themselves that informed me that certain parts had been upgraded as the original parts failed. As this model, or certainly my saw is stamped 5 year guarantee, the sticker is located on the outer left upright. I would suggest the best cause of action would be to speak to your dealer and if he was not forthcoming, as mine wasn't, I would ring Allan at Record Power
kenneth cooke
Established Member
One other point whilst we are on the subject of warranty and guarantees. I believe that dealers who post on this forum should declare their interest which would obviously put a different slant on the comments they make. What do others think about this?
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