RECORD BANSAW BS350S PROBLEM CUTTING 100MM HARDWOOD

[andycorleone]

Hi, I having problems with a record bandsaw bs350s, I just installed a New Dragon Blade 3/4"x3tpi the tension is set as suggested by record, but the machine is crying and stoping with 100mm hardwood (meranti) I think when I resaw 200mm is going to explode :shock: there is something I'm doing wrong? I think all the ajustment bearing ar set correctly. When I use the fence cut a beautiful straing line

 

[oddsocks]

this may seem a stupid suggestion - but check the blade is the right way round (they can uncurl with the teeth going the wrong way) - i've done the equivalent with a masony hammer drill in anticlockwise and a biscuit cutter blade that was upside down (so teeth backwards)!

I have the BS350 and it should cut that thickness like butter with a new blade.

dave

 

[wizer]

when you say that you tensioned it to record's suggestion, but how is that measured?

 

[gidon]

Andy check your guides aren't too close. In fact back them off top and bottom completely and see if it's ok. I've had two sets of guides where the wheels don't rotate in one plane which means they can bind on the blade if you have them set close.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[andycorleone]

Thanks for the replies:

oddsocks: I quite sure the direction is OK the half arrow is poting to the top

WiZeR: in the top enclosure there is a guide with an arrow potining in the different tensions

gidon: I think the guides are ok but going to double check reset and calibrate again

1)There is any chance that the small dust in the rubber wheel is causing this?
2)Fence is not perflectly aligned, but when when I trace a line using a marking gauge and cut using the fence the blade cut straight inside the line
3) There is any procedure I have to follow after instaling a new blade?

 

[woodshavings]

Andy, one thought....
I have a BS350 and I did have a problem initially.

When I fitted my blade, I had the guides too far forward so they contacted the sides of the front cutting edge of the blade. This quickly blunted the blade. (homer)

With a new blade and the guides adjusted so they were behind the sides of the cutting edge, I had no further trouble.

With regard to the tensioning, in my opinion the built in guide is worthless.

I tension the blade until I get a high "ting" when I ping the blade. I usually do this with blade detensioned, tighten a little, tension blade, check tension, and repeat as neccessary.

HTH
John

 

[Nick Gibbs]

I tend not to use the built-in guide on the 350 either, but have otherwise found the saw great.

It sounds like the blade may be trying to twist, possibly? Is it definitely square to the table and cutting true? It doesn't sound as if you're having to force it against the fence, but you could try cutting to a line without the fence to see if that's the cause. I assume the bottom of the workpiece you are cutting is flat and smooth? As I'm sure you know, if it rocks the blade can twist.

Cheers

Nick

 

[andycorleone]

Thanks

woodshavings: the guides are about 6mm from the from of the blade. What you means with : "I tension the blade until I get a high "ting" when I ping the blade." is ting the sound it makes? is Ping a quick touch with the finger?

Nick Gibbs: I can't see any twist, yes is 90 degress, I will try without the fence

 

[iajon69]

My initial thoughts is that the tension needs to be set higher - only use the built in tension guide as a rough measurement!

With your machine and the blade that you are using then you shouldn't have any problems at all cutting this thickness material.

Is the blade stalling in the cut and the drive wheel still turning or trying to turn or is the whole thing stopping - blade and wheels?

The first thing that I would try is adjusting the tension a bit higher to see if this makes a difference.

Ian

 

[woodshavings]

Thanks

What you means with : "I tension the blade until I get a high "ting" when I ping the blade." is ting the sound it makes? is Ping a quick touch with the finger?

Yes, its the sound it makes...I guess its chicken and egg - I originally found the correct tension by experiment - kept tightening until the blade did not wander. I then "pinged" it and noted it gave a high musical note - sorry I cant be more precise.

I dont know what others may think, but its unlikely you could overtension the 3/4 blade while you are experimenting. Cut without the fence to check its cutting true. I have cut 150mm oak with my 350 - take it steady and it cuts great. I suppose you could have a duff blade even though its a new one.
Good luck

 

[OPJ]

I agree with the other comments on blade tensioning; pluck it like a guitar string until you get a nice note. As long as you're not applying so much tension that you're close to the end of the thread, you should be okay. If you're still having problems, you could try having 5mm trimmed of the length of your blades? Dragon will do this for you :wink: - it makes a difference for me with my cheap SIP saw and means I don't have to crank the tension up nearly as much.

As for the side blade guides, they should be just clear of (0.5mm) away from the sides of the blade with the gullets 2mm ahead of the bearings, so that when the blade is pushed back against the rear thrust bearing (0.5mm again?), the teeth CAN NOT come in to contact with the side guides.

Just wondering, also, whether you have enough tension on the drive belt?

 

[mr]

Would running the side guides too close to the blade gullets blunt the blade or just destroy the set? If the latter then wouldnt the blade still cut but just not track in a straight line? (a question which possibly shows how little I know about my bandsaw). My immediate thought if the saw is stalling is not that the blade is blunt or that the saw is poorly set up but rather that the user might be trying to make the cut too fast. The board should be fed into the blade at the rate that it wants to run at, forcing the board in faster than that and putting oo much pressure on the board as it feeds in might cause the saw to stall? (again demonstrating my complete inexperience with my bandsaw). After addressing that I might start to look at blade tension.

Cheers Mike

 

[andycorleone]

I just installed the Stock blade by record, so I found that the problem was the new blade from Dragon :shock: I just contact Ian lets see what hapen now :roll: thanks all for the help

 

[OPJ]

Don't worry Mike, you seem to have a good, basic understanding of how to use a bandsaw. :wink: There is a temptation to feed the timber in as it was a circular saw you were, which would obviously cut much faster than any bandsaw. I've always been told that you should initially start off with a reduced feed-rate for the 'running-in' period of a new blade.

If the teeth came in to contact with the guides, all I can say for certain is that you'll get a few sparks and will undoubtedly do some damage to the guides as well.

I'd imagine you would only really destroy the set, as the tips or points on the teeth would remain in tact... So, if there's only contact on one side of the blade, the set will be uneven and your cuts will pull to one side.

 

[wizer]

I suspect that the tensioning was not right. Ian should be able to help you out.

 

[gidon]

Only just noticed it's a 3/4" blade you're trying to tension - that's right at the limit of this machine - I tried one once but never again. I tore the thread on the tensioning bolt - never got it close the correct tension (ie even straight looking down the guides). Too scared to try it again. And to be honest resawing is easy and accurate enough even with a 1/2" 3tpi.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[andycorleone]

Yes maybe the 3/4" blade is too much for this machine, Ian Offer me to send me a 5/8” to test with the bandsaw, I really hope it will work

 

[kenneth cooke]

I read your note and personally have a lot of experience with this particular model which I purchased when it was first introduced. There have been many modifications since it was launched and I strongly recommend that you speak to Allan at Record Power whom I have always found to be very helpful. I have totally upgraded my saw with all the mods FOC as it is still under a manufacturers 5 year warranty. With regards to difficulty cutting hardwoods, I fitted my saw with meat and fish blades from Hamilton Edge and the cut is superb but first things first. I suggest you look into fitting upgrades.

Upgrades available FOC under warranty-

1 High quality fence and fence rail unit complete

2 Top roller bearing complete unit

3 Blade tensioning Mech.. with higher quality tread

Only after carrying out these mods would I then consider fitting a 3/4" meat and fish blade- you will not be dissapointed

 

[mr]

What is a meat and fish blade? DC mentions them in one of his books as well.

Cheers Mike

 

[gidon]

Welcome Kenneth.
Surprised all that came under warranty - especially the fence. Nice to know though. I have an original machine too and the tensioning bolt was made of crappy mild steel. If you get a chance to take a couple of pics of the news upgrades would really appreciate that.
Cheers
Gidon