Record Bandsaw Masterclass...

[matt]

Just watched the masterclass DVD from Record Power and noted a few observations...

1. When it comes to tensioning the bandsaw blade, Alan Holtham appears to turn the knob with little effort using more or less the tips of his fingers. On my saw (same on as in the DVD) I need a damn good monkey grip and it's really stiff. (And I have a reputation for having a firm grip and usually over tighten everything).

2. When setting the top guides, Alan view from the front of the saw. On mine, the guard comes down in front of the guides and I see no way of getting it out of the way to view the guides properly.

Any thoughts?

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Matt,

Alan is a member of this forum and I've sent him a pm asking him to look at your post.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[p111dom]

On my saw (same on as in the DVD) I need a damn good monkey grip and it's really stiff.

I'm on my second band saw and I've had to use this technical term on both.

 

[Paul.J]

Matt wrote

1. When it comes to tensioning the bandsaw blade, Alan Holtham appears to turn the knob with little effort using more or less the tips of his fingers. On my saw (same on as in the DVD) I need a damn good monkey grip and it's really stiff. (And I have a reputation for having a firm grip and usually over tighten everything).

Yes Matt i have noticed this on my BS350.Very difficult to turn that knob once the blade starts getting some tension on it :shock:
Still a very good saw though

 

[johnf]

I also have a BS350 mine is the same needs a realy strong grip to turn the tension wheel :twisted:

 

[mr]

Am I tensioning my blade incorrectly? (BSX300) I wind the tension up with the wheel which takes a good grip at its extreme end but isn't monstrously hard and then I complete the tensioning with the lever arm which brings the blade up to a guitar string pluckable tension. I haven't watched the DVD for a while so I may be taking the wrong route to it.

Cheers Mike

 

[9fingers]

I don't know this specific machine but generally speaking the mechanical advantage of the thread and the diameter of the hand wheel should give sufficient gain to make if fairly easy.
Lubrication is important and in woodworking machinery, the sawdust does wick up any lubrication quite quickly.

Have you tried some oil in the right places?

hth

Bob

 

[kenneth cooke]

I trust you are slackening the top nut of two before making your adjustment. I also have a BS350 which does not have any tensioning problems but as RP said most people overtension

 

[matt]

I trust you are slackening the top nut of two before making your adjustment. I also have a BS350 which does not have any tensioning problems but as RP said most people overtension

Top nut? I only have the handle on the top - no other nuts :?

 

[kenneth cooke]

I trust you are slackening the top nut of two before making your adjustment. I also have a BS350 which does not have any tensioning problems but as RP said most people overtension

Top nut? I only have the handle on the top - no other nuts :?

I think you will find that there are two nuts located on the threaded steel rod. They need to be slackened first or you will wring it's neck, so to speak

 

[matt]

Absolutely no mention in the manual... Nor in the masterclass DVD...

:?

 

[Paul.J]

No top nuts on mine either,just the tensioning wheel.Perhaps it's because of differing models.
Also checked the instruction manul in case i'd missed something but no :?

 

[Alan Holtham]

Hi everyone,

Whilst the tension on the blade is initially quite slack it should be possible to use just one hand to turn the top adjuster handle. Obviously as the tension starts to increase the resistance on the handle also increases, but it should not become so tight that you need real force to turn it. In my experience of demonstrating machines most users try to overtighten the blade often trying to make a wayward blade cut straight. Provided it is in good condition the blade does not need tremendous tension to cut straight and no amount of tension will make a blunt blade cut straight.

If you have a blade with a cam type release it is easier to keep adjusting the tension with the lock released and then apply the cam lock.

I am not sure what the post about the locking nuts is about. To my knowledge none of the Record machines has anything other than a single top knob for adjusting tension. Maybe it is being confused with the tracking control on the back of the machine which does have a locknut.

remeber that tension is not critical, the blade needs to be tight enough not to slip on the wheels but does not need to be wound up really high, good cutting performance is down to the quality of the blade and also remeber that blades loose their edge quite quickly and need to be replaced regularly. Overtensioned blades will crush a flat spot on the rubber tyre if left for too long and will also fatigue much more quickly.

If anyone needs any more help with this give me a shout. I am doing my machinery masterclasses at Yandles show this week and would be happy to take you through the set up process if anyone is attending.

Cheers,

Alan

 

[9fingers]

Hi Alan,

Do you have a schedule of the master classes at yandles for 5/6th Sept?

I'm planning to be there and would kick myself if I got there to find I'd just missed one on a topic I wanted to know about.

TIA

Bob

 

[Alan Holtham]

Hi Bob,

Sorry I have no idea yet about the schedule, I'll find out when I get there!. Normally I do a couple of turning demos first, then the bandsaw set up just after lunch and then a planer thicknesser set up, but it depends on what other demos are going on, both on the Record stand and elsewhere in the show. The bandsaw one is usually the most popular one, I think reflecting the difficulties new users seem to have in setting up the machine, when in actual fact nothing is that critical apart from using a good blade. I usually show a veneer cut in hardwood using the machine with all the guides well out of the way and minimal tension to demonstrate just how 'uncritical' it all is. The planer thicknesser demo on the other hand is the complete opposite with thou accuracy being necessary to make it all work properly.

Anyway sales pitch over , hope to see you there.

Cheers.

Alan

 

[9fingers]

All Sounds useful Alan, I guess I'd better get there as early as I can.

I must confess the only record kit I have are some turning chisels and I have a lathe, bandsaw, joiner and thicknesser from other stables.

I hope that does not count me out!!

I'll be there on saturday hopefully.

Bob

 

[Paul.J]

Thanks for the explaination Alan,but i don't think i am over tensioning my blades,in fact i think they could do with more tension on,but the wheel gets so hard to turn i feel something might give :shock:
Is there any other way that the slack of a new blade can be taken up :?:
I was using Axminsters Axcalibur's but am now using Dragon blades.

 

[Alan Holtham]

Paul, I just wonder whether your blades are slightly over length and you are at the far end of the tension adjustment. Have you always had this problem with other blades? Dragon blades are usually superb and the correct length but i suppose one could get through.

the first job I always do when I turn up for a demo is to clean and lubricate all the screw threads, particularly the tension one as this makes a real difference as well. Silicon spray is an ideal dry lubricant.

Other than this and the problem occurs on different blades, there could be something wrong with the thread on the tensioner. Contact Lee at Record Power as he is most helpful and might be able to shed some more light on it.

Bob, dosn't matter what your 'colours' the principles are exactly the same on all makes. Hope to see you there.

Cheers,

Alan

 

[Paul.J]

Alan Holtham wrote

Paul, I just wonder whether your blades are slightly over length and you are at the far end of the tension adjustment

Thanks Alan.
I did wonder this myself so i put the original Record blade back on,yes i did keep it as it was ok for a while :shock: and i do have the same problem with it.
How much do you have to play with on the blade length :?:

 

[Alan Holtham]

Paul, I would guess there is about 20mm tolerance on blade length so it is not really that critical. the fact that you have the same problem with the original blade makes me wonder if it is actually some fault on the screw mechanism. Are the blades remotely tight when it starts to go stiff? Was it always stiff from new?Try taking the blade off and winding the knob up and down with no tension to see if it moves freely enough and apply some lubricant. If it does that tends to rule out a thread problem. Then fit a blade and try and see where the tensioner carrier is along the thread of the adjuster when it starts to go tight. If it is at the top it would suggest that the blades are too long. if its in the middle how tight is the blade at this point? I know it is difficult to describe, but is it tight enough not to slip on the wheels or is it all still flopping about. As i said earlier most users really do overtighten the blades until they are like a drumskin, tight enough so that the blade is taught and won't slip is all you need.

Sorry, I am not really being very helpful here but it is difficult for me to assess unless the machine is in front of me. The key of course is does it cut accurately or is it not even tight enough to start the machine up? If you can get to one of the shows that Record do you could check on another machine and there guys are all pretty clued up, ( in fact they think they are better than me, which couldn't possibly be true!!! :wink: :wink: )