Record 050C - Bits

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Tasky

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Evening,

For Christmas, some kind soul gave me an old Record 050-C plane. Bit tatty and 'patinary', but no actual rust or anything and the plastic wallet has all 12 cutters for beading, grooving, etc. Looks like it should clean up nicely.

I'm still digging up information on how it's all used and I'm a touch foggy on how this Beading Stop is supposed to work... It has a groove that locks onto a tongue along the underside of the skate (?), so I'm wondering why it has depth adjustment?
Is it actually needed in normal ploghing use, like a regular plane sole?

Also I've been reading on how these nylon depth/beading stop expanders are supposed to work - Mine are missing, though... Can I just use some rubber hose do you think, or are there appropriate replacements available?

Cheers...
 
The beading stop is more a fence than a stop really. I can confidently predict that you will never need it, but if you do, Alf has a scan of the original instructions on her ever useful site here http://cornishworkshop.co.uk/combinationplanes.html See page 10 of the pdf.

As for the missing nylon, you might hit lucky with exactly the right gauge but the size is critical - you might be better off drilling and tapping for a conventional arrangement.
 
I'd seen that earlier, but my eyes must be going, as it took a good few reads and close-up looks at that scan before I could even spot the beading stop...
So it looks like it's mainly just used as a stop when beading a tongued board, or as you say an occasional fence?
Think I need to play around with it a bit to get the hang...

So what will I be drilling and tapping? Do you mean modding the plane itself, or just making up some replacement expanders?
 
I've been and looked at mine. (I have a complete 044C that I bought new, plus some parts from an 050C.)

If you have the depth stop, G and the adjuster K but not the nylon expander L, this is what I would do.
Turn or file a ring around the adjuster, near the bottom of the knurling, about 1mm wide. Drill a small horizontal hole at right angles to parts K and G, through the bulge in the casting to intersect the vertical hole. Drill and tap at say M4. File the tip of a short M4 screw to 1mm so it will retain part K but allow it to turn. It will then work to raise and lower the stop, part G.
You will probably need a second hole near the bottom of the hole, to allow a second screw to bear onto the stem of part G and lock it up. I'd make this M5 and use a thumbscrew.

The nylon expander is ok at locking in place but it's difficult to adjust it by small amounts - it tends to stick then slip. I reckon a conventional stop would be better and you may as well use the threaded stem to make it easily adjustable, if you have it.

If you don't have the depth stop at all, then fabricate one from a bit of flat steel and a 5/16" or 8mm rod riveted in.(I've checked both sizes with drill bits and either would work. 8mm is slightly more snug.)

If you want to try and replace the expander I reckon mine measures as follows:

Length 9.5mm
Outside diameter 8mm
Inside diameter about 5.4mm

The upper end appears conical inside but I expect this is just from contact with the tapered bottom of the metal locking screw.
 
After a little more digging in the workshop, I find that I have some clear plastic tubing of suitable size. It's a bit softer than the original but it does expand properly and will grip ok. It probably came from a home brew shop.
If you ( or anyone else) wants some, send me a pm with your address and I'll pop an inch or two in the post. I have enough for several hundred depth stops!
 

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