Recommendations for a mortice gauge?

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The gauge (Cutting gauge) is supplied with a tapering cone for a wedge. (It probably has a flat on one side, I can't remember).

The hole which goes through a layer of brass is a normal parallel hole.

Therefore the nasty narrow knife is not held at all at the underside of the stem, where it matters, but only at the top.

I am not clear how the hole is to be turned into a conical shape without a suitable reamer.

Anyway, the result is a tool which is not fit for purpose.

best wishes,
David
 
David, thank you for that. Yes I see what you mean.

Can you recommend a vintage marking and cutting gauge or what I should look out for?

Thanks

Jonny
 
I'm confused too. Andy Kev has a Joseph Marples Trial 1 combined Mortice and Marking gauge, which he is happy with. It is a marking gauge not a cutting gauge so will have pins all round. I guess it's the one Jacob found a picture of.

mortice.gauge.14.l.jpg


But what is the inferior gauge that Zeddedhed has which David C says is wrongly made?

From the discussion, it's a cutting gauge, so should have a tapered square wedge in a tapered square hole, holding a flat blade.

As far as I can see from the Joseph Marples and Thomas Flinn sites, the only J Marples cutting gauge is this one, which does.

rosewood-gauge3-larger.jpg


It is rosewood with some brass, though not branded as Trial 1. As far as I can see the picture shows a correctly made square sided hole.

Is that what you are talking about, or is there another one out there somewhere, to be avoided?
 
Andy Kev.":1rqb2n7f said:
Thank you all very much indeed for your replies.

D_W and Derek: I tried a Japanese gauge when I went on a course, exactly like the one on the right in Derek's first picture, and it drove me absolutely nuts in frustration. Try as I might, I just couldn't get the thing to work properly. The one in the last two pics looks like a dream though as well as extremely practical and I'll file that away for future reference.

Meanwhile, it looks like Marples is the answer for the time being. This one seems to be the best:

http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... ml#SID=537

And it's probably what I'll be choosing unless anyone knows of any serious drawbacks with it.

Peter, the Veritas dual gauge was the other solution that occurred to me and I'm very pleased with my single wheel Veritas gauges. I quite like the idea of trying something more traditional though.

It's quite a while on and I missed this, but the setup is different, as Derek shows. I usually set mine up to the mortice chisel and if they are good quality, then you can just slide the head while holding both blades and there's no issue.

The cheap ones don't work as well because the fit between the blades isn't good.

There are several levels of them
* cheap (like 10 pounds) which will require a lot of work, and the irons aren't particularly thick
* 100 pounds new (stu has one of that type at Tools from japan, can't remember the brand but I have it) - those work like a dream, but they are not on the cheap side.
* 250 pounds (kinshiro). I can't comment on how the kinshiro works, but it is a sought after maker. If it works better than the 100 pound version, I'd be surprised, but maker name counts in japan and people will pay, I just can't bring myself to it
* a used version of a quality gauge from the last few decades - they bring almost nothing here in the states, equivalence of 10 pounds or so, and if they've been taken care of, they work smoothly and easily and have good quality metal parts

All of that said, i started with the cheapest ones, and now I have one of the second and fourth each. I have a different opinion of them now, but even so, I think there are some people who won't favor the fact that the blades can move.

Type #2 above actually has a thumb screw that sets the two blades to a fixed position so that it's easy to set, but i'm not keen on the idea of recommend someone buy something that would cost what's equivalent to $125 to us.

Also, i've seen warren mickley suggest that it's not historically inaccurate to create fixed width gauges for each chisel that you use on a regular basis (if you only use two or three mortice chisels on a regular basis, which is the case for me, that may be the most practical and inexpensive way to go).
 
I have one of the Trial 1 gauges (the full brass face plate is particularly nice) and couldn't be happier with it. I have considered filing off the reverse pin as it bites me when I am careless.

I love the older gauges with brass stems and ebony stocks, or the brass framed ebony ones, but having to use a screwdriver to tighten the stock is a deal breaker for me, the convenience of a thumbscrew is much more useful.
 
Andy, I started to say it was a cutting gauge and the way the conical pin holds the blade, but I re-read your post and you are aware of that.

Jonny
 
Andy,

I was answering a point from page 1!

The round holed cutting gauge I saw was sold with Axminster branding, but I'm sure it was made by Marples.

I complained to Ian Styles about it. Don't know what happened next.

The gauge shown above is good.

David
 
Just browsing, having a cider and a light went on. Hold on... popped out to the shed. Woo result! It's a bit battered but it looks fine. All parts in good order. Picked it up on the annual family hols to Devon (Beer to be precise) for £6.50 according to the sticker, couple of years ago.
Beginners luck? :D

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Andy, sorry If I've confused the issue here - my gauge is an Axminster one http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-su ... ting-gauge

Superior it is not.

I'll square out the stupid round hole (probably easier than making it conical) and make a square wedge and better knife, thus creating the Zeddedhed Improved Superior Cutting Gauge.

Don't hold your breath though. This is a 'tuit' project. :D
 
Ah, thanks. That's a carefully posed photo then, on the Axi site.
 

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