Recommendation for an automatic indoor retracting extension cable

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deema

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I’m in the process of wiring up the workshop, and I would like to have an automatically retracting 240v extension lead. I don’t want anything dangling from the ceiling, and I also discounted floor mounted sockets due to moving machines around that weight over 1 tonne. I want really good quality cable such as H07RN and preferable 2.5mm rather than 1.5mm CSA. This is a one time buy, so I’m looking for really good quality.

It will be wall mounted

Thanks for your help.
 
h07rn-f cable 2.5mm 3 core is a heavy cable to have retractable.
Not unheard of, but what length are you looking for?
 
1.5mm CSA in H07 is good for 17A single phase or 15A in 3 phase, unrolled because it can run relatively hot. That's safe in practice for a 16A extension and a shortish length may be a good thing to ensure you always unroll it fully.
2.5mm CSA isn't enough for a 32A extension.
(@ChaiLatte made a good point about limitations of cables and plugs on a recent thread about 110v tools.)

You may find a shorter length of 1.5mm is the most useful. Possibly two of these at reels opposite ends of your workshop.
Haul out a coil of the big stuff for the odd job that needs it.
 
The only one I’ve found is 5m …not sure if that’s long enough for you

That is a Schill with a different sticker on it. If it was in an auction, would it have a Shill bid?

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As has been stated here before, UK BS1363-1 three pin plugs are manufactured to suit maximum 1.5mm^2 cable, so to use a 2.5mm^2 would require something like a 16A blue plug on the input end.

By the same logic, BS1363-2 rewireable sockets are similarly manufactured to suit maximum 1.5mm^2 cable (section 11.4), so what is the plan for the output end of the cable reel? Cut a few strands off the 2.5mm^2 wire until it fits? Enlarge the holes in the socket so the cable fits unmolested? Fit a blue socket and change all your tools to blue plugs? Have a short flylead of 1.5mm^2 cable with blue plug and standard socket between reel and tool?
 
That is a Schill with a different sticker on it. If it was in an auction, would it have a Shill bid?

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As has been stated here before, UK BS1363-1 three pin plugs are manufactured to suit maximum 1.5mm^2 cable, so to use a 2.5mm^2 would require something like a 16A blue plug on the input end.

By the same logic, BS1363-2 rewireable sockets are similarly manufactured to suit maximum 1.5mm^2 cable (section 11.4), so what is the plan for the output end of the cable reel? Cut a few strands off the 2.5mm^2 wire until it fits? Enlarge the holes in the socket so the cable fits unmolested? Fit a blue socket and change all your tools to blue plugs? Have a short flylead of 1.5mm^2 cable with blue plug and standard socket between reel and tool?

Good point, I was considering putting a double socket on the end, which I believe the wire size should be 2,5mm?

I can see that 1.5 is ‘standard’ for most extensions.
 
I was considering putting a double socket on the end...

For 2.5mm^2 of area, you can convert that into a diameter (I think it is 1.8mm). Find a candidate double trailing socket and see if a 1.8mm diameter drill bit will fit into the holes in the pins. If not, plan B. Also consider the overall diameter of the cable's outer insulation and have a plan for the cord grip.

Double trailing sockets seem to be available in two formats: where the cable emerges 'above' the midpoint between the sockets and where it comes out of either the left or right side of two adjacent sockets. One or other might suit your layout better.

The feed end would never be a problem: either blue 16A plug or wire into a switched, fused spur flex outlet (e.g. TS 18434).
 
When I got mine I opted for a 110v reel as the cable was 2.5 & 10m long, then I just swapped the plugs round for 3pin & put a double 240v trailing socket on the end.
At the time there was more choice in 110 than 240 plus the 110 seemed more robust but that said it was a long time ago.
 
I thought you had a large number of sockets around the walls so why the need for this extension ? I can recall that they were in common use in many garages but only for a leadlight until LED's came along and that the ones for power were often overheated due to not be unwound so just faded out.

I have seen a pivoting catenary system in manufacturing where both power and compressed air were provided but that although wall mounted or stanchion mounted still dangles from the ceiling. Also if for power tools then what about extraction, this has been a counter argument for cordless if extraction is needed because you are still tethered.

There is no limit on the size of cable you can use when using drum rollers, it is just that they get very large as can be seen on some overhead cranes.

For garage type extensions

https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/sealey-cable-reel-system-retractable

If money is not a problem then take a look at this company who do a range of components including slip rings

http://www.nova.uk.com/Nova8/springOperatedReelsA.html

The challenge would be the 16A slip ring for the three conductors.
http://www.nova.uk.com/Nova8/slipRings.html
 
@Spectric thanks for your thoughts. Yes, I’m installing a number of double sockets around the walls, however, they never seem to be in the right place! We (the old farts including me that tinker together) tend to have the project in the middle of the space. So, inevitably we end up with an extension lead from the wall. I’m notorious for stepping in power cables…..whoops!….and for some reason just hate using manual extension leads, they always seem to get tangled up.

There are two possible solutions, the first is the retractable extension lead, the second which is favoured by a good friend of mine is to create a power block of outlets on a heavy duty cable that we can move to the centre of the room and plug into any of the interlocked outlets.
 
a power block of outlets
That is how we used to supply 110 volts on larger sites back before they all went cordless, a free standing distribution box that had both 16 and 32 amp sockets each protected and 63 amp daisy chain sockets in which other distribution boxs could be connected.

Have you thought about this from a different direction, rather than working in the middle where you have nothing what about a working bay, an area kept clear where something to be worked on is moved to so that you have all your tools and workbench at hand along with power and any additional light.

In some places I have worked they had two areas, a dirty area where stuff was stripped out and everything cleaned with wash tanks at hand and then it was all moved over to the rebuild area in a nice clean state ready for inspection and rebuild, downside was the need for two sets of tools where one was a dirty set and the other clean.

on a heavy duty cable that we can move to the centre of the room and plug into any of the interlocked outlets.
You still have the trip hazzard unless you use something like this

https://www.theramppeople.co.uk/cab...jBGDFWO8UHP5AQIAJ0Ctxu3qcFI_c4DjPFJ5uxZ7P_Mp7
 
Centrally mount this type
Yes they are a good product but dangle from above, at least no trip hazzard but

the old farts including me that tinker together

You now have a head injury hazzard which is not good for old farts because your skin has thined and you tend to bleed profusely especially if you are on medication.
 
What sort of tools do you plan to use with this extension lead?
If these are hand tools, wouldn’t you want to have a dust extractor or vacuum connected to the tool as well?
If you have to bring the vacuum hose to the tool, you might as well couple it with the power lead so you don’t have a hose coming from one place and a power lead from another.

Something like in the picture (swap female receptacle to another type if you are not a Festool user)
- FYI: Non Festool vacuum hoses and sleeves/wraps can be purchased in the required length.

1733312756072.jpeg
 
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