Good idea, Steve. I'm game .
I came across this technique ten years ago in a Daily Telegraph article by Thane Prince. It makes the most delicious bread with hardly any effort at all. And I've never had a batch fail on me yet!
“Food and Drink” – The Daily Telegraph 2 May 1996 by Thane Prince
One of the most encouraging trends I've noticed in food fashions recently is the revival of real bread. Even restaurateurs who once paid little regard to the humble loaf have started to take pride in their bread and worry about it making a good impression.
It is too soon to believe that there has been a complete about-turn from the days of mass-produced sliced loaves and soft baps, but bread is becoming a centre-stage attraction on fashionable menus.
Designer food halls such as those at Harvey Nicholls and Selfridges have large areas devoted to loaves fresh from the ovens of master craftsmen, and at Bluebird, possibly the most design-conscious foodshop of this century, the bread is fast becoming as famous as the record-breaking car after which the whole complex is named.
Stuart Powell is the man behind this diet-wrecking bread and today I have some of his recipes and top baking tips.
Stuart Powell's Bread
The bread is made in two stages. Make the ferment – a slightly sour dough base that adds to the texture and flavour of the loaf – the day before.
Ferment
200g / 7oz strong white bread flour
125ml / 5fl oz water
A pinch of fresh yeast
Mix to a smooth ball and put in a lightly oiled covered container in the fridge overnight. This mixture makes enough for 4 - 5 loaves. It will keep for 2 - 3 days in the fridge.
Whole Tomato Bread
This fabulous bread uses the liquid from the tomatoes to form the dough. Note that the chopped tomatoes must be marinated in the oil, sugar and salt over night.
120g / 4½oz strong white flour
120g / 4½oz plain flour
7g / ¼oz Maldon sea salt
½ tsp caster sugar
10 ml olive oil
170g / 6oz ripe plum tomatoes
15g / ½oz yeast
¼ tsp powdered gluten (optional)
85g / 3oz ferment
In a large bowl mix the flour, yeast and powdered gluten if used. (I use a free-standing mixer with a dough hook.)
Pour in the tomato mixture plus all the juice and mix until a ball starts to form. Add the ferment and continue to work the dough until the ball is formed. Turn onto a floured board and knead until the dough is smooth. Leave to rest in a covered, lightly oiled container until the mixture has doubled in size.Now shape it by turning on a floured board and kneading gently into a round loaf. Leave for five minutes, then shape again. Place on a baking sheet and dust well with sifted flour. Cut a cross through the top of the loaf using a razor-sharp blade. Bake in a well-heated oven (220C/400F/gas mark 6) for 30 - 35 minutes or until the loaf sounds hollow when tapped.
Spinach and nutmeg bread
55g / 2oz fresh leaf spinach, trimmed weight
1 medium shallot, chopped
½ – 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1 tbsp olive oil
200g / 7oz strong bread flour
120g / 4½oz plain flour (plus a little extra if needed)
1 tsp fine salt
½ tsp caster sugar
10 ml olive oil
15g / ½oz yeast
125ml / 5fl oz water
70g / 2½oz ferment
Salt and pepper
Fry the shollot until soft, add the spinach and cook for three minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Dissolve the yeast in water, adding the oil. In a separate bowl mix together the flours, salt sugar and spinach mixture. Make a well in the centre and pour the liquid mixture in. Mix to a dough then add the ferment and mix until this is incorporated. Knead until smooth, then tip into an oiled container. Cover and leave until doubled in size. Continue as above.
Italian walnut bread
140g / 5oz strong white flour
140g / 5oz plain flour
150ml / 6fl oz warm water
55g / 2oz broken walnut kernals
30g / 1oz clear honey
15ml walnut oil
1 tsp table salt
scant ½oz fresh yeast
Dissolve the yeast in water with the honey. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour the liquid mixture into the well and mix to form a ball. Turn out and knead the dough until smooth.
Place in an oiled container, cover and leave at room temperature for 20 minutes. Knock back and form a ball. Leave to rest again at warm room temperature, this time for 30 minutes. Shape the bread into an oblong and leave to prove until double in size, about 30 minutes. Dust with flour, make a few slashes along the top and bake in a pre-heated hot oven (200C/400F/gas mark 6) for 30 - 35 minutes.
Bake Better
Good bread needs good flour. Buy the best you can find – unbleached, strong white flour is available from health-food shops and supermarkets.
Store flour in a dark dry place and it will keep for six months.
Use fresh yeast if possible. Again, this is available from health-food shops and most supermarkets with in-store bakeries.
Take your time, don't rush the dough. Many things affect the activity of the yeast, most importantly temperature, so if the day is chilly, leave the dough longer. Always wait until the mixture has doubled in size before proceeding to the next step. Stuart actually keeps his dough cool to delay the yeast, thereby giving the dough longer to develop more complex flavours.
Tap water is fine but remember it must only be warm; high temperatures kill the yeast. The best temperature is 10 – 15C (50 -60F); about the temperature of a baby's bottle. Colder water will slow the process but gives tastier bread.
Heat the oven well, switching it on about 30 minutes before you begin baking.
Dust the top of the loaf with a thick covering of flour. This not only looks good but protects the top crust from scorching. Scatter the baking sheet with coarse cornmeal to have the same effect on the base of the loaf.
To ensure a crisp crust, place a baking dish at the bottom of the oven when you first switch it on. Just after you put the bread in the oven, tip a small cup of cold water into the dish and close the door quickly. This has the same effect as steam in a professional oven.
Cool the bread thoroughly on a rack.
Never put bread in plastic bags or clingfilm. If you need to wrap it, use greaseproof paper.
Finally, make bread as often as you can. Once you have the recipe and rhythm, it's easy and delicious.