Reamer wanted -

[thelasershark]

Can anyone point me in the right direction.. I'm looking for a reamer, a tapered reamer about 8" in length approx 13mm to 25mm taper and preferably Morse taper #1 or #2 to use in the tailstock Anyone know of a supplier in the UK? thanks in advance.

 

[Spectric]

Cromwell tools, https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/cutting-tools/machine-reamers/c/390607

 

[Dalboy]

Also try Tracy Tools

 

[John Hall]

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/
plus plenty on EBay…

 

[deema]

I don’t think your going to find a reamer with that sort of taper, you will have to either make one or taper cut it.

 

[John Hall]

It does say approx sizes….if it’s for a tailstock, I guess it’s to repair an existing morse taper, but the mt1 or 2 is a bit confusing…it must be one or the other.
Trying to make one is beyond the average and probable advanced diy.ers capabilities I’m sure…
And why so long?..
more information…ie what’s it for would help

 

[J-G]

Can anyone point me in the right direction.. I'm looking for a reamer, a tapered reamer about 8" in length approx 13mm to 25mm taper and preferably Morse taper #1 or #2 to use in the tailstock Anyone know of a supplier in the UK? thanks in advance.

You've given either inaccurate or misleading information there. We can surmise what you actually want but the chances are that we'll all be wrong in some way.

As has been said you can easily find reamers to cut a Morse Taper 1 or 2 at various tool suppliers and even eBay but it is fairly clear that that is not what you want.

Morse Taper 1 and 2 are not the same taper per foot so a long reamer that could cut both 1 & 2 is not feasable.

I suspect that you want a reamer to cut a tapered hole 13mm at the small end, 25mm at the large end and (?? mixed dimension standards ??) 8" long - with either anMT1 or MT2 shank - - - but I'm guessing.

I my guess is correct then you might as well search for Rocking Horse manure - - -

 

[John Hall]

Exactly….what are you trying to do?

 

[thelasershark]

Ok, i'll try to make it more clear. either an MT1 or MT2 shank so that it will fit in my tailstock.
Then approx 200mm long starting at about 25mm at the morse taper end, down to about 10-13mm at the tip.

It is for hollowing out the inside of wooden handbrake sleeve covers that I want to make for classic VW vans

I will probably end up having to turn the taper myself and then cut 2 slots down the sides and put some sort of blade in. Necessity being the mother of invention

 

[Ttrees]

Maybe a cello reamer?
Dicktum sell a few but are eye wateringly expenisve.
I'd sooner buy a cross slide for making a compound cut.

Tom

 

[John Hall]

Make a 3D tapered plastic insert that fits inside the wood

 

[Richard_C]

It is for hollowing out the inside of wooden handbrake sleeve covers that I want to make for classic VW vans

So does it need to be tapered? A simple solution would be stepped,
bore 25mm for about 1/3 of the length, 18 ish almost to the end then 13 for the last bit. Or similar, 4 steps maybe. There would be hidden gaps but if the spacing is right it would still feel like a snug fit.

 

[dickm]

IF you have a metalworking lathe, have a look at one of Sparey's books on metalworking. He has some simple designs for taper reamers, if I remember correctly. As I'm guessing the 8" long taper doesn't have to be accurate to a few thou, this should work.

 

[thelasershark]

So does it need to be tapered? A simple solution would be stepped,
bore 25mm for about 1/3 of the length, 18 ish almost to the end then 13 for the last bit. Or similar, 4 steps maybe. There would be hidden gaps but if the spacing is right it would still feel like a snug fit.

Weirdly, the handbrake lever metal part on a T4 is like a triangular cone shape (probably is a mathematical description of the shape but I don't know it) Steps could possibly work if spaced right. might have to try it and see.

 

[thelasershark]

IF you have a metalworking lathe, have a look at one of Sparey's books on metalworking. He has some simple designs for taper reamers, if I remember correctly. As I'm guessing the 8" long taper doesn't have to be accurate to a few thou, this should work.

Yes have an Atlas metalworking lathe so will have a look into that, thanks!

 

[Housey210]

traceytools

 

[J-G]

traceytools

They are good at carrying 'Odd ball' cutters but I doubt even they'll have such a beast.

If you decide to make one from a 12" length of 1" Ø Steel - or 300mm of 26mm Ø - then you would need to be able to have 200mm+ travel on your top-slide set at 1.718° but also 75mm travel in the oposite direction set at 1.432096° (this later to cut an MT2 shank).

If you can manage 200mm travel, then I would suggest that you buy a Morse Taper #2 'Blank' which you could find a way to fix to a 200+ mm long bar on which you had cut the 1.718° taper.

The chance that you would cut an MT2 taper that would really fit is slim.

Should you decide to take the 'stepped' route then you need to increase the diameter by 1mm every 16.66667mm of length.

 

[Richard_C]

Weirdly, the handbrake lever metal p

Ah, you said classic VW, I hadn't really thought of the T4 as a classic. Engine in wrong place and cooled by water.

 

[thelasershark]

Ah, you said classic VW, I hadn't really thought of the T4 as a classic. Engine in wrong place and cooled by water.

Just an example. My dream is a splitty but unfortunately don't have splitty money. I have a 30 yr old t4 that I am about to restore and convert to a camper.......... when I can get the time.... it's only been sat on the driveway for 4 years so far!

 

[Inspector]

If the tailstock of your Atlas can be offset enough you can cut the tapers by centre drilling the ends then cutting one end at a time by turning between centres, offsetting the tailstock to get the taper you want.

If the tailstock doesn't offset enough you do the same as the above except you use a boring head (usually used in milling machines) with a conical centre in place of a boring bar, offsetting what you need for the tapers.

Once you have made your blank you could cut and silver braze HSS blades to it like you were thinking. Or if the amount you want to ream is minimal (or you step drill the hole first) you could cut the long taper to make a D bit. You'll have to harden the tool so the cutting edge holds up.

Never done any of the above myself but in theory it works perfectly.

Pete