radial arm saw

[neilyweely]

hello all
Ok, so I bit the bullet and coughed up for a RAS last night. It is a B & D 890, which is, of course, a de walt dressed up. Since I have limited experience with these machines I am looking for a bit of advice.

I have heard it said that this is a tool i can use instead of the table saw, but can I really let it go and rip large timbers with the RAS? I really doubt it. More importantly is the fact that I have found, and bid on, a kinda spindle moulder attachment which, I understand attaches straight to the saw motor and does not need a router hanging off it. I know there is a fitting to allow the de walt router to be fitted instead of the saw motor, but the part I have bid on looks as if it fits on to the saws motor itself. I have watched a you tube vid of some fella raising panels on such a set up, and it looked as if it worked well.

So my questions are basically this ; Is the RAS able to perform functions as well as a table saw, or should I keep both. Space is an issue, but I could possibly fit both of 'em in. And should I stick with the router table for panel raising or is the RAS a reasonable option. I am about to make my own kitchen out of solid oak, and would like to have options on the manufacturing process, if possible.

So, any experts out there, please help. I don't fancy getting it wrong with this one, may cost more than money, eh?

Thanks folks

Neil

Ps paid 77quid for the saw, ok at this price? working well, and all there.

 

[Sawdust]

I have both and really don't think the RAS is a table saw replacement. Ripping on the RAS is an absolute nightmare so I just use it as crosscut saw.

The other thing I find it really useful for is tenoning.

I don't have moulding head or dado cutter so I can't comment on any such accessories.

Cheers
Mike

 

[mailee]

I agree with Mike, it is a nightmare using a RAS for ripping. They are also under powered for this purpose too and it is all too easy to stall the motor. I have both and only use the RAS for cross cutting. I have seen the moulding head used although never used one myself and it seems to work fine. I find mine very uselful for cutting half laps or small rebates. HTH. :wink:

 

[OPJ]

I agree with the points mentioned above. I can't find a video for it on YoutTube, but if you were able to see (and hear!) a radial arm saw being used to rip timber then you'd realise what a frightening operation this can be!! :shock:

 

[ivan]

Agreed, wouldn't rip treewood on mine, use the bandsaw instead. But a very long 8' table/fence plus roller extension allows me to dimension single handed 8x4 sheets I couldn't do otherwise. Have a look here:
http://www.mrsawdust.com/
This bloke was really Mr Dewalt in the US, and his book is worth a lot more than B&D's.

 

[Anonymous]

I rip on my Dewalt 8081 RAS all the time. Right blade, sharp blade and machine correctly adjusted I have no trouble at all and, no kick backs.

 

[Streepips]

I have to agree with MDF Haka,although I don`t use my RAS now for ripping I used to do and never had any problem, apart from it being a slow job because of the low powered motor ( 1.1 HP I believe)
Correct setup and sharp blade work wonders.
I have straightened up waney edge sycamore and English oak this way,with a straight lat pinned the the underside of the piece to run against the table edge, and taken slowly proves no problem.
The kickback pawls on the solid metal blade guard are failsafe if set up right and the feed rate is determined by the feedback note of the motor. Even a cut halfway through then a second cut full depth if necessary
This function was invaluable to me at the time and was leagues ahead of my previous practice of sawing by hand.
My favourite rip function on the RAS was for half round reeded columns, way easier than any router set up and much quicker.
I got a table saw and disposed of the RAS but within 6 months had bought another newer RAS.. Each machine has its individual virtues and I would not be without a RAS

 

[neilyweely]

ok folks, as I feared I don't think I shall be ripping on it. I do have a table saw, so I guess it makes sense to use the TS for ripping and the RAS for tenoning and coss cuts. I have a couple of sliding mitre saws, can I get rid of these now? Are they going to be vanquished by the RAS, or does the set up time of the RAS mean the SMCS is worth keeping?

The fella I got the RAS off has set the fence right back as far as it will go, which I thought meant he had used it for ripping. I will have to drag it forwards, won't I? I mean, there is no way to cross cut by taking the saw blade back into the timber, is there? Surely not. I guess I need to set the fence just in front of the blade when it is in its resting position, so I can start the motor and bring it into the wood. Right?
Thanks all, for your expert advice as usual.

Cheers, am off to cut some boxing in for pipes today. GREAT! Just what I spent four years studying carpentry and joinery for!

See y'all soon

Neil

 

[OPJ]

If you find one of your SCMS's to be accurate enough for mitre and compound cuts then I'd say hang on to it as it'll save you having to adjust and re-align the RAS - not as easy!

I can't think why else this guy would want to set the fence so far back unless he was using it for ripping or sanding... In its resting position, any RAS shoud always be safely behind the fence!

 

[neilyweely]

OPJ
You are right mate, that is exactly what I thought he musta been doing.
I am not sure about RAS's, they seem to be a bit of a disaster waiting to happen. I am sure I didn't get this many warnings before using the SCMS!!!
Still, I shall move the fence forward and give it a go. Any advice on dust collection? It seems to throw a lot of crap out, and whilst it has a port for an extractor to fit I am sure I remember seeing a couple with just a pile of dust sitting behind it. Is it worth rigging up the extractor, or do they not work so well with a RAS?
Thanks mate, and check out my other thread from today about the jointmaster gadget. Amazing!!!
See y'all soon.

Neil

 

[woodbloke]

Don't want to be a fly in t'ointment or anything but if space is limited then a RAS or SCMS are two bits of kit that wouldn't be on my 'must have' list. A decent well sharpened and set up hand saw does all my cross cutting (rough cross-cutting to length of boards and sheet material) and all I wouldn't ever use the SCMS even if I had one as I think they're overrated for stand alone 'shop use (not accurate enough for me either) and take up a lot of valuable space...fantastic though as a portable site tool. There are other ways and means of tacking all the jobs in the workshop that these two tools are supposed to do. Just my two euros worth - Rob

 

[OPJ]

Neil, I reckon your likely to find the dust ends up everywhere no matter what you try, but some extraction is better than none at all! You're probably best trying to build some kind of box-construction behind the blade with an outlet to connect to your extractor.

Rob, all valid points, but some of us can't resist big toys like these!! :twisted: :wink:

 

[neilyweely]

got the dust extraction today, to me this is responsible. I mean, its not 'fun' is it? Could have spent that money on a saw, or a nail gun or something!!! So i will try and do as you say OPJ, and set up some sort of box at the back of the saw.

And for what it's worth OPJ I am with you. I cannot leave the tools alone. Jeez, I wish I could. We are moving to a new house with a workshop out back, and I have been buying a 'few' bits to complete the workshop. Trouble is I don't have a workshop yet, only a kitchen. Yeah, the Mrs LOVES it! not. We have a RAS instead of a kitchen table!!

Cheers for the help guys.

Neil

 

[DaveL]

We have a RAS instead of a kitchen table!!

So the bread is cut nice and straight. :twisted: :wink: