Quarter round bathroom sink cabinet

[Chrispy]

So now all the parts are made it a matter of fitting it all together, the carcase is dry biscuit jointed and screwed as I want to take it all apart for painting.


There seems to be another big gap in the pictures, as there was a lot of fitting and trimming to get the doors to fit with nice break lines and edges at the correct angles.


When happy that the doors fit and close flush I jointed the side panels to the back panels this I did glue as didn't want screws there, but made sure the glue wasn't going to spread to the top and bottom panels hence the masking tape.
On this last picture you can see that the top and bottom panels are cut back where the doors close this is to make sure they don't bind.



Last picture has the plinth trimmed to size and tested for fit.

Now to take it all apart again for painting.

 

[Cabinetman]

Very different to the sort of furniture I make, but obviously there are a whole lot of skills extra that have to be learned, I’m finding this fascinating thank you, not that I’m likely to want to take it up!
Ian

 

[Chrispy]

On the home straight now, after taking it all apart and everything has had a good sanding and the corners softened off it's on to the drying rack ready for painting.

After a first of two primer/undercoats



Seeing as the primer is white and the top coat is white I won't bore you with lots of white paint pictures, but the process is first coat of primer both sides then denibbed, second primer very lightly denibbed if needed then two top coats of semi matt lacquer.

Next day start the re-assembly, no glue as I don't think it needs any.

You may have noted these are not quite your normal kitchen door hinges, they are a blind corner hinge with a very narrow back plate so the door and the panel it's hung on are both in the same plane, albeit a bit curved.

When fixing hinges I like to use nickel plated raised head screws to match the hinges.


The bottom hinge on each door gets a soft closer fitted, but because of the curved inner face of the door I have cutaway the back to match.

Can you see even after all that painting the laminations are telegraphing through.

Soft rubber bumpers fitted into pre-drilled holes


Running out of photo allowance.

 

[Chrispy]

Because of the shape of this unit the shelves become a bit unstable, they tend to tip up with weight on the front edge so I fitted it with shelf retainers.
Basically a support that fits above the shelf to stop it lifting, you do have to space the holes right for the thickness of shelf though.



And finally with handles fitted.


I hope you have found this both interesting and helpful.
Happy to answer any questions.

 

[Sachakins]

That's been a great journey with this build. Thank you for your time and effort to document it.
Beautifully crafted

 

[Cabinetman]

Hi, you say painting? The semi Matt lacquer, I’ve never used it, is it a two part mix?

 

[Chrispy]

Now that construction and formers are an art form in their own right.
Amazing not to get any spring back
Thanks for taking time and effort to photo and document this.

The plinth had no spring back at all but then the material was so bendy it was no surprise, but the door panels there was a bit, I'm trying out a formula that I have come up with, it goes like this thickness x number of layers divided by the radius of bend = the amount of spring back, so as example 18mm thick x 6 laminations / 500mm radius = 4.6mm so reduce the radius of the former by 4.6mm to allow for spring back.
Don't quote me on that but as a theory it seems to work so far.

 

[Chrispy]

Hi, you say painting? The semi Matt lacquer, I’ve never used it, is it a two part mix?

Yes it's a sprayed finish, in two parts the pigmented lacquer and an acid catalyst. no idea what the resin is but it uses a cellulose based thinner, you really do need to spray it as it drys to fast to brush or roll, and you need extraction for the fumes so not something to use at home.