Push blocks

[Niki]

Good day

I saw those push blocks on the Internet and I liked them so I decided to make them.

The sanding block in the pictures is 100 x 210 mm and is used by the builders to sand the walls before painting, so look around the building supply shops. They cost here around 1 Pound (6 Zloty).

The self-gluing anti-skid tape is used in the bath tab to avoid skidding but as you know, you can use #60 or #40 sanding paper instead.

Pictures removed due to safety reasons

Regards
niki

 

[mahking51]

Niki,
Love the one with the wheel, what a great idea!
Regards
Martin

 

[stairman]

while still having All my fingers I would have concerns about using the one where your hand is direcly above the blade

But I also like the wheel one

Thanks for the photos and ideas

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Great idea Niki. Thanks for another great description.

With no intent to hijack Niki's thread, here's another example of the differences in what would be consider safe practice (or acceptably safe practice)

Niki's push block is similar to the GRRR-Ripper from Microjig sold here in the US. They are quite handy. I've got a pair of them and find them very useful. I gather there'd be no market in the UK for these, though.

 

[Niki]

Thank you for the comments

Stairman
You are correct that to put the hand over the blade is not "healthy".

I was thinking (that's news), maybe its better to screw it to larger plate, on one side of the plate, then, you can use it when your hand is on the left side of the blade or, turn it 180 and use it when your hand is on the right side of the blade, depends on the width you are going to cut.

Dave R
As I can see, in the commercial one, the hand is still over the blade.

niki

 

[stairman]

I work on a policy of if it don't feel safe don't do it

was showing my brother how to cut wedges on a C saw then band him from cutting them. He queried as to why as he felt safe, my ancere was I did not feel safe with him cutting them

I have a lot of respect for high speed cutting edges (when 20 I put my thumb into a C saw on two ocations don't think I will be lucky enough to keep it the next time)

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Dave R
As I can see, in the commercial one, the hand is still over the blade.

Niki, that is correct. Since the blade passes under the the push block the user's fingers aren't in danger of contacting the blade. The only danger might be if a carbide tooth left the blade but it's trajectory would be anyone's guess

 

[Losos]

Niki - Great ideas, especially the wheeled one. Currently I'm only using the push stick which came with my saw, I've had a few pieces start to 'lift' which was a bit scary & I must make something better.

Dave - IIRC the Grrrrripper was reviewed in one of the UK magazines about two years back & I think I've seen them for sale 'tho I suppose they wouldn't be allowed in a commercial 'shop.

 

[Alf]

Since the blade passes under the the push block the user's fingers aren't in danger of contacting the blade. The only danger might be if a carbide tooth left the blade but it's trajectory would be anyone's guess

There also doesn't appear to be any means of guarding the blade as it exits the work?

Cheers, Alf

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Niki for your suggestions, and the pusher or pressure pad, the one with the wheel has possibilities.

But I would not be happy myself with the clamping hold down situation you are showing. Those F shape clamps are known to fail on grip sometimes and the thought of your pressure bar and wheel hitting a revolving blade could mean that the contraption could fly back at you at great speed.

The Triton system has a pressure finger which is fastened and held in position to the mitre bar channel.

Please accept any criticism from me only as one of the worrying type.

 

[Scrit]

As I can see, in the commercial one, the hand is still over the blade.

Maybe so, but that's an American item and would not be acceptable in a training workshop or a commercial shop anywhere in Europe. The rule of thumb is that your hands should never be nearer to a blade than 300mm. In any case you show it being used on a saw without a crown guard - another dangerous no-no.

The wheel is an interesting variation on the old featherboard idea and looks similar to some of the safety stuff sold by Aigner (an also available under the Felder brand name as well)

Scrit

 

[Niki]

Thank you all for the replies

I do accept the criticism and even I was concerned about the hand over the blade that's why I suggested the wider version that is also not so safe.

Anyway, this push block is acceptable in the American market but not in the EU market.

If so, why the EU TS's manufacturers are lying us with this "80 mm depth of cut" while the usable depth of cut is some 20 mm less because of the blade guard

Regards
niki

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Scrit, FWIW those images are from the manufacturer's site.

 

[Scrit]

Scrit, FWIW those images are from the manufacturer's site.

I think that they highlight the relative differences in what is regarded as acceptable or safe practice in the two parts of the world. The way we train wood machinists here is to say no hand nearer that 300mm to the blade ion the horizontal plane, or 450mm if using an angled push stick..... Oh and blade guarded from above at all times. But I'm sure that most people know that.

Scrit

 

[Niki]

Good day

Today I went to the garage and made a few tests with the push block and:

1. I felt very uncomfortable when my hand was extended over the unguarded blade.

2. I did not get any kick back but it looks like the possibility is very high.

3. There was no even one operation that I could not accomplish with the traditional push stick/shoe and feather board (or roller) in much safer way than using this push block.

Conclusion:
Don't buy it and don't make it

Project: Deleted

niki

 

[devonwoody]

Niki, you sound to me like an honest man.

 

[Scrit]

If so, why the EU TS's manufacturers are lying us with this "80 mm depth of cut" while the usable depth of cut is some 20 mm less because of the blade guard

You'll get 80mm depth of cut if you use an overhead crown (SUVA) guard like this one for the Scheppach:

(or take the crown guard off ). Pity is they don't make this obvious to prospective purchasers

Scrit

 

[devonwoody]

Very pricy though for that extra 25mm?

 

[Niki]

Devonwoody
In my x-profession, honesty was the key word. If you (not you, but generally) made a mistake, admit it otherwise, it can lead to much bigger problem.
Although I am not working already 5 years, habits remain...

Scrit
I think that they have to sell a complete system or tell you the truth otherwise, the are pushing somebody like me to remove the guard to get the 80 mm if I don't want or cannot by an overhead guard.

Well, we both know that it will not help, if they want to sell they will not lie but they will not tell all the truth. Its like the HP (in USA), you can measure it in a few ways and give the best one.

We are lucky that in the EU they give us the Watt, but still, we don't get any information about the motor efficiency that can be 50%~85% so we can never know the real HP.

niki

 

[devonwoody]

With regard to 80mm, one of the manuals I read wrote that if I exceeded 40% of the 80mm I invalidated my guarantee, cant remember which manual I saw that reading though!