preparing wavey edge board

[devonwoody]

Got some sycamore coming with wavey edges. ( 3" thick)

Has anyone used a router and a straight edge to create a board that is then suitable to use on a tablesaw?

And how?

 

[MikeG.]

Why not just clamp a straight edge to the board as a guide for a hand-held circular saw?

Mike

PS.......surely "wany" (waney???sp) rather than wavey (wavy)?

 

[marcus]

IMO the simplest thing would be to screw a piece of timber or plywood which has a a straight edge to the timber, and use that against the fence of the table saw.

Cheers

Marcus

 

[devonwoody]

Yes to above, (also waney)

The sycamore arrived around 10 minutes after posting :lol:

Its 8ft long and 3"thick upto 11" wide and I cannot lift it.

the question arose because I had the usual Fine woodwork email this morning with an article using router to obtain straight edge. However it would not open for me and I could not find anything on You Tube, so I posted as above.

I shall request assistance from one of my younger neighbours (holding a crosscut saw in my hand ) requesting a lift on to some tressels so I can reduce the length and weight.

 

[devonwoody]

The before picture.
A length of sycamore and a small piece of American cherry, ordered from Stig, at Whitmores, Monday, delivered 9ish A.M. Wednesday.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I cannot lift it.

You need to eat more spinach, DW :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Tried both Mike's and Marcus's way and both work very well. Mike's is preferable if screw holes might be an issue

 

[Harbo]

For long lengths I use the circular saw technique - for more managable pieces I use a jig on my T/S.
If it's not too wany I use the T/S fence and cut twice.

Lets hope the Router method will not be an exposed cutter working against a fence? :shock:

Rod

 

[Argus]

.


At 3" thick I would expect some movement or twist as you start to re-saw it as it's unlikely to be at the same MC throughout, however well it's dried.


.

 

[devonwoody]

Reduced it down to 3 lenghts this afternoon, using a circular saw and three cross cuts to get through.

~Will resaw some bits tomorrow.

 

[OPJ]

At 3" thick I would expect some movement or twist as you start to re-saw it as it's unlikely to be at the same MC throughout, however well it's dried.

That's exactly what I found while ripping down some 3" thick beech the other week. I had to switch the saw off, back it up a bit, and drive a couple of wedges in to keep the kerf open before I could continue, several times as well. :x

Even with decent table saw, I would never have been able to do all that and manage a lump like this over the saw on my own!

I'm using a straight edge but, I'm also working off the wrong side of the saw really, as the narrow section of the base gives very little support... This is only because I could find a straight edge that was long and narrow enough to fit under the motor housing! :roll: Something to do with having plenty of MDF but now table saw to rip a straight and true edge... I don't think I could get to my planer at the time because of all the wood stacked in the way!

 

[devonwoody]

That was a big lump to lift up.

 

[DMD]

I manage to cut these slabs on my bandsaw with some roller stands and a new blade.

 

[The_Stig]

That was a big lump to lift up.

I saw the board before it left the yard and two big blokes lifted it off the stack

 

[devonwoody]

That was a big lump to lift up.

I saw the board before it left the yard and two big blokes lifted it off the stack

I should think the same two blokes lifted my piece as well.
What do you feed them on?

 

[devonwoody]

BTW Stig, the 1 1/2 cubic ft of Sycamore has resawn up very nicely.

What MC do you reckon it was when it left your works?

Anyone want the other half of this board of Sycamore I recommend you contact above, its worth having.

 

[Tim Nott]

I'm using a straight edge but, I'm also working off the wrong side of the saw really, as the narrow section of the base gives very little support... This is only because I could find a straight edge that was long and narrow enough to fit under the motor housing! :roll: Something to do with having plenty of MDF but now table saw to rip a straight and true edge... I don't think I could get to my planer at the time because of all the wood stacked in the way!

I cracked this some time ago with a purpose made straight edge, having previously used a builder's aluminium 3 metre edge.

Get two pieces of 10mm ply, one around 20cm wide and one x+1cm(ish) wider, where x is the distance from the far edge of the circular saw sole to the blade. Gluse /screw them together so two edges are flush, so you have x+1cm(ish) sticking out. Run the saw in the rebate so formed to chop of the extra 1cm(ish). You can then clamp the straight edge so the newly-cut edge is on the line of the timber you want to cut, then whizz through with the circular saw.