Precast concrete double garage - workshop setup

[BareBear]

We moved house just after I got my new single garage workshop set up. It cost approximately £8k to buy my new loglap garage, floor, line, insulate, power and equipment it. I was beaming with pride and happiness at having my own space then the wife saw “the perfect property just round the corner”, and I need to start all over again.

This time, I will have a bigger space, but my first hurdle is to work out how I’m going to deal with a precast concrete walled garage. I assume I can’t drill into it so I need to work out how to insulate, ventilate, and set up benches and wall storage.

Are there any fellow home workshop owners who have set up a workshop in one of these Marley type garages?

 

[Jameshow]

Can you use coach screws through the sealant joints into some 2x2?
A dab of sealant before you finally tighten.

 

[BareBear]

What are the sealant joints? Is that the vertical flanges up the sides of each panel? They have a hole at the bottom and top for fixing together but I’m not keen on loosening those?

This guy used those fixing holes but I’m not sure if I want to go down that route.

 

[Jameshow]

It was a good decade ago since I had one but mine had carriage bolts inside holding each section together but then sealant between each section...
I was thinking of a coach screw through this sealant outside in, into same 2x2 then insulate and ply board over the top.

 

[chestnut]

Do you need to fix anything to the concrete ? You could build a free standing structure inside the concrete walls, each "wall" just wedged in position until the others are there to support it.. Here in France I would use the steel channels that are sold for dry lining with the insulation set in the channels. Something similar in wood should be possible.

I did something like that in my stone built barn, using moisture resistant chipboard rather than ply as the inner surface, it's cheaper than ply and just as practical to fix to. (The joist on top in this picture was because I had the headroom to add a mezanine).

 

[okeydokey]

The concrete structure is solid and each section helps support its neighbour.
The bolts will be rusted remove one at a time and fit a galvanised L bracket then fit timber to the part of the L thats inside and parallel to the wall.
Fit new bolts as you go and get rid of the rusty ones.

 

[Ozi]

I have one I use as a store shed not a workshop so not as worried about minor dampness, I have glued some insulation directly to the concrete as I had some foam available free, that and a forty W tube heater were adequate for my purposes just to keep frost at bay. It is possible to drill into the wall sections but not easy as I found out when replacing the roof, If you take any substantial part of the roof off the whole structure becomes frighteningly unstable then lifting roof trusses onto it and securing single handed as the wind gets up and the walls start to wobble becomes extremely entertaining (do not ask me how I know). If I was converting to a workshop I would go down the same route (excluding roof removal) stick insulation directly to the concrete panel with shuttering ply, stuck in place until wedged as Chestnut describes. I would definitely put something on the floor

Lots of different choices at a range of prices, I'm looking for something similar for my workshop but haven't decided which if any of above are suitable yet. Once insulated a tube heater at each end on a thermostat should keep all dry and snug. The 40 W I use just about keeps off frost but the insulation is far from complete and the window is single skin acrylic, you should be able to do far better without breaking the bank.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

Have you considered simply gluing the boards to the concrete structure - in much the same way as you may glue wooden flooring to a concrete base - cartridge - Stick like sh...

If you are concerned about its longevity, you could glue battens alongside the existing concrete uprights. Leave a few weeks and apply the hammer and screwdriver test to ensure rigidity. Then screw panels to the battens.

This would allow wiring and insulation to be fitted behind the panels (OSB may be more moisture resistant than chipboard). As the panels are screwed not glued, they can be removed in the future for any remedial work or upgrades.

 

[Sachakins]

Have a read here...
https://www.lidget.co.uk/concrete-garage-insulation-lining/

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Gripfil to hold stud work to the wall then board out with shuttering ply

 

[BareBear]

Thanks. There’s a fair amount of information here! I may look at replacing the existing bolts holding the panels together with screwed rods and installing battens. I’m going to put shelves up at various points but nothing of any significance will be on the shelves. Small tools, chargers, etc.

I may look into some sort of hybrid. I could use the battens on one wall and glue sheets of ply straight onto the other walls. That would give me one wall to fix things to and allow me to use free standing storage near the other walls. That may be quite flexible actually.

 

[Jameshow]

Thanks. There’s a fair amount of information here! I may look at replacing the existing bolts holding the panels together with screwed rods and installing battens. I’m going to put shelves up at various points but nothing of any significance will be on the shelves. Small tools, chargers, etc.

I may look into some sort of hybrid. I could use the battens on one wall and glue sheets of ply straight onto the other walls. That would give me one wall to fix things to and allow me to use free standing storage near the other walls. That may be quite flexible actually.

Gluing ply onto concrete will give you cold spots, better to cross batten and insulate then ply.

Also ebt+ or similar polymer based glue will be better than gripfill or similar glue

 

[Sachakins]

Never underestimate what will go on your shelving. A few tools, chargers, batteries the odd 14lb sledge Hammer and a few 10lt tubs of emulsion.
You will be surprised how quickly it mounts up

 

[BareBear]

I’m going to start by insulating the ceiling and need to batten it then install foil backed PIR in between. I’m not going to sheet underneath the batten/PIR.

I wonder what your opinion is on fixing the battens across the concrete lentils that run left to right as you look in from the front.

The original roof is corrugated asbestos sheets tied to the concrete lintels with metal brackets. There is a newer outer skin of corrugated metal sheet on top.

I don’t want to drill into the lintels so do you have any thoughts on what I could use to tie the battens to the underside?

See pics attached.

 

[Jameshow]

I'd be tempted to use builders band a flexible steel tie with holes in it and wrap it round and screw into wood. Perhaps use some tube glue to hold as well?

 

[BareBear]

I'd be tempted to use builders band a flexible steel tie with holes in it and wrap it round and screw into wood. Perhaps use some tube glue to hold as well?

I had thought that and also thought about stainless steel cable ties with a gun.

I’d need a prop with the builders band but not with the cable ties.

Thanks for the suggestion. It is good to hear you confirm my train of thought.

 

[Sachakins]

I'd use these, stronger than cable ties. Cut to length jubilee clip

 

[Jameshow]

I had thought that and also thought about stainless steel cable ties with a gun.

I’d need a prop with the builders band but not with the cable ties.

Thanks for the suggestion. It is good to hear you confirm my train of thought.

What a prop wit the builders band??

 

[Keith 66]

My workshop is a precast concrete panel job, First forget about trying to drill between the panels, all you will do is ruin the seals & make it leak. You will need to sort out the panel to ground seal & i wirebrushed everything blew out with compressed air & dried with hot airgun before a new mastic seal with Arbokol 1000 polysuphide goop. No leaks! Drilling into the thicker edges of the panels is virtually impossible as you Will hit steel reinforcing & bugger up your masonry drill. You can put holes through the thin part of the panel but the drill will burst out the back side & spall a big crater in the concrete. I insulated the recesses in the panels with 35mm celotex & lined out with 6mm exterior ply, these were nailed to the wall plate at the top & simply stuck on with gripfill. Try getting it off a year later!
Shelf brackets hang from the wall plate as does Lin bin racking held back with tek screws lower down.
Steel bench legs are bolted to the floor. Original asbestos roof was replaced with Insulated steel sheet & all purlins etc were replaced & beefed up.
Its now fully insulated, cool in summer, toasty warm in winter.
Took a while to get right but was well worth it.

 

[BareBear]

What a prop wit the builders band??

Well, a stick to hold it up while I fix the batten. I suppose I need that with whatever fixing technique I use. The beauty of working by yourself. The battens are 4.8m going up there.